I have a Kitchen remodel going on and this week will be the time to install the new cabinets.
The problem is the floor is out of level from left to right 1/2″ +, at the bottom of the U, the layout is in the usual fashion u shape kitchen. Normaly I use Tile and float the top which gives me a small bit of latatude for leveling, if I don’t get the base cabinet quite level while installing.
The thing which make the installation different is the client has chosen Cesar Stone and I can not float the top surface. For the finish floor we are using 3/4″ Maple hardwood flooring. I have never used the Cesar Stone before so I don’t know what to expect.
What methods do some of you all use for leveling the base cabinets other than shims.
The cabinet product is ( Kraftmade) From HD.
I had one thought of using self leveling concrete for the area which is in the worst effected area and feather it out and back?
Tony Czuleger
IMC Construction & Development, Inc.
Replies
Tony,
1/2" out of level is not uncommon. I seldom level floors unless they are more than 3/4" out of level.
I use composite shims stapled and glued to the floor and each other. Composite shims are more resistant to compression from stone countertops. The construction adhesive and staples are cheap insurance.
Baseshoe covers the 1/2" space where cabinets are shimmed up nicely.
When the floor is that far out of level, I level the layout from the low point. Then, scribe the cabinets to the level line.
I wish I had a reason;
my flaws are open season
You can use the above procedure but you'll want to keep an eye on the opening ht. for the dishwasher and any other appliance that the counter ht would affect.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Amen to that thought.
Just read the thread here in general Discussion titled "Cabinet Question" as to what happens when you don't use the dishwasher as the start point.
<You can use the above procedure but you'll want to keep an eye on <the opening ht. for the dishwasher and any other <appliance that the <counter ht would affect.And if the, to be installed floor, will raise the finished floor, more make allowances so you can get the D/W in....(a removable chunk of flooring in front of said d/w) don't ask how I came up with that suggestion.... LOL!Bud
Bud,
Last year I looked at alot of houses for my daughter and a couple of our close friends children. Starter homes. Most sucked, how can people live like that? Some were nice or could have some low keyed work to make nice. Almost all had lam. floors in the kitchens, most homowner done.
Every one of those trapped the dishwasher. Man, what a "you can do it" nightmare.
There's about 3 or 4 REAL important things to check when initially looking over a kitchen job. And that damn dishwasher opening is one of them. Hopefully a person can learn the lessons on these pages without having to use a shoe horn.
How bout those Dixie Chicks. I'm even more tempted to become a C&W fan. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Yea , that is a problem....I designed my own kitchen for 3/8 cherry t&g floor...Soooo,later, after granite tops in, and tile backsplashes in, an unnamed person decided that 3/4 hickory would be better,,, And "old whats his name", (me), had not adjusted the feet on the damn euro cabs up high enuff....fortunatly When I installed the floor I realized my f/u , and put a screw down board in front of it....A save, but really dumb....
Bud
Besides the DW what are the other 3 or 4 kitchen traps (no pum intended, but I thik that there is one someplace)..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 2/12/2007 12:44 am by BillHartmann
Bill. When I go to look at a kitchen job, laser goes on the counter-first thing, make note on a drawing of the topography-floor and ceiling. Floor ht tells the story on the DW, ceiling ht. tells the story on the soffit/crown detail.
Plumbing-what is wanted and what I got under the cab and beyond.
Electric panel-where and how full.
Logistics-What can I fit through the door, storage, work area.
After the layout is done, I run through all the above again and go over the cabs - drawer clearance-Refrigerator-will it fit in that hole, etc.
Ordering and delivery and then wondering WTF is not the way to do it............unless you are damn lucky or have a magic wand.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
1/2" out of level isnt all that bad.
In this case with the heavy counter tops I would shim with yellow pine shims, they come pre-bundled and will do what Bass is suggesting with his composite shims( I dont know where he gets them so I've never used em). The yellow pine shims are not going to compress like the cedar.
I normally use a skin on all toe kicks so I dont have to put down any base shoe but theres nothing wrong with that if you dont have skins as an option.
Doug
Thanks all for the replys.
Given the fact the D/W will be on the low side (left side of the U) I was going to rase this section 3/4" to match the hardwood floor and shim the back of the cabinets and then at the bottom of the U where the floor goes fron 1/2" + to -0- shim the cabinets front and back along this wall and then on the right leg shim the front of the cabinet given the fact the floor slopes down to the left leg of the U. Light weight concrete seems a bit much after hering from everyone. I will still have to deal with the free standing range. located at the bottom of the U wall.
The plastic shims are avalible at most of the lumber yards, HD and Lowes.
I do like the wood shims myself