Replies

1. 
   JDRHI | Sep 10, 2002 03:58am | #1

   IMHO, No....the pine is much too soft and reacts too greatly to changes in humidity. Do not allow existing toilet flange to restrict your options in a solid subfloor. Were it up to me I`d put a layer of 3/4" ply down on top of pine and adjust toilet flange as needed.

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

2. 
   chiefclancy | Sep 10, 2002 08:06am | #2

   I agree, take out the pine. Put down minimum 5/8" exterior grade ply subfloor then 1/2" cbu. For those small tiles you want a very stiff subfloor. Since you're going through the hassle of ripping this all apart, replacing the pine with EGP isn't too much extra work.

   If you wish to add waterproofing to the floor, the only way to do this is to apply a membrane over the backerboard, as the manufacturers typically do not want anything between the backerboard and the ply except thinset. A trowel-on waterproofing membrane applied over the backerboard would work very well.

3. 
   Schelling | Sep 10, 2002 11:21am | #3

   I would leave the subfloor, cover with 1/2 cdx and then apply Ditra. Lot of ways to skin this cat.

1. 
   Mooney | Sep 10, 2002 03:27pm | #4

   I agree.  $-)

   Tim Mooney

2. 
   Davo304 | Sep 11, 2002 06:29am | #9

   Schellingm

   What is "DITRA?"  I've never heard of this.

   Thanks.

   Davo

1. 
   Schelling | Sep 11, 2002 01:48pm | #12

   Ditra is a Schluter Systems product, basically dimpled plastic with a fibrous backing which is laid in thinset. It is a substitute for cement board or a mud bed. It is easy to lay, no mess, and is slightly more expensive than cement board. It does isolate the tile from movement in the subfloor.

1. 
   Davo304 | Sep 14, 2002 07:28am | #13

   Thanks for the info...Sounds something like Durashield to me.  This DITRA Product comes in what thicknesses?

   Thanks again.

   Davo

1. 
   Schelling | Sep 16, 2002 01:16pm | #15

   I don't know the exact thickness of ditra. Try at schluter.com

4. 
   andybuildz | Sep 11, 2002 12:53am | #5

   You can cut the toilet flange out if that makes things easier (AND BETTER !!!)......either use a rubber collor attched to a new toiletflange that youve glued a piece of pvc pipe to and set it (cut it) at the height you need.....Seems simpilar to me then avvoiding the real issues. Lay down some 3'4" CDX ply over the planks  (not  that you need 3/4" but I allwsts over do thangs) then mud it or CBU it..Personally I'd ONLY use 1/2" WONDERBOARD. a buck or two more a sheet but far superior to all the rest CBU'S in WET areas......You have a tiny room there too so.....(good area to practice a mud job!)

   Be well

            Namaste

                           Andy

   It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   JDRHI | Sep 11, 2002 03:07am | #6

   "You have a tiny room there too so.....(good area to practice a mud job!)"

   I`m thinking the room may be too small to "practice" a mud job. If it doesnt come out well, making up for the imperfections when tiling could be a bitch.J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

1. 
   andybuildz | Sep 11, 2002 04:26am | #7

   Have faith....read , talk and go for it man...Everythings about preperation......Ya have to start somewhere....Work it through dude and do it! I KNOW you can,,,,,,,,I just do!.....Ask questions....find the right book like I did and didnt understand it....Just do it bro! Prep is everything.........questions are everything,,,,,,,DO IT!!!!!

   Be well and we all are there for ya//////keep posting......ask us!!!!!!!! Please take pictures for those peeps behind ya brother!

   Namaste

    AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   andybuildz | Sep 11, 2002 04:28am | #8

   Jay....bring the brother up..Dont bring him down.......C'mon.....aint all that hard.we aint tryin'n to straighten out that stupid Eiffel piece a crap homes

   Be well

             Namaste'

                          AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

5. 
   Davo304 | Sep 11, 2002 06:50am | #10

   I wouldn't rip out the 1X6s. I'd lay down some construction adhesive and screw down a plywood subfloor on top. Before putting the plywood down, make sure 1x6s are nailed down good...renail or screw any loose boards first.

   1/2 inch ply should stfiffen floor plenty. Then put down whatever thickness of concrete board that you like.

   If you need to raise toilet flange to accomodate things, cut it out as earlier suggested or you might get away with just adding a flange spacer on top of existing. Spacers are sold in a couple of thicknesses at plumbing/hardware stores and only cost a few bucks. Easier than cutting existing pipe and reglueing...if the spacer will do the trick for you.

   As for moisture barrier between 1x6s and plywood...absolutely not needed. As for a moisture barrier between plywood subfloor and cement backer board...absolutely not needed.

   Instead, use thinset mortar (adhesive) trowel this down onto plywood subfloor, then place cement board on top. Press cement board firmly into thinset, and then screw it down. Tape all joints with fiberglass mesh tape (like used in drywall applications) and mud the tape with thinset and smooth it out. Now you're ready to start tiling.

   LOL.

   Davo

1. 
   prairiescl | Sep 11, 2002 07:28am | #11

   The 1/2" ply over the 1x6's sounds like the best bet. I can trim a full sheet to fit - no seams. Might take some finness to get it in place given the obstacles. Construction adehesive & a load of deck screws should tie the pine & plywood together well enough to be nearly as rigid as a single laminate.

   I'd prefer to skip the flange spacer if possible as this seems like one more joint that could leak and the original cast iron pipe is there to stay.

   Is there a clear winner between the 1/4" hardi-backer vs the 1/2" durock?

   Thanks for all the help,

   Scott

1. 
   Davo304 | Sep 14, 2002 07:39am | #14

   Lot of people like the 1/4 inch Hardie Backer. Use either. If the 1/4 inch will give you less elevation problems than going to the 1/2 inch Durock, then use the 1/4 inch.

   If not, then it's your call. But, I think the 1/4 inch Hardie would work just fine. Hardie seems to cut easier and cleaner than the Durock.

    Nomatter which product you use, do leave a gap of approx 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch between your walls and the cement backer board. Don't butt the board tight against the walls.

   LOL.

   Davo

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 16, 2002 02:04pm | #16

   i'm with Davo's advice. No need to remove the 1x6 and once the subfloor ply is glued and screwed, you'll have a very solid base. Thinset for the durock and you could blow up a small bomb under it and still have a one piece unit.Excellence is its own reward!