hey guys, I need some tips on framing an irregular hip roof. (all I’ve ever done in the past all had the same pitch. house is 35′ 1″ wide- end king common is at 17’61/2″-ok.
The 35’1″ side is at a 10/12 pitch, but the front & rear are 7/12. Dilema- what is the best way to firgure out where the king commons are placed? And what about the
hip rafter? HELP!
Replies
Time to find a good carpentry textbook or roof framing manual, but check first to be sure irregular hip framing is covered before you buy. (not all do) The subject is a bit too involved for a quick answer here buit there are set procedures that require a bit of time to study & wrap your mind around. I did one a few years ago & as I remember it, I spent more time planning then cutting, but it all fit. I don't think anyone else was as impressed as I was. Seemed a shame to cover up all that neat framing with plywood, shingles, & drywall.
Anyway, good luck. And, if you come up with any more specific questions, come on back & we'll take a stab at them.
Paul
LDTINC,
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I would definitely go to Joe's site. Buy the article that he has written. JLC has an article from January 2002 about irreg valleys that is technical (read:lot's of math) and an article from May 1993 that describes how to figure an irregular roof with just a sheet of plywood and a rafter square. Combine all three and you will have no problem.
I just set an irregular valley today. The overhangs lined up just perfectly. If I can do it, then you can. This valley is big. 18' long from plate to the ridge intersection and it is an 1-3/4 x 14" LvL. I was by myself and fortunately LVLs are nice and dry.
Tim,
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Thanks Joe. I cut the valley and it fit the first time. I'll tell you what, I did not want to make a mistake with that LVL
Tim,
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Edited 6/28/2002 11:30:01 AM ET by J Fusco
Joe,
I'm glad it fit. It meant I didn't have to simultaneously hold the valley and then reach for my hammer and nails or nail gun. It's funny because the guy I frame with taught me how to frame, and he is good. The funny thing is that he always thinks he is right about pretty much everything because he has "experience" on his side. I don't believe he has ever framed an irregular roof for equal overhangs. He told me he wanted me to do it and he wanted to stay out of it. I think he is sure I'll fail and he doesn't want to take the blame. I can't blame him for that. He has been finishing up that job I showed you pictures of so he hasn't even seen this roof yet. My other framing partner and I just set the other valley and called it a day. It is just pouring down rain. That valley fit right the first time, but we had to trim back a rafter to make more room. The level cut on the valley was ~61 degrees. On a LVL 14" deep you can imagine how far back the seat comes. I figure it is a sucess. This roof had some math to it. The designer wanted the front gable (12-12) ridge to be the same as the side gable (8-12). The right hand side of the front gable extends down past the top of the upstairs walls and lands on top of the second story subfloor over the garage. They want a bonus room. I had to figure from the top down. So far it is all working out right on. When we are done I'll send you pictures.
Tim,
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Edited 6/28/2002 4:34:00 PM ET by J Fusco
Thanks Joe. This is why I love my job. It's less like work and more like a puzzle.
That house that I sent you pictures of, we had to put a 6x12x 24' long "post". The inspector is the biggest moron I have ever met. I have respect for inspectors, but not this guy. He had us do some work to the "collar ties" in the upstairs. We told him they weren't collar ties. Then he told us that we need to reinforce the posts for the ridge because it is a structural ridge. That is circular reasoning. If it is structural, you don't need collar ties. If it has collar ties, it doesn't need a structural ridge.
In additon to Joe's site, another good resource is The Roof Framer's Bible by Barry Mussel. I have given many copies to my friends in the business. Keep one in your truck and there will be few roofs that stump you.
Tom