I will be installing iron balusters next week. Oak rail, post to post, open oak tread right, L shaped stairs (bullnose starting step).
I install rail on a regular basis but never done iron balusters. Any tricks up your sleeve? or goofs to watch out for?
Paul
Replies
Paul: I am installing some iron balusters tomorrow. In my case they are 1/2 inch square shanks. I ground down a paddle bit so as that the corners of the baluster can be driven into the hole that is drilled 3/4 of an inch deep into the tread.
I then place some 1.25 inch square drive screws along side the balusters sides. This takes less than a minute. These screws are used to half way align the baluster so its plumb..also you would not believe how tough it is to pull one out of its hole with these screws biting in to its sides. The base foot then covers the screws and I just place a little dab of clear silicone under it. The holes to receive the tops of all the balusters are typically 1/2 inch holes...and right before I assemble the rail..I put a little bit of clear silicone in each of the holes.
Edited 1/19/2003 3:08:26 PM ET by Stan Foster
Thanks Stan. What tool do you use cut the balusters? I like the idea of silicone to attach the shoes and drilling the lower holes wider to align the balusters. I am a little nervous about using silicone in the top holes but I respect your work and attention to detail. I think I will use epoxy in the lower wider holes and silicone up in the rail. The balusters I will use will have a 1/2 round top. Do you allow part of the round to show on the rake rail? Or do you pound it in a little so only the square shows?
Paul: I just let the lower part of the inclined rail bottom out on the square shoulders. There isnt too much length anyway..and this seems to work nice.
Seriously though....those screws around the bases are awesome for holding the balusters in place and they cant hardly be pulled out of the treads.
Edited 1/19/2003 4:01:38 PM ET by Stan Foster