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is it called post-and-beam or nut-and-bolt?

JohnWalker | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 12, 2011 01:52am

Hi

I’d like to include some exposed heavy timbers in part of my home design. I am thinking of 8×8 fir posts with 8×10 beam spanning the 12′ opening into the kitchen and perhaps similar on the oposite 8′ opening to the living room. (Structural engineer has already signed off on these as an option).

I really like the look of heavy gauge black metal connectors with timber washers, big bolts etc. *Does this style have a distinct name?

Also does anyone have photos of inspired hardware? I am more than willing to get my fabricator to weld up something special.

Thanks

John

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  1. JohnWalker | Aug 12, 2011 09:50pm | #1

    Not even a nibble?

    .

    1. calvin | Aug 12, 2011 10:38pm | #2

      here you go.

       heavy gauge black metal connectors with timber washers, big bolts etc

      Glad I could help.

  2. Hokuto | Aug 13, 2011 08:13am | #3

    I'm unaware of any name for a specific style featuring wrought iron and timber, but I think you can find the motif used somewhat in Arts and Crafts / Mission style, and Gothic Revival. Just a guess.

    1. KDESIGN | Oct 03, 2011 12:03am | #4

      Industrial Timber Frame

      I used a lot of that type of heavy steel timber connectors on my house.  Some people have called it “high tech,” but I see it as older than that.  I see it as a sort of old railroad style or early timber frame industrial. 

      I have 4 X 8 ceiling beams connected to a timber ledger with heavy clip angles.  The angles are 3-1/2” X 5” X 3/8” thick, 7” long.  There are two at each connection with one on each side of the 4 X 8.  There are three ½” bolts with nuts through the two clip angles and 4 X 8.  There are three ½” lag screws through each clip angle and into the ledger. 

      I bought the angles sawed to length but saved some money by getting them without the holes.  I thought I would just drill them myself.  But with only a big hand held ½” drill, it took three passes with progressively larger bits to make a hole.  There were 44 angles times 6 holes each times three passes = 792 holes!  That was a bit tedious. 

      I also have some other connections using 7/8” threaded rod, big cast iron washers, and hex nuts.  I got the nuts and washers from a 100-year old timber railroad trestle that they were tearing down near here.   A lot of people paint that type of iron hardware black, but other deep colors look nice with natural timber too.  I painted mine fire hydrant red. 

      1. User avater
        xxPaulCPxx | Oct 03, 2011 11:48am | #5

        I've heard that you can get steel punched at the fabricator... I wonder how much a steel punch costs for doing that?

        1. KDESIGN | Oct 03, 2011 02:10pm | #6

          I had about 8 more made a few years later, and had them punched by the supplier.  But for the first 44, they wanted about $1 each without the holes and about $8 each with the holes.  I probably could have found a better price, but I did not look for one.  You tell them you want 44 piecs, 7" long, and they see that as being simple.  They don't need a drawing.  But when you give them a drawing with 12 dimensions locating 6 holes, they see that as being way more complicated. 

          However the first 44 were saw cut, so the edges were nice and clean.  The second group were shear cut, so the edges are very ragged and crevised on the face of the 3/8" steel thickness. 

        2. [email protected] | Oct 03, 2011 02:24pm | #7

          Holes

          Getting the holes punched will cost about $1 to $1.50 each, depending on the size, and the metal thickness. 

          1. User avater
            xxPaulCPxx | Oct 03, 2011 05:04pm | #9

            So in this case, the holes would command a $750 to $1200 premium over un-holed.

            Would that amount of money buy you a machine capable of doing the punches yourself?

      2. JohnWalker | Oct 03, 2011 11:30pm | #12

        KDesign, I like that look.

        For my own place I will only have a couple of large timber frames on either side of the dining room. Because there are only two I don't have the same kind of "792 holes" issues! If I were doing that I would buy a used heavy duty drill press and sell it after for about the same price. Drilling thick steel with a hand held drill is for the birds.

        If you have any photos could you post them? I have an idea for 7/8" or 1" threaded rod so photos of your design would be useful.

        I am probably going to have some steel column caps made similar to an old warehouse. Again i only need four so they can run a bit more expensive.

        Thanks

        John

  3. [email protected] | Oct 03, 2011 02:32pm | #8

    Bolted Wood Frame

    I'd call it bolted wood, or bolted timber framing. 

    Timber Framed to me implies wood joinery, with possibly an occaisional metal stiffening plate. 

    So far as fancy: The guys with the cnc plasma cutters can make anything you can draw on paper.  Of course there is a cost associated with the fancy, because they charge by the inch of cut. 

    You could probably buy standard connectors from Simpson, and make fancy overlays that can bolt or screw on over them. 

    The structural engineer should be giving you guidance on the sizing, number of bolts and spacing. 

  4. cussnu2 | Oct 03, 2011 05:12pm | #10

    Any time you get "holes"

    Any time you get "holes" involved it gets expensive!

    1. DanH | Oct 03, 2011 09:16pm | #11

      No, you're thinking of hos.

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