How does USG plus 3 joint compound compare to actual topping compound for top coat and skimming? It tries to be all things to all people and I generally just don’t trust that. I heard it doesn’t feather and skim well, doesn’t work as smoothly, etc. I don’t care if it’s lighter. I don’t mind sanding all purpose that much either but that it shrinks so much is a problem.
Reason I ask is I have tape bedded and a fill coat applied with all purpose and I wanted to use topping compound but it’s very hard to find around here in the Boston area. Everywhere just has all purpose and the plus 3 but I managed to find one bucket. It won’t be enough for the job, I’m pretty sure, and I’m trying to decide if I want to take the time to find more or just use the plus 3 or even stick with all purpose. I definitely don’t want to get 10 square feet into a skim coat and realize the plus 3 is completely unsuitable for it.
Replies
Personally, I use Durabond for bedding tape.
I usually mix Easysand for all finishing coats. Unless I had large areas to finish, I have stayed away from all bucket mud as it often crusted up or began to stink the next time I dove into the bucket.
After accumulating a couple hundred + buckets over the last century, I didn’t need any more. I probably still have at least well over 50, plenty enough for mixing powder, storing kindling, sand, sawdust, and wood ash for the icy drive and sidewalk.
Bagged compound lasts forever and now retired I may finish only a couple times a year when enticed.
I used to have a lot of buckets. But people would ask if they could have one or 2, and I gave a lot away.
I'm not sure how many I have now- maybe 15-20? And I've resorted to buying a few. I'm putting the buckets I have now into my will. Someone can have them when I'm dead.
Regarding the original question- I never got into the bagged compounds much, except for repairs where I'd use one of the faster setting compounds. I bed with the green lid compound, and finish with the blue lid.
I did the durabond/easysand combo when I did a small bathroom. This time I have the whole 2nd floor to do and I'm not that fast so I'd spend weeks running up and down the stairs once an hour to clean out the pan and mix up more compound. Plus I'm using a lot of no-coat and the manufacturer recommended all purpose. I pre-filled all the joints with durabond so it's in there.
On the bright side, having dealt with the durabond, the all purpose doesn't seem as difficult to sand as everyone makes it out to be.
C’mon man,
Take the mountain to Mohammed. Bucket of clean water to mix, bucket to mix the compound in (no pan), not so good bucket to clean the tools and mix bucket waste water.
I only use a pan for small patch jobs.
Get all that upstairs and you waste no more time or energy.
And as usual, best of luck!
thinking this might help you decide - table didn't paste in the best format but I think you get the idea - easy sand 210 should work for you even with the stairs (lol)
I prefer the setting compounds since they don't wash off when they get wet, and I sometimes wet sand the walls to smooth the surface
Plan B is calling a plaster guy to skim everything for me, paint it a week later
good luck
PROFESSIONAL GRADES AND USES
Product
USG Sheetrock® Brand Easy SandTM 5
USG Sheetrock® Brand Easy SandTM 20
USG Sheetrock® Brand Easy SandTM 45
USG Sheetrock® Brand Easy SandTM 90
USG Sheetrock® Brand Easy SandTM 210
Working Time (mins.)
5
20
45
90
170
Setting Time (mins.)
10–14
25–35
50–65
95–120
170–270
Ok, my fault for mentioning the stairs. Climbing the stairs isn't a big hurdle, having to clean and remix is periodically was a pain. I'm aware of the 210 but it's hard to find around here. If I went that route I'd be in the same boat I'm in now. Anyway, I've gone the setting compound route, I'm going to with drying this time.
I’m not a professional drywaller, but I am a carpenter who does commercial work and I pay attention to what the guys are using. All the crews around here use green lid (all purpose) for bedding and plus three tinted for the top coats. Should work fine for your application.
Is it normal for an aluminum hawk to bend? I've been having trouble wiping knives on the edge and finally noticed that the corners droop so the edges are curved. The hawk isn't that old. Did I get a junky one?