Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 08, 2000 05:11am | #9

   *
   my in-laws are having a bathroom re tiled.here is the catch when they opened up the wall they discovered that below the window(pour place for a window)the sill,cripples,and king stud and trimmer on 1 si8de 0f the opening were wet and black.tile guy said "it's not a problem i'll just cover it back up"

   stopped by today to look at it.the cripple, trimmer and king stud were so rotten that I could pull themm apart with littl;e effort.pulled insulatiion back and sheathing on wall(osb) was moldy wet and also was able to dig a 2" by 1" hole with just my fingers.

   advised the folks to consult with struct eng and ins companies and tell tile guy to hold off for a couple of days.

   2x6 balloon frame wall approx 1 1/2 storys no apparent load on 51'' header town house built 1984

   whats your opinion

   jim

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 05:53am | #1

   *can you get to the top and bottom of these studs Jim?I'd replace them if possible. If not can you cut them out down to sound lumber and install sisters and cripples?Don't think you need an engineer, don't think insurance will pay.you got a water problem that needs addressed before covering anything up

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 12:34pm | #2

   *Let's not forget to figur out how the water got there in the first place: from the bath? Bad flashings?Replacing the framing without fixing the moisture source is about the same as the tile guy's approach, IMHO.Bob

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 01:50pm | #3

   *Jim, Good example why tile setters should not frame.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 03:25pm | #4

   *I don't think even a tilesetter is dumb enough to seriously think rot in the wall is ok. It's more likely this was a small job for him, he wanted the money for the job soon, and/or he wanted to get on to another job.Either way, he wasn't thinking of the homeowner at all, only his own pocket. I would can him now.

2. 
   Guest_ | May 04, 2000 08:41pm | #5

   *If the window is the source of the water, it sounds like you are going to have to re-flash. based on the extent of the rot, it sounds like some re-sheathing might be in order also. In this case, I would open the whole section of the wall, and work from there, this way you can make sure to get plenty of meat on your attaching your new members

3. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 04:13am | #6

   *Had a job like that once. Had to pull the tub and remove the exterior siding. Even replaced the window. It was costly.

4. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 04:27am | #7

   *If the window is in a shower consider: (1) Taking the window out and closing up the opening, (2) Making the window smaller by raising the sill, (3) Tileing up to the window and "pitching" the sill so it drains, (4) Disconnecting the shower head, or (5) closing up the wall and selling the house.

5. 
   Guest_ | May 05, 2000 04:32pm | #8

   *If it's a window in a shower (always a dumb place to put a window, but that's another thread) then another solution is to cover it over with glass block. And if you haven't put an exhaust fan in do so as part of this project. In most places a window will meet code for ventilation (don't know why this is allowed, but that may just be me) but you'll be a lot happier with a good fan.

6. 
   Don_J | May 08, 2000 05:11am | #10

   *Jim,I certainly agree your advice was good. The tile guy is no doubt making a seat of the pants judgement that nothing will fall down. If the damage is localized to the area you describe and the cause is recognized as moisture and you can see the area is not heavily loaded and hasn't moved, you shouldn't really need a structural engineer. You could get a good carpenter to repair the framing which may not include having to replace every piece. You could "sister" some wood with new nailed to old. (I'd use treated wood for this problem prone small area). Then, of course, you need to deal with the source of the water. Another thought, in some areas of the contry this situation would be an invitation to termites.