Replies

1. 
   jet | Jul 31, 2002 02:40am | #1

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=46178&category=1,46168&ccurrency=2&SID=

    Try this web site for router bits. If not, just go to the home page and surf.

2. 
   Skiyup | Jul 31, 2002 03:12am | #2

   Don't get caught not leaving stop on one side or the other. You could assemble the window around the glass but if you ever need to replace or reglaze it you have a handful. Skip

3. 
   rez | Jul 31, 2002 05:31am | #3

   and rubber spacers between the bottom of the window and the frame.

   Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

1. 
   traveldogg | Aug 02, 2002 12:48am | #4

   What do you mean specifically about rubber stoppers?  Also great tip about replacing the glazing.  Thats one I hadn't though of.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Aug 02, 2002 04:04am | #5

   hard rubber setting blocks... two , one at each 1/4 point

   see if the company that sold you the 1/2 insulated glass has anyMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   rez | Aug 02, 2002 03:27pm | #6

   ya, a preventative measure. Small rubber blocks. They keep the bottom edge of your sealed glass from touching the wooden frame, forming a draining plane of sorts to keep the glass edge from possibly soaking moisture, wrecking the seal and thus fogging your windows and ending up etching the insides of your thermopane window as is presently discussed in another thread on 'Thermo glass cleaning' in general discussion.

   Half of good living is staying out of bad situations.

   Edited 8/2/2002 8:41:05 AM ET by rez

4. 
   Robertzcool | Aug 11, 2002 03:22am | #7

   If you have to build jobsite windows use solid rabbitted exterior door stock and stop in the glass.  Good advice about the setting blocks, a glass shop should have them.  Also you mentioned sidelites, that sounds like these are going to be next to a door and the floor.  Either place usually requires tempered glass by code and by good common sense. When you paint the exterior make sure to lap the paint onto the glass a good 1/8"+.  This helps seal out water, which is the death of dual glazed seals.

   I hate to discourage a DIY but usually manufactured units from say Marvin, Norco, Andersen are cheaper, warrantied, wood is treated and they are certified to meet minimum energy standards.  No glass manufacture will warranty a dual unit for seal failure in site built frame.

5. 
   user-3146 | Aug 11, 2002 06:02am | #8

   I just got done building a bunch of windows for a historical restoration project, and all I can say is use Poplar instead of pine, the cost is not much more, it's a soft/hard wood and easy to work with, the windows will last much longer.

   jason

1. 
   oldpro007 | Aug 11, 2002 02:29pm | #9

   Poplar is a good working wood, durable but not water resistant. Fir or pine is a better choice for exterior applications. It's been disscussed.

   Buying the windows is an easy route and well worth it. Making the windows would be more fun. That is on my list of fun projects for the future.

   I do think a skylight has a whole different construction method, but I not certain.Old Pro

1. 
   user-3146 | Aug 12, 2002 02:01am | #11

   Your probably right about that, It was a fine choice for our project, because we live in the desert. I guess we worry more about solar damage than water damage. Maybe your right again, how does poplar hold up in the sun?

   Jason

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 12, 2002 02:16am | #12

   If it's painted, the sun never sees it.Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   traveldogg | Aug 14, 2002 02:25am | #13

   Thanks to all that have responded.  Since my original posting, I have completed two of the three windows.  The reason I am constructing one set of windows is they mimmic a french door in symmetry around a fireplace.  I could not afford another $2000 door (nor did I need 2 doors) and a purchased window would not match the dimensions of the door.  The sidelights are next to a door and I ordered them tempered.  If you price a door with and without sidelights the price is nearly double.  I can make the sidelights much cheaper. Most of the exteriors of the window frames will be primed and painted to match my aluminium clad pella windows.  The sidelights will be stained and poly'd to match the door.  The sidelight/door are under a porch roof and will receive minimal moisture.  I live in Colorado with a mere 15" of rain and little humidity.

6. 
   MisterT | Aug 11, 2002 06:57pm | #10

   Craig,

   One tip, Pre finish the rabbet edges and the stop edges BEFORE assembly.

   Having the unfinished edge show from the other side looks like a hack job.

   Mr T

   Do not try this at home!

   I am a trained professional!