Need to attach a 4×4 Ipe newel to a concrete stair landing.
Is there a magic anchor that doesn’t require drilling a deep endgrain dowel type pin? End grain drilling is a bear in any wood, and Ipe has got to be the worst imaginable.
I do have a Bosch roto hammer , but the the HO, is not crazy about a 5″ dia hole in her stoop to embed the post base.
Simple rail, post buried in dirt at the start of the 4 steps, ending newel at the top, 2×4 Ipe rail, no balusters.
BTW, Ipe prices here..2x4x14′ 69.00$ 4x4x12′ 130.00$ , being as I need 4 posts at 4′..I gots 8′ of left over post stock..eeek.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
“Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?
Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Replies
Duane,
Don"t know if this will work, but here is a link.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/AB-ABA-ABE-ABU.asp
Chuck S
Thanks bud, I had tried them many moons ago for a similar deal, they ain't it.
I thought someone here had found something but the search results were not much help.
Also trying to avoid ripping the 4x4 and dado out a recess for say a threaded rod and captured nut, wanna tell myself there is an easy way (G).Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
I know you mentioned it in the OP. A saw cut may be your best bet.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
This is one of them " why did I say anything about a rail" LOL
Oh well, gotta come up with something.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Can you drill a couple holes in the face of the landing? If so, I've done a bottom newel by notching 1-3/4" out of the post for a distance equal to the height of the pad, then buried a couple rods in epoxy, and mounted the post to the face with the notch set so it "sits" on the pad. Make sense? the notch prevents side to side movement and the rail itself holds the post steady front to back. Seems to me the last one I did, I gooed the notch w/ pl before I sinched up the nuts. That way also makes it easier ( for me , anyway) to put some tapered shims in if need be as tightening to plumb.
Bing
Now that I had not considered. Treat the landing as a deck sorta huh?
THNX, I just may explore that.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Sphere, I think the hole in the end is the way, I've done it with just a 1/2 " SS rod, so drilling wasn't too bad. I did start with a small pilot hole and then worked up to 5/8" IIRC. This was on a brick stoop, and I used the PL. Worked very well.
Rich
Yeah, I know it's doable, BUT..
I was called to help a guy bury the hardware for a top and bottom latching door. All well and good, except he had Butcher Block Counters for the door slabs. Rock Maple. He had already burnt up two drills and broke a bit drilling deep into that endgrain, 'tweren't pretty.
I sawed the door edge off ( missing the busted bit BARELY) and dado'd out the channel and reglued the edge back on, I was a hero.
I just don't want to be "That Guy" that Fu's a 4x4 post witha busted bit in it..LOL.
Incremental is the deal for sure, but even then, I fear wobble in the finished post..no bottom rail, no balusters, no other means of support ..7' long hand rail..I dunno.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Got a machine shop nearby? They could drill any size you need, I'm thinking a steel fence post, what, 2" dia., maybe. Epoxy or PL into place.
I wish, this is gonna have to be as least complicated as I can get it. A machinist here would be like " Two weeks" and then still not be done..BTDT. Then I'd still need a 2" hole in the stoop, which would probably break off with my luck of late.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Having worked with Ipe this is what I would do.
Get a length of 5/8" SS threaded rod.
Drill a hole in the concrete and epoxy in place.
Dill a hole in the end grain of the Ipe 1/32" less than 5/8" dia. I would think a 5 or 6" deep hole in the post would be sufficent.
I drill in just a 1/4" or so at a time then back it out and clean the shavings off the bit.
'Thread' the post onto the bolt and then back it off. Slather the hole with some epoxy and screw it back on.
BTW it is important to coat the end grain of all the Ipe with Anchor seal or the like. Otherwise you will get a lot of end grain checking.https://www.uccoatings.com/
so thats another vote to drilling/rodding. I'm counting.
How's that SSrod deal with sideways wiggle? I have also used Anchor Seal, lots of it, on the last big deck I did of Ipe. Believe it or not, this will be painted and I don't think much paint would stay stuck to the anchor seal on th eendgrain,, I'll probably prime the heck outta the endgrain w /oil base primer.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
>> I just don't want to be "That Guy" that Fu's a 4x4 post witha busted bit in it..LOL.Well, you've got an extra 8 feet of it, right? What's the problem? :)