Was looking at Gary Katz’s Crown Molding dvd (excellent btw) and see he uses a two-part adhesive to pre-assemble crown returns.
One mitred surface is smeared with ‘glue’ from a squeeze bottle, the other mitred surface is sprayed with what is probably a catalyst. Takes maybe 10 seconds for the joint to set up ready for pinning.
Can you guys recommend brands of quick-set adhesives that are good to use in these circumstances?
Replies
http://fastcap.com/prod2.asp?page=2p10kit
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10954
I use either of these two brands all the time with great results. Make sure you get the debonder. I didn't think I'd need it either. I did.
CA glue is amazingly strong. No need to pin joints. Works great on Azek too.
Just got a Fastcap catalog yesterday. They have several 2P10 kits with everything needed. A few other nifty items in there too--they'll probably get me for an impulse buy.
I'm sure it's good stuff, but it seems a bit expensive. I used to build model airplanes and I used CA a lot. Here's the stuff I used to use:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT38&P=ML
I got the Fastcap catalog the same day. They always come up with something clever, a real "why didn't I think of that" company."This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
Thx.
Do these CA glues work well on MDF?
I've been using it some mdf trim on a job I'm doing now and it seems to be working just fine, I'm using the jel (thickest) version.
Have to listen to Chuck, I've never tried it on mdf. Don't see why it wouldn't work though."This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
I really hate to show my ignorance (though you would think that I should be use to it by now) but what does CA stand for?
Cyanoacrylate.http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10562Hope that works.Glenn
Thanks. No CAs available locally, but Lee Valley sells two products:
HOT STUFF (very thin) and SUPER T (thin syrup). Gees, this stuff is expensive. None of it has the convenience of the spray that Katz uses on his crown dvd.
Thanks for the input guys.
Try this, http://www.indform.com/ they are in poco. Great products, I use them all the time.
Thx. I've used their G2 epoxy and found it to be excellent in every way.
When I discovered their epoxy, I made some hockey sticks, just to test the strength.
Indestructible!
It'll work on almost anything. The 2P-10 from Fastcap is what Gary is probably using. As an aside, that whole story lends a little credibilty to Katz to me. Fastcap and him dont actually get along too well. They dont sponsor him or anything. He just likes their stuff. That takes a little wind out of the sails of the argument that he hawks peoples wares for the money. I dont buy that.
But I wouldnt use it on traditional miter joints. I suspect in his video he has a small crown return piece. Returns are the perfect place to use the stuff. On a long board, you've still got other forces at work on the joint over time, and in the long run, yellow glue will probably hold better. CA is very strong but very brittle and subject to fracture.
If you glued two short boards edge to edge, you'd never be able to break the bond trying to shear them. But if you dropped the two on the floor it'd split apart clean.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
RW, have you ever actually used 2P10?
I learned about it watching Gary Katz glue up 4 or 5 inch miters, in person at JLC Live a few years ago. Since then I have used it a lot--probably a gallon of adhesive total. You can't break a long grain joint, I don't care how you apply the force. Even end grain joints are sturdy. I haven't had any complaints yet after three years.
The only downsides are that it's expensive and it sets up too quickly for traditional glueups."This is a process, not an event."--Sphere
I use it all the time. Its still a CA. Whack it hard once and see what it does.Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
We use the Hi-Pur hot melt. The 30 second set in the green tube. I'm pretty happy with it, and it dries nice and strong. But being a polyurethane, it tends to expand the joint a little, so you have to use it sparingly.