Issues with newly-installed red cedar shingle siding

About six weeks ago, our cedar shingles were installed on the sides of our house without any space between them.
These shingles are 24″ long red cedar, premium quality (kiln-dried, end-grain). They are so long because there is a 9-10″ exposed face.
About 50 of the shingles have buckled in the recent rains, several have popped a bit away from the wall (not far, just not plumb with the adjacent ones, and 20% have a slight waviness (you only can really see this on the bottom course of shingles and when the sun rakes the surface of a wall or casts shadows).
It does not look terrible, and we do not want to re-shingle the house. However, I am trying to understand if this is likely to be an on-going problem.
The shingle installer says he will replace the buckled shingles and face nail all of the other shingles on this house (he says this is needed given the 9-10″ exposed face).
I would be grateful for any advice.
Replies
jp
I sent a note to someone that knows cedar-can you post some pictures of your house?
thanks.
pictures
Thanks very much. I will post some pics later today.
take a look at this
and compare with your install.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation-and-maintenance/wall-manual/
When you come back-fill us in on the differences.
thanks.
edit: I had this link hiding on the computer.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/pdf2013/cssb-specsheets-9-press.pdf
our job vs. the cedar bureau wall installation manual
The shingle contactor left no room between shingles at all.
He is proposing to remove the buckled ones and face nail all the rest. I really do not want to have the entire house reshingled for green reasons and to avoid the delay to the house, but if this is going to be a major problem in the years to come, I will have him redo the entire job.
Not only are they much too tight together, but it appears from the pictures that he made no effort to prevent one joint from falling above another.
This is basic stuff -- the guy did not have a clue how to install shingles. Hell, I probably could have done better, even with this bum shoulder.
I hope he was cheap, 'cause he sure wasn't good.
The Cedar Bureau
This is the key. Read the installation instructions that Calvin linked to. Tightly butted shingles do not reflect the industry standard, and I think it's likely you'll always have problems with this installation.
Thank you
Guys, thank you for your advice. I will let you know what happens!
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings.
I'm certainly no expert, but every description I've read (or viewed) about wood shingles indicates they need to be spaced. The only exception being "green" shakes.
I think it will be an ongoing problem. But you may get by by removing the offenders and replacing what needs replaced and gapping those that dont. Some buckled shingles probably have faults in the grain that make them prone to cupping. You may be able to make a relief cut on the backside and rip off a quarter inch or so and reuse them.
Here are some pictures.
Thanks for the links, I had seen those also, so it seems they definitely mis-installed them. I just hope to get some opinions on how big a deal it is for the longevity and performance of the shingles.
THANKS!
All I can say is stop payment on your check!