We removed a wall from our dining room to increase the size to 8×13(from 8×10) and open up to our kitchen. Part of the wall was an archway that was removed. After opening the wall, it was discovered that 3 of the 7 joist in the room are not continuous. The joists are spaced every 15″ across the 8ft room. They were over the archway that was removed. The 3 joints that are not continuous are butted end to end. 10 ft is continuous from house frame. The other side is 3 ft if not longer. The rest is buried under the ceiling connecting with the load bearing wall. The ceiling joists are parallel to the joists in the floor. There is a second floor loft bedroom above. We live in Wisconsin.
We have an architectural engineering coming to review and do a structural analysis. I wanted to have some options to talk through with him. Our contractor was recommending a load bearing post on each end perpendicular to the joist and run a beam across that would sit below the ceiling. We do not want to do this at all. I will look awkward in the room to have a random beam sticking down a third of the way in the room. We want to have a flush ceiling all the way across.
Can we brace the joists with another 2X8″ between each the non-continuous joists OR A way to bury the beam in the ceiling OR are there any other ideas we can review with him?
Thanks
Jenn
Replies
You can't practically "brace"
You can't practically "brace" the split joists. You principle alternatives are a visible beam, a recessed beam, or replacement of essentially the entire length of the split joists.
Beam
Sounds like a recessed beam is a good option.
Build a temporary support wall on each side of the butted joist ends, Remove the drywall at the butt area and down each wall along the the sides. Use a built of beam or paralam beam as direct by the structural engineer, Cut the now exposed joist end back to accecpt the new beam width and lift it in place. Use temporary bracing to hold it up, but set them out fron the wall cuts at each end. Add permenent support post to each end in the wall cut area. Continue blocking beneath each support post to the foundation wall beanth, or add a post to beneath as needed to transfer the load to the foundation or footings. then add joist hangers to the cut ceilig joist to tie them to the new beam. Close up the ceiling and wall opening with drywall or plaster to match the current finish.
Expect to pay considerably more for this, over an exposed beam, However in either case the important part is to make sure the load bearing ends of any beam transfer the load to the foundation either by the use of post or blocking. Anything less will result in some future deflection in the floor system above and below.
And it should be noted that the remaining solid joists will have to be cut, to insert the beam.
Is a sister joist an option?
Is a sister joist an option on the 3 joists?
Sistering the joists could work.
You would need to sister on pieces long enough to develop the moment capacity of the joists.
This may entail ripping out considerably more ceiling to do.
Without seing this first hand, or at least seeing a well done drawing, I can't really say more.
Talk to your engineer, and express your concerns. If they are experienced thay should be able to give you several options, and an estimate of the costs fo the options to allow you to make an intelligent decision in balancing your esthetic desires, and the costs involved, before they give you a final design. They will be charging by the hour, so don't waste too much money hemming and hawing. But, do take the time to ask any questions you have, and get answers you understand.