I am joining 2 1×12 oak boards. Each 1×12 is 12 feet in length. What is the best way to get straight edges on the 1x12s ( to eliminate crowns) before gluing and clamping? I do not have a stationary planer.
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A jointer
failing that a router with a straight edge to follow and a flush trim bit
Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark, Professional build the Titanic.
Normally a jointer would be the method of choice, but given the length and weight of the material you're trying to join, I would try setting up my shaper or router table to act as a vertical jointer. (This is more stable by placing the weight of the board on its face.) You would need a split fence (standard on shapers) which would be offset, so the cutter is in plane with the outfeed part of the fence. Or if you don't have a split fence, just clamp a piece of laminate (or some material of known thickness) to the outfeed part of the fence and adjust the fence so the bit is again in plane with the laminate. Also would recommend infeed/outfeed tables to help bear the weight. (Or a few friends to help stabilize the load. And more than a few cool ones for afterwards.)
Without a router table or shaper, your best bet would be as CAG suggested. Find a straight edge 12' long, clamp it to the board and use a router with a straight bit.
If you do try the jointer method, use infeed and outfeed tables, friends, and bolt a long auxilliary 10" tall fence to the standard fence.
Good luck.
BTW, use biscuits during the glue-up, and I hope you have plenty of clamps.
Funny, I thought of all the methods I might use if I was in my shop, but if I was on a job site with neither the equipment nor power available, I would reach into my box and pull out a Stanley jointer plane. Makes for a pleasant day listening to the hiss of steel through wood.
No greater pleasure than the feel of a good sharp joiner plane - unless it's the feel of a warm soft wife....
Excellence is its own reward!
"...unless it's the feel of a warm soft wife..."
At your age, I'd be expecting you to like the planer more and more.................(-:
I also like a good plane with a sharp blade. Hate 'em with a dull blade.
I really like the looks of Mr. T's setup, though.Science without religion is lame. Religion without science is blind. [Albert Einstein]
first time I've seen that with offset elvations and bearing bit.
I've done it with both at same elevation and straightedge to guide router which is clipping both sides at once. It can be a bear to control though, dragging one side while biting the other. I like his. It could work with a bottom bearing too, I bet.
Why does everyone think that I'm so old that I need a powered plunge router?.
Excellence is its own reward!
"Why does everyone think that I'm so old that I need a powered plunge router?"
'cause we've seen your picture....................(-:Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill
The question begs to be asked :
What do you need to join two twelve foot boards for?
Well anyhoo here's my two cents...
Use any of the above methods to get the boards acceptably straight.
clean the sawmarks off of one (if neccessary)
then set up like drawing below.
youwill get two matched edges ready for glue up.
VIOLA or VOILA(depending on how french you are.)
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am an Experienced Professional!
Hey Mr.T , Its your drawing , why did you use the CDW router ? Oh just thought you don't want to loan the good one?
That pic with the CDR made my friday...
i wouldnt recommend using a power jointer on 12 foot stock unless the bed is a min. of 6ft.
And with a hand jointer you still need to somewhat understadn how to joint a 12' board w/o butchering it like a beaver.
The actual best advise i could give you is to take the boards to a cabinet shop and have them mill and plane the boards to your specs. They are set up for such procedures.
However if you know some woodworkers convince them for some help.
Mr. T,
What I did to solve my dilemma was to tack a straight edge (8" ripping of half in. plywood) 1 5/8" from the edge of one of the 1x12s. I then shaved the edge off that 1x12 with a circuar saw. Then I butted the other 1x12 against it and continued running the circular saw against the straight edge which shaved the 1x12 and made the joint tighter. I repeated this process 4 times until the two 1x12s were joined perfectly. I suppose this could also be done with a router. Thanks for the great ideas.-- FUZ
How come nobody has suggested simply snapping a chalk line, replace it with a pencel line (so it's sharper) then use a jigsaw followed by a hand plane. Worked for me on 16' oak 1 x 12's. Did cheat on the last step as I do have a jointer.
Jon
Jigsaw?
If I were that hard up, I would use a circ saw. By satggereing the overlapp on two diff elevations, you could cut bot pieces at one timne withthe circ saw blade at square edges. Then a quick shift and the router..
Excellence is its own reward!
Piffin,
I guess it depends on how good a saw you have and how steady a hand. I can typically hold + - .010 with a jigsaw, + - .020 with a circular saw. I agree with the router idea, but off the the top of my head, can think of a better (more accurate) way using a router (actually a combo of all the ideas) than was suggested by a prior poster.
Jon
That's true but even witha steady hand, the jigsaw blade itself will wander at the tail.
No?.
Excellence is its own reward!
I could plane them straight with a small hand plane by eye in about the time it takes to read all these posts. A portable power planer fitted with a nice fence would do it in about ten minutes counting setup time.
The Porter Cable 126 works wonders for me. Plane one edge right side up and the outher upside down. eleminates the need for exactly 90 degree angle.
I don't know what your finished dimension is>You can get things pretty strait with your skill saw.Why not buy a peice of 6/4 or 8/4 . I guess the glue up will be more stable.
If you have some room to move, glue them up, as close as you can. Then take them to a local cabinet shop and have them run it thru, one of those laser guided rip saws. Ask them to joint it and plane it for you. It will probably cost you $30 bucks. How much is your time worth? And what do you need?
Edited 5/10/2003 9:06:55 AM ET by MuleSkinner