interior wall 45 degree corner framing
farmgal
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I am trying to stick frame an interior door opening that will be at a 45 degree angle from the adjacent walls. I assume the top and bottom plates should be cut at an angle so they meet but how are studs layed out? Does a nail just get put thru across the angle (thru the edge of the king and into the other wall stud)? The door will be close to the corners on both sides so I am worried about stability. What happens with attaching drywall later? I am just learning about framing walls and doorways.
farmgal
Replies
I have done this by ripping a 4x4 into 2 triangular wedges.
Wedge nails to the king, jack to the king. Adjacent wall nails to the wedge.
Sketch an overhead view showing the top plate with the king jack pairs set in the corner of the 45, outside edge of the king = apex of 45 - the remaining triangle is the wedge.
You will still need the king / jack pair for drywall and trim nailing surfaces.
Note for this to really fit the cut angles are 22-1/2 - not 90 against a 45.
Double top plates will help to stabilize as would metal nail plates.
Probably as clear as mud...........
Jim
Edited 1/28/2008 5:05 pm ET by JTC1
Thanks, I pretty much understand everything you said except for the following:
"Note for this to really fit the cut angles are 22-1/2 - not 90 against a 45"
But once I start setting it up this may become clear.
Farmgal
Mud getting any clearer?
I think riversong's explanation of what happens is clearer. Just a question of whether you use my wedge technique or add a ripped stud.
Ripped stud will lengthen the space between the door and the corner a bit more than the wedge technique. If you can live with (or want) the added space, ripped 2x6's are probably easier and cheaper material cost.
Both techniques will probably be more clear if you sketch them out. Just draw the plates - ends cut at 22-1/2 and butted together to form the 45. Then draw in the king jack pair of the door and the end stud of the adjacent wall. The remaining void area at the corner is what the wedges fill.
Or, by adding the ripped 2x6 studs (will be parallelogram in shape) you accomplish the same thing - but the wall with the door in it will be about 3" longer overall when compared to the wedge technique.
Enjoy!
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Didja' frame it yet? How'd it go?
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Not yet, I don't have a table saw to make the cut, so have to find someone who does. Since Santa did not leave me a table saw, maybe the Easter bunny will--meanwhile I have to make do with a circular saw and a long correctly angled cut just seems like it would be too difficult. Maybe I'm wrong and just shy about tackling it.
WE DO IT ALL THE TIME WITH CIRCULAR SAW. does not have to be a perfect bevel cut.
I would not let the potential arrival of the Easter Bunny hold up your project. Besides he's expected to provide at least one of the five basic food groups - sugar, salt, grease, caffeine, alcohol -- but I digress.............
>>Maybe I'm wrong and just shy about tackling it.<<
Working without a table saw, I suggest you use riversong's corner technique.
The beveled cuts on the 2x6's are easier to do with a circular saw. If you are nervous about the long beveled freehand cut - guide your saw with a straightedge, shooting board or a use a rip fence with your existing saw.
For that matter, you can even attach a piece of scrap 1x to your circular saw with c-clamps to function as a rip fence.
Like someone else said - it does not have to be perfect. It only needs to provide structural rigidity and a surface to screw the drywall - not glue joint quality mating surfaces.
Go for it!
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
The top and bottom plates of both the angled wall and the adjacent walls should be cut at 22-½°.
The studs should be layed out as for any door opening, with a doubled king/jack on each side so the frame is stiff enough and so there's enough room for door casing on both sides.
You also need inside and outside corner nailing to catch the drywall, and this is where you will need either studs cut like wedges to fill the space between the perpendicular studs or a stud at each outside corner with its edges ripped at parallel 22-½°, but these will have to be made of wider stock (e.g. 2x6 for a 2x4 wall) so that their sides are the same length as the diagonal on the end of the plates.
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
I now have a better idea of the what the 22 degree cut means. Thanks
farmgal
Here is my technique.
"X's" are the studs, plate are the darker lines and for them cuts are marked.
I like to rip a 2x8 (or anthing wider than 6", even doubled 3/4" ply, or leftover LVL) for the end studs, beveled at 45 degrees to match the top and bottom plate. I used to think it was as good to use other methods, but this is quick, easy to nail to a square cornered wall, simple and takes care of a good sheetrock corner. Nothing is more frustrating than an unsupported outside corner when hanging rock.
A couple of 2x8's are cheap when labor cost to the client is nearly $1 a minute.
Good building
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.