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Interior Painting Advice

Ryan1 | Posted in General Discussion on November 21, 2008 08:29am

I haven’t done any painting in a long while and I’m looking for some advice about paint and paint rollers.

My walls are smooth sheetrock, no knock-down or anything like that, and are currently covered in BM navajo white. Only about 5 years old. No need to re-prime right? We are looking at going to a lighter green color in an eggshell for the walls.

I have BM, SW and Porter stores close by, any recommendations or things to steer clear of? Seems like I read some maybe not so good things about BM Aura here a while back?

Also, what about roller covers? How much of a nap would be used for covering sheetrock? I’m assuming roller covers are not something cheap out on, right?

Any tips, tricks, or other advice is much appreciated.

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Replies

  1. Mooney | Nov 21, 2008 09:08pm | #1

    No primer .

    TSP is used to clean walls .

    SW is a good store to go to for advise as they train their employees  to help. 80 per cent of their business is contractor driven so they are known as a pro store which makes their knowledge valuable to someone that needs it .

    I can answer your questions but they can too.

    Tim

     



    Edited 11/21/2008 1:08 pm by Mooney

    1. Ryan1 | Nov 21, 2008 09:48pm | #4

      Thanks Tim. I was wondering about the use of TSP. This room is a spare bedroom that has never been used, so there's not much to clean.I'll make a trip to the SW store and see what they say about roller nap.As a side note, I was reading Consumer Reports latest paint ratings a few days ago and they were really fond of Kilz paint from Wally world and it was only $20 a gallon.I think they rated it above BM, SW, and others in maybe a couple categories. Kinda hard to believe. Not sure if I buy it.

  2. Harry the Horse | Nov 21, 2008 09:41pm | #2

    Haven't tried the new Aura. I always had bad luck with BM Aquavelvet (their eggshell) especially over spots where I had spackled or put durabond...those spots first had to be spot primed with Bullseye or similar--which isn't a bad idea anyway especially with an eggshell or satin otherwise the spot will look blotchy. I swear by Muralo's Ultra Waterborne Eggshell although Pratt & Lambert's was a favorite before that. Haven't used enough SW to have an opinion. Behr always gets a good rating in Consumer Reports but I've never understood why--I've never liked it much. Just some thoughts...

    1. NAGIV | Nov 21, 2008 09:50pm | #5

      Behr Blows...

      The one time I've used it it ran like water.

  3. NAGIV | Nov 21, 2008 09:48pm | #3

    I'd lightly sand the walls, not spending a lot of time but scuff them up, wash down with a TSP, caulk the trim & spackle old nail holes if need be and then paint.

    I like Ben Moore paint myself, there Super-Spec line is our standard paint, their Regal is a little better and they have a new Product called Aura which I have used but it's supposed to be the new "best paint ever"  It better be at around $50/gallon.

    If you're walls are smooth I'd use a 3/8" nap roller, cut in first and then roll to the cut ins.  You don't need the most expensive roller but don't buy the most expensive either.  If you need to go back to painting the next day, wrap the wet roller in a plastic bag and put it in the refigerator, take it out an hour or so before you need it.

      Two coats will look better then one, which is where Aura comes in, it's supposed to be a true one coat paint.  If it is, it would actually be cheaper then two coats of other paint.

    1. Ryan1 | Nov 21, 2008 09:59pm | #6

      Thanks to you guys for the replies. Another question, for an 11' x 11' bedroom having all 4 walls painted, how many gallons would you need for 2 coats + some leftover for touch-ups later on? This is going to be a nursery and I'm sure the little guy will eventually beat the walls up a little, so I'm figuring on some touch-ups later down the road.

      1. NAGIV | Nov 21, 2008 10:49pm | #7

        Typically with paint you'll get around 350 sqft of coverage or so.  Cans claim around 400 sqft I believe. 

        You should be good with 2 gallons of paint.  Take both gallons and mix them together into a 5gallon bucket.  It will help make sure it all comes out the same color.   You should get a roller screen to sit in the bucket and paint out of the 5 gallon bucket.

        Forget a roller pan. 

        For the left over, you might want to buy an empty quart can to put it in so it's easy to store.

         

        1. Ryan1 | Nov 21, 2008 11:37pm | #8

          Thanks. I really appreciate it.

        2. rasher | Nov 22, 2008 01:41am | #14

          This might be off-topic, but if you have a roller screen to go in your 5-gallon bucket, do you need to clean it off after using it, or can you just let the paint dry and then use it in some different color a few months later?

          1. NAGIV | Nov 22, 2008 02:40am | #19

            We rinse it off and let it dry, the paint that builds up doesnt hurt anything, eventually they get replaced with a new one when the screen holes are all filled up.

          2. rasher | Nov 22, 2008 02:45am | #20

            And the paint doesn't flake off into the new paint? Is that same with drill driven paint mixers?

    2. toddswenson | Nov 21, 2008 11:49pm | #9

      I'd strongly recommend BM Aura paint. I've used SW (builder grade) as well as BM Regal. Aura has several advantages: 1) low odor, really a lot better than any other I've tried; 2) ease of use; unlike other paints, you let the cut-ins dry 1-2 h before rolling out the rest of the wall. No brush in 1 hand, roller in the other juggling; 3) good coverage. Not quite 1 coat, but you can get away with spot touchups rather than a full 2nd coat, so the cost per room is about the same as with Regal, which brings me to 4) excellent blending between coats. Fresh paint blends really really well with the previous application, which is why you can do all your cutting in first before rolling. You do have to let it dry, though, before trying to recoat, because otherwise the roller will pick up the undried coat. Sounds more complicated than it is.

      1. bc | Nov 22, 2008 12:56am | #10

        im kinda facing a dilema. i dont feel like spending as much for benjamin moore paint. BM is the only brand that constanly "skins" ... this drives me crazy. i was just forced to use duron builders grade paint. at $13 a gallon is the best paint i have used for the money (dried crazy fast, low odor, very good coverage). even bm aura required 2 coats and to be honest it looked like it needed a third. There is now a porter paint store here and I never tried their product (although I hear they are good).I did like the SW cashmere (very smooth).Valspar @ lowes $20 a gallon is allright. BM super spec here costs 25-27 a gallon. thats a bit much.

        1. Ryan1 | Nov 22, 2008 01:13am | #11

          Do you mean the BM tends to "skin" over in the bucket? Or skin on the wall? Just curious.

          1. bc | Nov 22, 2008 01:42am | #15

            in the bucket. so you spend your time picking the paint off of the roller or the walls or even the tray...

  4. BoJangles | Nov 22, 2008 01:28am | #12

    TSP....2 coats BM Regal....3/8" nap Purdy roller.   Guaranteed to be easy to apply and beautiful results !

    1. Ryan1 | Nov 22, 2008 01:38am | #13

      I'm assuming BM Regal falls somewhere between Super Spec and Aura? Thanks for the help btw.

      1. BoJangles | Nov 22, 2008 01:45am | #16

        Yes,   Regal is great paint.  It dries slowly, so it's hard to leave roller marks if you watch what you are doing and feather out each roller full of paint.

        Go up and down the height of the wall.  Don't make silly zigs and zags like they show you on the home improvement shows.

        Start rolling away from what you have already applied and roll in to the wet paint.

        The first coat of cut in will not usually look good...but the second one will make it look perfect!  Feather the edge of the cut in with the tip of the brush.  (Purdy)

  5. bc | Nov 22, 2008 01:50am | #17

    when friends ask for advice. i tell them save your money and purchase the valspar at lowe's ( satin for instance has ceramic beads). so it will be easier to clean if you get a scuff mark down the road (you can use 409 and a towel and wipe off the marks). bm has this but only in their matte finish paints.

    Valspar dries at 1.5 mils. while benjamin moore aura is about 1.7 , regal about 1.5 and super spec about 1.3.

    if you need ceiling paint i only use bm ceiling white

    trim only use: satin impervo (latex).

    1. rasher | Nov 22, 2008 01:58am | #18

      I agree: BM Satin Impervo (White Dove for my house) is the best trim paint I've ever used. I use my cheapo Wagner Conversion-HVLP to shoot it on. Two coats over oil primer. It looks like a million bucks.

  6. DonCanDo | Nov 22, 2008 04:53am | #21

    I don't think TSP is necessary.  Just wipe down the walls with a damp rag and you should be fine.  No priming is necessary either.

    The B-M Aura excels at covering in fewer coats and it's also very washable, low odor and easy touch-up.  Unless I'm painting a dark color, I don't think the additional expense is justified.  My first choice is B-M Regal.  Sherwin Williams makes some good paint too, like their Cashmere line of paints.

    I've tried painting out of a bucket with a screen and I don't like it.  I do a lot of painting and a standard roller tray with a liner works for me.

    For one room, get a good roller cover, like the Purdy.  I use "economy" covers which is all I need, but I think the better covers are just a little easier to work with if you don't do a lot of painting.

    I normally use 3/8" nap covers unless I'm painting a sheen higher than eggshell (like semi-gloss).  In those cases, I prefer a shorter nap for a smoother finish.

  7. BenM | Nov 22, 2008 08:00pm | #22

    Here are a few guidelines which have helped me produce an excellent paint job.

    1. Paint does not hide defects, it accentuates them.  Fix any cracks or gouges before opening up the paint can.

    2. Use heavy duty drop cloths.  The lightweight ones allow paint to seep through, don't ask me how I know this.  Plastic drop cloths are for amateurs; they're slippery and don't stay in place.  Newspapers are for hacks.

    3. Use a good quality brush.  A lot of people don't because they don't know how to clean it.  Use a brush comb, about $2, and you can clean it in 1/3 the time and better.

    4. Use a painters light.  It really shows up the missed areas and defects.

    5. Don't paint out of the can.  I use a cup that has an internal lip to control how much paint stays on the brush and it doesn't drip down the outside of the cup onto everything else.  I let the paint dry in the cup after I am done and then it peels right off, ready for the next job.

    And remember, paint applied according to the manufacturer's instructions lasts six months, a drop on your shoe is forever.

    1. DonCanDo | Nov 22, 2008 08:46pm | #23

      5. Don't paint out of the can.

      I agree.  Painting out of the can is difficult and potentially messy, but I still see many people do it.  Perhaps the most important reason is because the paint in the can will start curing because of the long exposure to air.  Sometimes I'll paint out of a 2nd can that gets re-filled as I go, but that's different.

      Have you tried the Handy Paint Pail (http://www.handypaintpail.com/)?  It's really quite well designed and made.  I use the liners so there isn't even any cleanup.

      1. BenM | Nov 23, 2008 02:17am | #24

        That's exactly the paint cup I use and was describing.  The handle is designed so you can slide your hand flat between the handle and the cup, very comfortable.

        I don't dip the brush in the can to eliminate contamination.  I also should have mentioned I use a paint spout to pour the paint out of the can.  This keeps the lid recess clean and makes it easy to get a good seal when resealing the can.  Also keeps paint from dripping down the side of the can, less cleanup. 

        1. DonCanDo | Nov 23, 2008 04:24am | #26

          I also should have mentioned I use a paint spout to pour the paint out of the can.

          I've been called a very neat painter.  It's something I work hard at and am proud of, but you got me beat with the paint spouts.  I used to do that, but I find it faster to just pour from the can and clean up the rim with the brush.  I can get it pretty clean, but I'll bet your cans still look like they haven't even been opened.

          Since you seem about as fastidious as me, do you label your brushes?  I do.  I have my favorite ceiling, trim and wall brushes and I've labeled them that way.  It also makes it easier when switching colors to grab the right brush.  Of course, I have more than one of each so they're labeled something like "ceiling-2" or whatever strikes me at the moment.

          1. BenM | Nov 23, 2008 04:57am | #27

            I don't label my brushes but becoming neat about painting is what made painting enjoyable instead of something to be done as quickly as possible.  And you know what kind of job you get then.

          2. Huntdoctor | Nov 23, 2008 05:33am | #28

            Hey all,
            How do you clean your brushes and rollers.
            I use 3 mud buckets, 2 with water.
            For brushes I use a brush comb and spinner in bucket #1
            Bucket #2 I just spin then spin dry in empty bucket #3.
            For roller covers I scrape paint into roller tray using curved side of 5in1. In bucket #1 I scrape again and clean inside of cover, flip cover and scrape again then spin. Spin in bucket #2 and spin dry in empty bucket #3.
            I can clean a roller cover in less than 5 min. and reuse them many, many times.
            Works great for changing colors or for cleaning brush during large trim or striking jobs.
            I also like to soak my rollers and brushes in water and then spin them before I start using them for the day.
            Russell

          3. DonCanDo | Nov 23, 2008 03:29pm | #29

            I don't clean brushes at the job.  I bring them home where I feel like I can get them properly clean.  If a brush gets too gunked up during the day to continue using it, I bag it and get another.

            The brushes get cleaned in a bucket in a sink.  The first wash is warm water with TSP and a scrub brush to help remove the partially dried paint near the ferrule.  Subsequent rinses are just plain water until the rinse water is clean.  I don't spin them, but I may give them a shake to remove any excess water and then I hang them back in a bucket in the van to dry.  They seem to hold their shape pretty well this way.

            Roller covers just get tossed.  For less than $2 per cover, I don't think it's worth my time to clean them.  I've tried more expensive covers, but they don't work enough better to justify their cost and time to clean.

    2. BoJangles | Nov 23, 2008 03:02am | #25

      First off...are you Ben Moore....the paint guy???

      "Don't paint out of the can"   Good Advice!

      I prefer an oval shaped half gallon ice cream container.

      This has two advantages....it fits perfectly in your hand & you have to eat all of the ice cream out of it first before you can use it.

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