FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

interior wall soundproofing

tcleveen | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 14, 2009 10:03am

Any ideas on soundproffing one interior space from another interior room? The rooms have to be accessible to each other and a door would seem to defeat other soundproffing efforts on the wall itself. I was thinking of two doors as you find in adjoining hotel rooms but that’s a lot of effort, cost and a thick wall required would take up valuable interior space. Is this the only way to soundproof the wall? If it is how thick a wall needs to be constructed to accomodate two doors? Would prefer something easier.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. calvin | Jun 14, 2009 01:22pm | #1

    Mass works well, two layers of drywall on each side-dig this-two different thicknesses has been mentioned.

    Split jamb with a gasket type isolator in between-then hang your doors on each side.

    Same with windows-two panes, split jamb and tip the panes at diff. angles.

    Two plates/alternating studs.  Sound deadening insulation filling cavities.

    The above was used in 70's radio booth construction.

    A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

    1. tcleveen | Jun 14, 2009 11:36pm | #4

      thanks for the suggestion, someone else went a step further and recommended the channels and clips to create a dead space around the drywall.

  2. fingersandtoes | Jun 14, 2009 11:19pm | #2

    My prescription would be: A 2"x4" stud wall with 2 layers drywall one side and one layer drywall with RSIC-1 sound isolation clips on res bar the other side. Filled with mineral wool batts and all openings and joints carefully caulked you won't hear a thing. 

    However, this wall will still leave the door and flanking noise through the ceiling and floor as weak points. Probably not much you can easily do about the flanking noise beyond packing the area above and below the wall with mineral wool batts if you can get access. You can get rated insulated interior doors that with gaskets and thresholds will go along way. http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/doors/doors.asp I don't think the hotel double door idea is a very good one. Any I have encountered have leaked sound like sieves.



    Edited 6/14/2009 4:22 pm ET by fingersandtoes

    1. tcleveen | Jun 14, 2009 11:30pm | #3

      thanks for the input and I'm inclined to agree with you about skipping the two door concept, which the owner favors. Wonder what my sound insulation ratings would be if I used standard R-13 fiberglas stapled batts with extra of the same stuffed in around the ceilings and other margins etc., along with your suggestion of doubled up drywall and channels/clips. Wool isn't that easy to get but of course insulation is available and cheap at Home Depot type of stores.

      1. fingersandtoes | Jun 15, 2009 02:13am | #5

        I wouldn't worry as much about the wool as the other stuff. The reason I suggested that assembly is that it is one for which test ratings exist and it tests near STC 60. With sound acting in such unpredictable ways I always like to start with a tested assembly and doors, rather than just adding noise control  at random without knowing that you will end up with. I know people have had good results with things like vinyl loaded mass, green glue and other products but using a complete tested assembly to my mind makes more sense, and gives you something to fall back on if the owner questions your approach.

         

  3. User avater
    popawheelie | Jun 15, 2009 03:38am | #6

    I've seen Dr.s offices with insulated interior walls and the doors were 1 3/4"  solid slabs.

    The extra thickness and density helped with the noise.

    They also rolled fiberglass batts over the tops of the walls about three feet on both sides on top of the ceilings.

    "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."
    Will Rogers



    Edited 6/14/2009 8:40 pm by popawheelie

    1. fingersandtoes | Jun 15, 2009 03:43am | #7

      I wish my doctor's office was a bit better insulated. Muffle my screams when he stitches my fingers :)

      1. Piffin | Jun 15, 2009 05:40am | #8

        The nuns been whacking them with a ruler again? 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. tcleveen | Jun 15, 2009 09:38am | #11

      ok sounds like one thick, fire rated door may be enough

      1. steverichards | Jun 15, 2009 09:52pm | #12

        check out sound resistant drywall (#1 on google is "quietrock") I hear it is quite good. You might also look at MLV (Mass loaded vinyl) although this might get a little pricey. The cheaper option is to use a combination of metal clips/channels, insulation (cellulose might be best and available at a home center), and perhaps an extra layer of drywall. I install spray foam insulation, and it has been discussed that different densities of foam will block different frequencies more effectively. Without an acoustical engineer, the best you can do is try the most cost effective options and use a combination of them, although you won't really know whether you may have some transmission of low of high frequencies until installed. I think most approaches to sound deadening use either mass or a sound absorbing material, along with decoupling the two interior surfaces as best as possible to avoid vibrations making their way through. In my own home, considering I own the equipment, if I was really concerned about noise, I'd install a layer of CC foam, then OC foam, and Quietrock drywall over clips/channels.

        1. tcleveen | Jun 16, 2009 08:56pm | #24

          probably overkill for my application as just want to minimize sound that a renter in one area may affect a part time resident in an adjoining area. Thanks for the foam idea but beyond my means...

  4. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Jun 15, 2009 05:42am | #9

    Good doors can make a HECK of a difference in sound transmission.

    My wife is a light sleeper who likes to sleep late, I like to take catnaps... we've got kids and frequent long term out of town guests.  Noise has to be kept out of the bedroom.  We live in a 1960 cheepo ranch, bedrooms are down the hallway from the living room.

    Hollow core doors are basicly big drums, I've experienced them seeming to amplify sound rather than diminish it.  My first pass at sound abatement in the bedrooms was putting up 1 3/4" solid core slabs in FIRE DOOR frames.  These are like outdoor doorframes, as they have a weatherseal all around, but no step at the bottom.  That alone took care of 90% of the noise... but still there was a nagging 10% that still got through - probably through the walls and under the door.

    The final bit was taken care of when I realized that the hallway was exactly 36" wide.  I redid a closet door in the hallway from 32" to 36".  Now, opening the closet door all the way actually closes off the hallway from the rest of the house.  I made a door jamb on the wall and put in a ball detent to keep it closed.  It's not a perfect seal by any means, but it significantly reduces the sound that CAN get into the hallway.  That little bit of sound does not get past the solid core doors.

    My suggestion = two solid doors with weatherstripping around the jamb.  No doorknobs, just pull handles on the outside and push plates on the facing sides, ball detent instead of latches.

    Whisper quiet.

    BTW, my house has just 1/2" drywall and no interior insulation.  The doors take care of it all.

    EDIT:  I bought the doors and frames at HD, and spent about $100 per door.

    Tu stultus es
    Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
    Also a CRX fanatic!

    Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.



    Edited 6/14/2009 10:43 pm by xxPaulCPxx

    1. tcleveen | Jun 15, 2009 09:36am | #10

      Thanks for your description on how you solved your noise issues. In this case I will need locks/handles as one area is the rental, and the other reserved for occasional out of towners so the spaces have to be secured from one another.

      1. User avater
        xxPaulCPxx | Jun 16, 2009 06:35am | #18

        No problem.  Key locks on the outer face, finger turns on the inside... or vice versa, just like hotel rooms.

        Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

        Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

  5. woodhak | Jun 15, 2009 10:07pm | #13

    Sound is transmitted through the air and vibration. Adding mass to the wall and door is a starting point. Then you need to find all the openings that allow air, back to back outlets, cable jacks phone jacks, ducts and  the gaps around the door.

    I have found that 2 layers of drywall is very effective  with accoustical insulation (rock wool). The door will need to be a solid core door with weather striping including the sill. Any back to back electrical device will need to be sealed or preferably moved so they are not back to back and each device needs to be in a box sealed with a putty pad. This is pad that essentially seals the back of the device from leaking any air. The duct work cannecting the two rooms will be harder to address and i am not sure how that could be done. once all of this is done then you may find that the sound is going around the wall ie over the top or bottom.

    The better the wall gets at reducing sound transmission the more important all of the other items become. it is not uncommon to add accoustical insultation above a wall in commercial installations.

     

    1. tcleveen | Jun 16, 2009 08:51pm | #22

      thanks for suggestions

  6. User avater
    Metaxa | Jun 15, 2009 11:36pm | #14

    I don't know of the actual brand names but QuietRoc or QuietRock is a brand of insulation that deadens sound. Rock wool as others have mentioned.

    Solid slab doors in place of hollow core, you can buy acoustical sealant and acoustical tape/mats and do the electrical outlets, telephone jacks, etc.

    You don't have to double drywall, there is a drywall type available that has one sheet equivalent to multiple sheets and it self seals around mechanical penetrations.

    Sound, like water or electricity, seeks the path of least resistance to flow. Think like a drop of water and place barriers in the way.

    -Metaxa

    1. aworkinprogress | Jun 16, 2009 02:16am | #15

      The Quiet rock is fantastic . Quietsolutions is the company, they make a great variety of materials specifically designed for upper level theaters and meeting rooms hotels and the like. I have used several of the products and am sutibly impressed. They make a flooring product and have very exacting data on a multitude of different construction practices and what they will give you in regards to the STC sound transmission class. There is a reason they call themselves Quietsoulution. pretty much EVERYTHING you ever wanted to know on the subject awaits you. QUIET rock,seal,seam rf,putty,wood,foam,windows,home,glue,coat,tile,room.....

    2. tcleveen | Jun 16, 2009 09:59am | #19

      Probably go with the sound board and skip the doubling up of rock

      1. woodhak | Jun 16, 2009 06:59pm | #21

        check the cost that accoustical drywall is very expensive.

  7. User avater
    Mongo | Jun 16, 2009 02:52am | #16

    Use Roxul insulation. Good stuff, easy to install, and it works. They make a sound batt as well as an insulative batt, make sure you get the correct one.

    Others have mentioned multiple layers of drywall. Channels help too. Again, that works. Use the soundboard or use one layer of MLV in the wall. Use MLV or an acoustucal caulk/sealant between the bottom plates and subfloor as well as the top plates and the ceiling joists.

    Best door I ever made had a layer of MLV and a sheet of drywall sandwiched between two layers of wood. The door frame actually had a small raised curb on the bottom so the door was sealed against a gasketed stop on all four edges.

    With the door closed you couldn't hear any screaming from the other side.

    1. aworkinprogress | Jun 16, 2009 03:02am | #17

      Screaming ...... was that good or not so good. should we be impressed or worried

      1. User avater
        Mongo | Jun 16, 2009 06:58pm | #20

        I couldn't hear the screaming, so I can't tell you if it was good or bad. But even though I couldn't hear it I'm certain there must have been screaming. Or it was just the voices in my head. Again.

    2. tcleveen | Jun 16, 2009 08:53pm | #23

      I like the suggestion about the door. Have to see where they sell them for pickup in my area.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 693: Old-House Hazards, Building Larsen Trusses, AI in Construction

The crew talks about work start times, fire-resistant construction, fixer-uppers, building Larsen trusses, and AI for construction.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 693: Old-House Hazards, Building Larsen Trusses, AI in Construction
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding Hazardous Materials in a Fixer-Upper
  • A Classic Paint Sprayer Gets a Thoughtful Refresh
  • Podcast Episode 692: Introduction to Trade Work, Embodied Carbon, and Envelope Improvements

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2025
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data