I have a single story Cabin from 72′ On piers, with a 25 foot span. Also a bearing wall at 12 feet, down the middle. I want to attach a gable Dormer, type of sun room about 10′ out from the side wall. Which would attach to about 10′ of the roof line. The old main roof Trusses have a King post in the center of each 24″ o.c. . I am wondering about the possibility of opening up the ceiling under the main roof, and cutting back the trusses to the center wall. And Removing them. Cutting them in half. I don’t know if the trusses are nailed to the center wall. But I know they could be. This would allow me to extend the cathedral ceiling from the sunroom, Back into the main living area.
Anyone done this or tell me why I can’t ? I know, I know, “just say No” when it comes to cutting trusses.
I am thinking I could sheath the trusses above the bearing wall, from the plate to the peak, On those King posts. to give it more bracing. Then I could run My ceiling into it. Otherwise my ceiling will have to stop short at 10′ at the exterior wall. which is ok too. But Wouldn’t it be cool.
I am thinking this would be done after the dormer is in place because of the slow schedule of operations. eventually the whole house wil get a new roof. Any advice would be appreciated.
Where there’s A wheel there’s a way, got any wheels?
Replies
I may be wrong on this but from what it sounds like you may be ok. Normally trusses clear span, don't load on the center wall. If this is a manufactured truss, i.e. metal plates at wood connections, you should get a local truss manufacturer to come out and look first. If it looks hand built, i.e. plywood gussetts at connections your king post may very well be load bearing. If so that with your relative short span, 12 feet, you should be able to temporally support and rebuild your roof. Your local truss manufacturer may even have some unique labor and money saving ideas.
Assuming the center wall of the main floor lines up under the truss king post and over the center bearing wall under the floor it seems like you could get away with it.
I'd like to hear Boss Hogg's opinion, though.
Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.
Well, ya know when it come to threads about trusses I'm gonna jump in. Like it or not......................(-:
As Hasbeen pointed out, the center wall would absolutely HAVE to be bearing for this to work. And you'd have to have headers in the openings in that center wall. And whatever was UNDER the wall would have to be adequate to support the revised structure.
It sounds like the idea may be workable offhand. But someone knowledgeable needs to physically look at it to make sure it all works. (And will meet local codes and loading conditions)
Education is when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get if you don't.
Thanks for the Input.
I was hoping to get your attention there boss. I have not seen the truss itself. I have a blue print from the time it was built in 1972. The center wall is definitely load bearing. I can see it on the print. But As you say I must find someone else to blame, if it caves in this winter. So thats what I will do. Thanks again Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
I'm a little curious -
In your first post, you said: "The old main roof Trusses have a King post in the center..." But in that last post you said: "I have not seen the truss itself."
Those 2 statements seem to contradict each other. Or did I miss something?A fool is quick tempered; a wise man stays cool when insulted. -- Proverbs 12:16
Ahhh yes, I saw the print. I have yet to see the truss, But I will very soon. The print also called for a block foundation wall , with a top course of solid block, How ever the wall is cast. All the way down.
I am planning to layout the roof, Ridge pole about a foot below the ridge of the main roof. I don't excpect the trusses to line up for me. My plan is to add some blocking in the attic crawl space. Then I can attach everything. I figure on 2 x 8s flat on the roof down to above the top plate. Attached to the top of the trusses thru the roof, to recieve my valley rafters. Any advice? I am trying to leave the shingles in place as well . possibly sometime down the road we can open it up from in side.
Where there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
Edited 7/18/2003 1:30:07 PM ET by MuleSkinner
Well, that explains it.
People who draw prints aften draw webs in on trusses, without regard to how they're typically built.
A 25' truss most likely has webs shaped like a "W", so there is no kingpost. But you'll never know until you get a look at them. The sex was so good that even the neighbors had a cigarette.
your too quick boss , you missed my edit now you have to read it againWhere there's A wheel there's a way, got any wheels?
You're just trying to make me look bad, aren't you ??? Changing your posts AFTER I've replied to them?...................(-:
My advice is still basically the same - Have someone look at the situation first hand. Find somebody like me locally, and offer them a weekend stay or something if they'll come out and look it over. Did you hear about the Trojan and Pillsbury merger? They want to create a self-rising condom.