I am almost through framing my deck at home in Seattle, WA and I’ve been planning on using 1×6 Ipe. I could finish the whole thing without seams with 16′ boards. I’m wondering if anyone has had practical experience with installing boards this length/dimension? I’ve read comments regarding concern about cupping in a 1×6. I’m not sure whether to take them seriously when there are just as many comments regarding the stability of the wood. Is it worth spending the money for a 5/4×6 or should I go with a 1×4? Also, is the 16′ length going to be a bear to work with for a 1×6 regarding any straightening that needs to be done?
Thanks for any advice,
Eric
Replies
I've never worked with Ipe, but with softer woods there's no problem working with 16-footers and longer. There are a half-dozen tricks for dealing with badly warped planks, and one or two of them will occur to you (if needed) without any need for instruction.
1x Ipe decking
I used 1x6 ipe for my 20 ft by 17 ft deck several years ago. Cupping is a major issue. Make sure all of your boards are installed with the cup facing down. in bare feet, the edge of the cupped boards installed upwards can be uncomfortable to step on. Also, Ipe slivers are quite painful.
These boards really change in dimension seasonally. 1/4 inch gap increases to almost 1/2 inch in late summer ( I am just down the road in Portland, OR)
If I were to do it again I think I would go with the 5/4 and really pay attention to the cupping/growth rings.
Thanks for the advice. I will look into the cost of the 5/4 boards. The joists are already in at 16" oc so it seems a bit of a waste since I know the 5/4 can go 24". The gap info is helpful too. My wife wears practical shoes, so I think the 1/4" to 1/2" movement will be fine. I'm making a real effort toward details that breath here in the NW...
Any photos of the cupping issue that you have? I'm curious how extreme it is.
I used 1x6x18 and have had no problems on a small deck I built 2 yrs ago. Looks like you know what you're doing from the photo. I don't think you'll have any problems with the install. Use stainless hex drive screws, the square drive is no good. Daly's on Stone has a great product for the finish.
Jeff
Are you installing the decking diagonal or aligned with the framing? If not diagonal you're gonna have some trouble with the deck swaying, even after the stairs are in place. A diagonal brace along the bottom of the framing will help that.
Yeah, I'm installing the decking perpendicular to framing. I'm planning on some ss sway bracing in addition to the knee braces on the posts away from the house. I'm an engineer. If anything, it will be overdone as my inspector likes to say. I just haven't gotten there yet.
Knee braces will be nearly worthless on that deck. Stiffening the deck platform is what you need to do.
The definitive answer to your questions can be answered;
by using the information and formulas available in, "The Wood Handbook, Wood as an Engineering Material ".
Availalble here in pdf format: http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100&header_id=p
A publication of the US Forest Service, Forest Products Lab, paid for by your tax dollars.
While I don't think the equations are very complex, I have learned down over the years that they are a bit too intimidating for many people. But, as an engineer, I'll assume you have had a materails class or two, the book should be fairly easy for you to understand.
I use 1x4s myself, but the few places where I place 1x6s have never given me a problem with cupping. I use SS Torx drive screws from GRK, predrilled.
Kickers from post to beam should be all you need for sway bracing there, IMO
Wow, this is looking really nice. How you are creating it?