FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Interior plaster repair

oops | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 28, 2004 10:15am

Need some help please. Have been in the design/build business over 35years but have limited experience with lath & plaster interior finish. I’m in north central Texas area and this type construction has not been use for many, many years. This is my persosnal home. My wife’s father built in 1929.

 One crack over my bed (1/8″ max.) the full length of the room and an area along one wall where it looks like the ceiling has dropped down and inch or so for a distance of about 4′-0″. It looks like the finish has come lose from the ceiling joist right at the wall. The joist is still in place. I thought I would put a 2x under the area and against the wall and jack it back up to the joist. The question is how do I keep it there? This was caused by water damage when I hail storm took out the old valley flashing(orighinal).

Then I have a few hair line cracks over door and window header corners caused by the heavy clay soil we have in this part of the country. 

Would appreciate you council as to the best way to make these repairs. Preferably using material that I’m familiar with.  Thanks.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. csnow | Jan 28, 2004 11:10pm | #1

    Assuming you mean wood lathe.

    Typical ceiling contruction had lathe attached to strapping.

    A sagging section indicates that:

    A) The strapping is pulling away from the joists.

    B) The lathe is pulling away from the strapping.

    C) The plaster is seperating from the lathe.

    Ideally, you would be able to access from above, and determine the exact nature of the problem.

    For jacking, a 'T' made out of 2x6 [on flat] works well.  You can jack the 'T' up from the floor using a scissors, screw, or hydraulic jack.  Sometimes I use one of those jacks designed to prop up cabinets during install resting on a sawhorse.

    For securing, depends upon the problem.  Screws, obviously.  Plaster washers work well in general, though if you have problem "A" [above], big fender washers are up to taking on more weight.  I find that using a spade bit to create a small countersink first for the washers makes finishing easier.  They used to be hard to find, but HD actually sells plaster washers now.

    If the plaster is coming off the lathe, it can be very helpful to get behind it to vacuum away any broken 'keys' and other debris that may get in the way of setting the ceiling back in place.  Once done, you can apply glue to the area to consolidate the plaster, and help secure it to the lathe, prior to placing screws.  I use Weldbond or wood glue. Soaks in beautifully.

    Anyways, random solutions.  Hope one applies.

    1. Davo304 | Jan 29, 2004 09:43am | #2

      My home is a typical lath & plaster home...built around 1939. It is horse-hair plaster keyed into the wood lath. There is no strapping attched to the joists, rather the lath itself is nailed to the joists. I have seen this configuration many times over in my area ( Pittsburgh, PA region) and have yet to see strapping  used independently along with wooden lath.

      Davo

      1. csnow | Jan 29, 2004 07:11pm | #4

        "...and have yet to see strapping  used independently along with wooden lath."

        Perhaps it's a regional thing.  Common in New England.  Convenient for rewiring...

        1. Davo304 | Jan 30, 2004 09:50am | #5

          Probably is a regional thing with the strapping.

          You know what I would truly like to see? an old time professional lather...complete with hatchet...only tool a pro ever used..hack the lath with the hatchet blade, then nail it in place using the hammer end. A fellow who went to my church was a professional lather. He's dead now...was in his eighties...people who knew him well said he was a whiz-bang...could knock out an entire house in a day...said he nailed em up like crazy. He didn't plaster...only put up the lath. Guess at one time he was pretty much in demand by all the local plasterers.

          Nowadays with blue plaster board, I wonder if anyone still does the old school method. Sure would be a lot of work!

          Davo

          1. csnow | Jan 30, 2004 05:56pm | #6

            My father-in-law was a plasterer all his working life.  Little guy with arms like Popeye.

            Did it all, from wood to metal, to BB.  He even had to slake his own lime.

            Retired now, but 'consults' on my projects.  Amazing to watch him lay down a perfect finish coat.  It's a real art.

            Imagine the sheer weight of the plaster that had to be put up for just one typical room.

          2. mikerooney | Jan 30, 2004 07:59pm | #7

              In the "real" old days, those houses had to sit for a month or three for the plaster to cure out. 

  2. Davo304 | Jan 29, 2004 09:57am | #3

    Ditto what csnow said about using screws with washers. This should hold fine, especially if ceiling just a little loose and not bulging terribly.  After screws are in place, use setting type joint compound (the kind you mix...not the premixed stuff in a bucket) to patch the holes.

    Use same joint compound to fill in your hairline cracks. Is better if you "v" out the cracks with a razor knife first. Moisten crack with water from spray bottle then patch crack with tape and joint compound. If you don't want to use tape, add white masonry sand in with compound mix before patching. Sand helps fortify compound, but really,  mesh tape is better at keeping cracks from returning. For the record, adding masonry sand to the compound will also help to blend the old with the new cosmetically.

    If you have no luck with screwing up the ceiling, then cut out the bad spots  but leave lath in place if it has not  pulled away. Screw drywall patch directly to the wood lath, then finish it with the setting type joint compound. If plaster is thicker than 1/2 inch, use 5/8 drywall and /or shim it out on backside so patch will be nearly in same plane as plaster...then coat and feather to same thickness.

    Just my 2 cents.

    Davo

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Guest Suite With a Garden House

This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump
  • Insulation for Homes in the Wildland Urban Interface

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data