FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

k-snap hanger & drip edge ?

rl36 | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 10, 2005 12:43pm

Does anyone have a good way to make a standard drip edge work with the Plastmo k-snap vinyl gutter/hangers? There appears to be no good way to get the gutter under the drip edge. Of course I did’t notice any of this until after purchase of SS drip edge and the gutter 100 miles from here.(drip edge is 21/2″ to roof & 11/2″ down with kick,  5/12 slope.)  thanks russ ore coast

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 01:14am | #1

    The design of the K-snap fastener is intended to keep the back of the gutter from contacting the fascia. That way it will be able to dry, and stay dry instead of rotting out.

    It sounds like the problem you have is that the roof edge has no drip strip at the top of the fascia to hold the metal drip edge out away and is draining directly down the facia instead.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  2. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 01:28am | #2

    Here's a quick sketch of what it should look like in section. What is different about yours?

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!



    Edited 4/9/2005 6:29 pm ET by piffin

    1. dIrishInMe | Apr 10, 2005 02:48am | #3

      Interesting... what is that beveled piece of lumber under the drip edge... Is that standard practice where you live?  We commonly put "shingle mold" or a 1x4 on the rakes but never on the horizontal fascias. Matt

      1. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 05:55am | #4

        on the drip bottom is where it is most needed. It is used in every place I have ever worked. Florida, Texas, Colorado, and now Maine. Fancier classical style places have a crown type molding instead of the one by.The idea is to get the water drip out away from the fascia because otherwise it will run down that face and destroy it earlier. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 06:11am | #5

        If you don't have that strip, you will probably need to get plain AL gutter so it can tuck up under the eave edge you have. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. rl36 | Apr 10, 2005 06:48am | #6

      Mine has the "K" style gutter with the hangers on top. They actually hold the gutter about a 1/4' out from the fascia. But the brackets themselves would require the edge to be out about an inch from fascia to direct any water coming back into the gutter. There is a 2x6 sub fascia and a 2x8 fascia with the 5/8ths cdx flush with the front of fascia. The drip edge does not have the protrusion straight out from sheathing like your drawing. It simply breaks down over the edge of the sheathing and fascia. Possibly by holding the drip out 1" and the edge of the roofing (tech) out another 1/2" it would get the water mostly in the gutter. Other than the wind here there is no snow or ice problems. And even if some water got on the fascia it could run off and dry easily as you said. I read your advice alot on this forum and appreciate your time concerning my problem. By the way this is my own shop I am building 76x24x10+ceiling. Thanks russ

      1. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 07:34am | #7

        I am familiar withthe Ksnap profile. I did draw that schematic with a space betwen facia and gutter and top support. I have the Ksnap on my own house and have used it on about four others. I like it, but if you lack sufficient overhang, you will need a different gutter system 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. dIrishInMe | Apr 10, 2005 02:35pm | #8

          Not meaning to hijack this thread - I think Piffin has the guy on the right track - but I'd like to hear from others as weather that strip that Piffiin pictured under the drip edge is commonly installed on horizontal fascias where you live? Matt

          1. steelbuddha | Apr 10, 2005 04:37pm | #9

            Never seen one before this thread. I've worked on houses in GA, SC, and NC.

          2. Piffin | Apr 10, 2005 06:21pm | #10

            No intent to insult you personally, but those are the states where we hear the most complaints about the quality of contruction workin general too 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. dIrishInMe | Apr 11, 2005 01:21pm | #11

            Anyone else got a thought on those 'drip edge boards' or whatever they might be called?  The ones Piffin showed in his 56798.3  drawing right under the drip edge?   Matt

          4. Shoeman | Apr 11, 2005 06:16pm | #13

            I have seen and installed them here in Minnesota.  One guy I worked with called it a freize board - not sure that is the right term though.

            Not sure how common they are either.  Haven't done a lot a roofs.  Will have to keep my eyes out for it now.

          5. seeyou | Apr 11, 2005 10:47pm | #14

            It's called a shingle mould when its installed on the rakes, so we call it shingle mould when its on the eaves as well - don't know if that's right or not.I'll have it done right on schedule...................Mine. 

          6. dIrishInMe | Apr 11, 2005 11:59pm | #15

            Is it a common detail on the eaves of modern houses where you live/work?

             

             Matt

          7. seeyou | Apr 12, 2005 12:06am | #16

            It's an old detail. It's normally used with cedar shingle roofs in lieu of drip edge.I'll have it done right on schedule...................Mine. 

          8. woodguy99 | Apr 12, 2005 12:14am | #17

            I've worked in Maine, Massachusetts, and Washington State, and they are common in all those places but by no means universal.  One alternative used in Maine and Mass is to run a course of cedar shingles projecting 2" or so out from the fascia, serving the same purpose as a drip edge.  A metal drip edge may or may not be used underneath the wood drip edge.

            Shoeman, a frieze is a horizontal board at the top of an eave wall.  If there is no eave overhang, frieze and fascia are interchangeable terms.  If there is an overhang, the fascia is the outermost board, and the frieze is underneath the soffit.

             

            Mike

          9. theslateman | Apr 12, 2005 02:03am | #18

            If I were using a metal drip edge in conjunction with cedar shingle,I would use the metal on top of the wood to keep water out of the end grain of the cedar.The wood would be used to keep the drip line out further-something to support drip edge and shingles.

          10. Notchman | Apr 12, 2005 04:06am | #19

            The only places I've seen this feature is on some older houses with molded wood gutters, with the "bumpout" extending over the inside of the gutter.

            BTW,  Those old wooden gutters, which may be attractive artifacts to some, are, IMO, one of the most wasteful uses of a natural resource on the planet.

            In an old growth mill where I worked for a number of years, they were a commodity:  Just imagine taking a 40' piece of 5" X 5"  old growth Doug fir and hogging a  solid wood  gutter out of it.  (1/3rd of that wood became shavings!).

             

            Now, back to the issue at hand;  I know Pif lives on an island where continuous gutters are difficult to come by, but that eave trim board, as he acknowledged, is not necessary when installing a gutter that can slip up behind the drip edge.  And if you use a drip edge that overhangs the fascia, all the better.

            Continuous gutters can be had in aluminum, galvanized and painted steel, copper, or stainless, depending on the capabilities available in your area.

            Not to be contrary, but, again IMO, those K-snap gutters are a last resort.

          11. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 01:16am | #23

            Whoa, maybe you misunderstand a few things.
            One is this idea of waste. Take a good wood gutter and it is properly installed, making it look an integral part of the house and all its exterior trim detailing, and maintian it, and it will out last you. Most of the ones I do repairs to around here are over a hundred years old, and they probbaly wouldn't need near as much repairs if the owners and caretakers took care of them right. Compare that to an AL or PVC gutter that gets rep[laced every 15 - 20 years and talk to me about waste. There is absolutely no comparison for tastefull appearance on the house. The wood wins hands downContinuous? Yes, we can get that our here quite easily. The truck rides the ferry over, and the hacks put up the gutter rthe same day they manufacture it right there. Then tjhe rot sets in behind it, and sometime in the next five to twenty years, the ice tears it off the house. In the meantime, some HO or painter or chimney sweep or satellite installer puts a ladder against it and dents it in so it looks like it ran into a flying moose... 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          12. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 12:30am | #21

            The guys I work with here call it a rainboard.re your comment on the cedars instead of...
            when I have seen the cedars used, the metal edge went over tham. If the water can contact the cedar, it tends to wick it up behind the asphalt shingle where it doesn't dry and those cedars rot out faster tahn on a plain old cedar roof. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          13. woodguy99 | Apr 13, 2005 01:13am | #22

             Rainboard...I like it.

            I never was that happy with the detail of cedar over metal, seemed redundant, but on Nantucket that's how the guys I worked for did it.  On other old houses I've seen just the wood dripedge.  Makes sense to run the metal over the cedar.

             

            Mike

          14. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 03:32am | #24

            I lived in one out west with the cedar just alone under the asphalt shingles. It had growth of green stuff bulging out all along the edge... 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          15. woodguy99 | Apr 13, 2005 03:46am | #25

            Huh--most of my friends out west have the green stuff growing inside the roof space....

             

            Mike

          16. MisterT | Apr 12, 2005 12:41pm | #20

            We usually extend the plywood out 1" or so then either paint the exposed under side or slide some J-channel up under the drip to hide the ply.

            Or use pre dipped cedar shingles as a drip with or without alum. over them

            Any method to get the drip line out towards the center of the gutter. 

            Pete for POPE!! <!----><!---->

             <!---->

            "Almost certain death, small chance of success.... What are we waiting for???"

          17. user-53014 | Jul 01, 2009 01:07am | #26

            I've read it i called a kant or cant strip. On my house it is @5". beveled at top (under slates) and rabbetted 3/4" on bottom which rests on back wall of wooden gutter.

          18. steelbuddha | Apr 11, 2005 02:03pm | #12

            >> No intent to insult you personally, but those are the states where we hear the most complaints about the quality of contruction workin general tooNo offense taken. My branding strategy is to be the "un-" building tradesman. People tend to be blown away by professional business conduct and good work.Much of South Carolina didn't have any building code enforcement or inspections until recently. Georgia still doesn't require GC licensure. North Carolina has several "boom towns," and the response has been a couple of generations of houses that probably wouldn't be accepted in a lot of other places.As to the unidentified drip edge component, I coudn't find anything about it in any of my reference books. Is it possible it's peculiar to New England? Interesting.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips

Learn how the pros keep their hand tools sharp without breaking the bank.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data