Jamb extensions – T shape or no?
PatchogPhil
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Windows are Andersen double-hung, and the jambs are 3/8″ too small as measured from the installed drywall. (Was ordered wrong and I didnt realize `til months later when the drywall was installed).
In other rooms in my house I ripped my own extension from clear pine 1×4, on a table saw. I made them T-shaped so that the T bottom fits into the groove in the jambs. Kinda tedious reseting the saw for the different cuts.
What if I do not make the extensions T-shaped? Just cut 3/8″ strips, then glue and nail.
I’ll hide from the jamb police. 🙂 I just wonder if there’s any problems without having the T part locked into teh jamb groove.
Replies
Patch
If you glue and nail as you install the extensions I would think that that would suffice.
Doug
To make your own extensions out of sq. stock is ok. The shaped andersen ext.'s do make alignment easier, but your way should be cheaper.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Since I only need 3/8" I'd be cuttin off most of the preformed pieces.
phil.... almost every house we do requires jamb extensions.. 99% of the time we ignore the groove
jsut rip 3/4 stock and glue and nail it with finish nails..
you can either flush your extensions or use a reveal.. most of the time we use a 1/4 revealMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
"99% of the time we ignore the groove"
Yer a bad bad man Mike ...
me too!
I ignore the groove most times ...
just cut glue and nail.
btw ... it's an extension jamb ... forget the screws ... more metal to screw up the trim ... just nail it and forget it.
if it's paint grade U can even forget the glue ... that's what caulk it for ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
I'm with you fellas!
Baseboard been VERRRY good to me
For a 3/8" extension I'd glue and screw using trim screws setback from the reveal. Give the wood time to absorb the moisture from the glue, expand, and then settle down before you sand. If you sand while the wood is plumped up from the glue when the wood dries it can show as a depression. Mark either the jamb or the casing for the screw locations to avoid nailing surprises. You could take the screw out after the glue sets, they're really just clamps here.
You could also plough your extension to match the Andersen cut and use a loose spline. Again screws will make a tighter glue joint than nails.
I do extensions on Andersons all the time. You don't need to cut a tongue on them, especially if they are only 3/8". What did you do, use boards for sheathing? If they are the tilt wash type, be careful your nails don't keep the vinyl side jambs from moving. The wood with the groove in it isn't very thick. Don't go pounding any four pennies in there. Get some 3/4" or 7/8" brads and keep them towards the outside of the groove. I would not use glue. Same thing goes across the bottom if you are not using sills, you could nail the bottom sash shut.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for all the advice.
This is an ongoing "gut" renovation on my house. Circa 1942, house has 3/4" boards as sheathing and 2x4 walls. That info was what I reported when ordering the windows.
Anderson only makes windows for 4 9/16" walls. We build 6 9/16". They make extension jambs for the 6 9/16" but they are more expensive than what we can make. It wasn't an ordering problem on your part.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match