Hi. I’ve loved FHB for years but this is my first time in this forum. I need to run something by you all. Here’s my question.
I’m ordering two french doors to be put into a new house. The framing is not yet started but the wall in questions will be 2×6 with 1/2 sheathing and 5/8 drywall.
the designer wants the drywall to have a bullnose at the door jamb and end in a kerf which the door manufacture can provide. So i’m not sure what the jamb size should be. Normally I’d get 6 11/16 but I’m thinking I need the jamb to be 5/8 less on the interior side to allow for the return. If correct we are somewhat committed to this detail.
The jambs are made from 5/4 material and i’m figuring that i’ll need to put in some sort of plinth block after drywall but before the bullnose goes on and they can just but the bullnose into the plinth block.
I’m i thinking correctly?
Thanks for any feedback
Replies
I don't know what you mean about the drywall ending in a kerf in the jamb since the drywall will be proud of it, but here is a discussion that might prove helpful.
Proper term would probably be a rabbet in that jamb, but I would use an unrabbeted jamb sized flush with framing, then a bullnose J-trim on the SR overlapping it, and caulk the joint.If this gets pulled bak enough for a full return where a rabbet would be needed, then the door would not open in, she would need an outswing door with all the problems that go with them
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I couldn't agree more with your comments on the designers responsiblities.
Extended leaf hinges would easily overcome the situation.[email protected]
If that is what the designer wants, that is something the designer should detail how opt accomplish.
See how simple that is?
I feel a rant cpoming on - it isn't directed at you, but I get so tired of "designers" coming up with cockeyed schemes and then letting somebody else deal with their headache and the nightmares and liabilities they create.
For instance, how will the door swing all the way open and what is to prevent this return from cracking and openning up as the jamb shrinks and moves from vibratiosn of the door operating?
I do think there are ways to do this, but it is the "designer"'s job to deal with it. Make him grow up and earn his pay.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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"Plaster return jambs" are an everyday part of biz in any door shop out in the southwest . . . from Albuquerque to San Diego, and way up from there.It is a regional thing, Pif, so put away your rant and let someone familiar with the method comment for the OP so he can get going with this.
So you are saying the designer has no responsibility to detail how to accomplish what they want?
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No. Not at all.And as for this particular instance, until you are privy to all the information, all the drawings, details, notes, specs, sketches, verbal communications, etc., this designer has used to communicate the strategy for this plaster return situation, there is no reason to go off and criticize.Furthermore, there is nothing at all wrong with an architect drawing a detail he or she would like to see accomplished, but that he may not know in detail how to execute best. It is done all the time, and in the best of situations, things get worked out very well by a collaborative effort between builder and architect, with mutual respect maintained.
I need to clarify. Designer knows what it should look like and working together to figure stuff like this out is part of our agreement. So i'm not being treated unfairly.
Here is a sketch that i just did to better explain what i'm thinking
thanks for all the feedback
Ross
Nice pictures. What did you use to draw those with?
What is the purpose of the kerf in the jamb?? In your first post you said something about putting in a plinth block. Is this just for use as a dead stop for the bull-nose? Sorry I cant help at all, I dont have any experience with drywall returns.
You may want to fill out your profile ( click on your name in upper left corner of post, "From:" or "To:" section, then click on edit profile), gives people a little info about yourself.
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hi
those sketches are done with google sketchup which is free and very useful. Check it out at google.com.
it seems like the kerf is useful since it would allow the jamb to expand and contract while keeping the bullnose-jamb interface tight. I'm figuring i'll just use some "Big Stretch" caulk at the joint and then cut in the paint right on that joint.
To clarify the plinth block --- this is for the base board. I hope I can just but the bullnose into the plinth if I put the plinth on after drywall but before the bullnose. It will still need to be an L-shaped block to get to the jamb though. Otherwise I will need to miter the base at 22.5 degrees with 2 turns around the bullnose or cove out the back of the block around the bullnose. Alternatively I could return the baseboard before getting to the bullnose and have the bullnose go down to the subfloor and then be meticulous with cutting the hardwood floors around the bullnose. Hmmmmm.
Thanks for all the feedback. I'll update my profile to. thanks for the tip
Ross
Looks like you have it jsut about right. Trimtex makes the edge you want.
http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/34bull.htmOne for kerfed
3/4" R. Bullnose Kerfed BeadAnd one for no kerf.
3/4" R. Bullnose J RoundI see no reason for the kerf and still see some potential drawbacks to having it there.
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I did bullnose on a house a few years ago before i knew they made molding for it. I used a roundover bit on all the jambs, then used paper tape to wrap from the jamb stop to the sheetrock, using yellow glue. I'll bet i could zip around a jamb faster than putting on a bead and the method certainly has financial charm as i avoided buying special hinges as well. I left the bottom of the door squared where the router base plate bottomed out in order to make dealing with base molding easier. I was concerned about wear on the paper, but bec it was backed with wood and fixed with glue instead of mud, it was every bit as sturdy as a plastic or metal corner. You don't get the extra reveal by dropping the jamb back from the wall, though.I've also never seen J-molding stocked here and kerfing the jambs looks like unnecesary work. If you don't match that detail on all the other jambs, i.e. kerfing the windows, it might seem out of place. Just some thoughts... i'm not a designer. <G>