I have two spots where floor joists (engineered wood I) will dead end into an LVL.
I also have a spot where two LVL’s Tee into another double LVL.
I looked at the Simpon Strong-Tie catalog.
Two questions …
One … Where the wood I hits the LVL, they make a top-flange hanger and a face hanger.
They are about the same price. The top hangers have a higher strength. They are also probably easier to use as they will self locate off the top of the LVL
My only thought is, won’t they leave a “bump” in the floor sheeting as they sit between the sheeting and the LVL?
Same problem with the hanger for the LVL to LVL connection.
They again have a top mounted hanger and a face mounted (the face mounted is more expensive and will not handle as much of a load).
I could use 2 ” (1/4″ thick) angle iron with some 1/2″ bolts … not engineered but way heavier than any hanger I could purchase.
If it was just he thickness of the metal, I would not be concerned but the hangers are formed with ridge on the flat hanger part.
Never used these before … just a bit worried about the floor flatness.
Thanks!
Mike
Replies
Use the top hanger,. If the floor is critical I use my grinder to make a divot in the plywood
ie tile floor. Generally, it won't make that much of a difference, but I an A.R. so I use the grinder a lot
Thanks! Just had never used one before ... wanted to make sure I was not going to cause myself any problems.
Both styles of hangers (top flange and face mount). Usually the face mount load capacity, though lower than top flange style, will be more than adequate. I have hollowed out the subfloor as suggested by bing0328 and I've subfloored right over without prep for the bump. The subfloor adhesive will feather the bump so it's not significant enough to notice.
I wouldn't try fabricating a home-made hanger.
Thanks ...
This is only a workshop ... but I want to get it right having never used hangers before.
I don't like the idea of making a hanger / joint. I am just a bit worried that any hanger will get in the way when I put in the stairs. I was planning to run the stringer right into the corner where the LVL stair header meets the LVL floor joist (I have a double in both cases ... can you say overkill).
Thanks .... Mike
There's a trick for that problem where the stringers meet at the inside corner where a hanger will be. Actually two tricks. One is to hold back the stringers 1/2 in. or more. The other is to spread the trimmer joists at the opening back an extra 1-1/2 in. Put the hangers on. Then pad the trimmers with scrap 2x blocks. Depending on whether you'll finish the opening or not you can fill the entire area (if unfinished ) or just blocks every 12 in to 24 in apart if drywall will cover. The block will cover the hanger flange at the inside corner so the stringers can be snug to the block without interference.
Thanks!
That makes complete sense to me. This is just a stairway to an attic area above the workshop. It won't be finished ( or at most with a piece of osb).
I am just finishing up the walls ... 16" TJI joists are here ... LVL's should be here next week.
Time to make adjustments now.
I am just finishing the last few wall sections.
Thanks again!
Mike
Almost forgot ... my wife has been putting up some videos of my build.
"Real" builders may get a good chuckle when they see me running so I don't get crushed by a wall that slipped off the telehandler.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYAzdvTKwlfPxOTVmYMoAjg
Thanks again!
Mike