Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 17, 2004 04:24am | #1

   Plaster works pretty darn fine!

    

    

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1. 
   brownbagg | Jul 17, 2004 04:30am | #2

   what about brick wall and ceiling

1. 
   batman | Jul 17, 2004 05:31am | #3

   Same problem at the ceiling as at the walls

   "Plaster" meaning ...of paris?  or joint compound?  I'm afraid either will shrink and/or crack over time.  Is there an additive to keep "Plaster de Paree" from becoming too hard & brittle?  I once added vinegar to extend the working time because I had it setting up in the pot & it worked out really well.  I thought that it was "hard" water that caused it to set so quickly, does that make sense?

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 17, 2004 05:57am | #4

   Leet's start with another question, Are yopu talking about a real plaster wall, veneer plaster over board, Three coat plaster on lathe, or just sheerock?

   What is the status or condition right now, as we speak? 

    

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1. 
   batman | Jul 17, 2004 06:11am | #5

   veneer plaster over blue board, the room is painted, finished the trim today, priming tomorrow, the only thing then will be to paint the brick once I figger out how to finish the kinda ragged edges against the brick (also at the ceiling!).  The brick is painted and will be repainted a color other than the plaster so I'll have some interesting cutting in to do if I don't scribe a trim board to conceal the intersection.

2. 
   Piffin | Jul 17, 2004 06:27am | #6

   I guess I'm at a loss of understanding. Why are there ragged edges at the brick intersect? Didn't the plasterers do a decent job? There is not reason for leaviong it ragged when a bit if finish work on the polishing would have let you fine.

   Since this sounds like new work, and there is bord to stabilize the wall, I can't imagine why the wall would shrink and pull away from the brick wall either. So nothing more than a hairline crack should ever show. Since you are painting both, a good quality caulk could handle that. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   ClaysWorld | Jul 17, 2004 07:10am | #7

   Hi Matt is this something like what your thinking?

   Unimast Veneer Trims 701-B and 801-B are L-shaped trims designed for use at junction of gypsum base with rough concrete or masonry ceiling. Fine-mesh expanded flanges strengthen veneer plaster bond and eliminate shadowing.

   View Image

3. 
   ClaysWorld | Jul 17, 2004 07:17am | #8

     Here's the  site where that came from.

   http://www.dietrichindustries.com/bigdprod/btveneer.htm

4. 
   JeffBuck | Jul 17, 2004 09:32am | #9

   uhhh ....

   paintable caulk?

   seems too easy to me .....

   Jeff

   Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   batman | Jul 17, 2004 05:22pm | #10

   I kept the skim coat away from the brick anticipating scribing a trim board.  The flanges shown up in this thread would work if I had planned ahead...since I'm down the pike on this, should I back the plaster w/ something to stabilize it?  I can't use paper tape or fiberglass mesh since it can't lap onto the brick so...backer rod?  Oakum?  Chopped fiberglass?  HORSE HAIR?

   A hairline crack I could caulk & paint would be acceptable so long as it's no larger than that. 

   Thanks again

1. 
   ClaysWorld | Jul 18, 2004 09:10pm | #12

   Do you have good backing to nail a trimmer strip? Kinda tedious but if done with care would look OK.

    I like to use duct tape to tape off the brick if I'm caulking to it, nice and sticky. Take it off asap after the caulk goes on so it doesn't get stringy.

    Use good caulk so you don't get the crack.

2. 
   Homewright | Jul 19, 2004 11:52am | #13

   Sanded Vulcam caulk might be a good choice.  Just be sure to let it set well before priming and painting...

2. 
   reganva | Jul 17, 2004 07:31pm | #11

   Painter's caulk - that's what I used at a wallboard/brick seam - used a little backer rod for large gaps, but worked fine.

5. 
   Frankie | Jul 19, 2004 03:27pm | #14

   How deep are the mortar joints on the brick wall?

   Kinda late in asking a "How To" question. Sounds like your bed is already made.

   If in your position I would just flat tape it with compound and move on. Flat tapine is just taping one side of a corner with full width tape.

   F.

1. 
   batman | Jul 19, 2004 04:19pm | #15

   I thought that migh work, especially if I use backer rod to keep the bedding plaster(compound?) near to flush and kinda scribe the flat tape to the brick.  BTW-the mortar joints are sound and not too deep.

   Thanks again

6. 
   1110d | Jul 19, 2004 08:34pm | #16

   I've seen a J-channel used and really didn't like the result.  I'd protect the brick with duct tape and plastic and then have them mud up to the joint.  Cut the tape back.  Then run a heavy bead of paintable eurethane caulk over the joint as they are bound to move apart.