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Kitchen Cabinet Paint

gcg | Posted in General Discussion on September 22, 2009 10:42am

Hi all,

I’ve built and painted a set of Kitchen cabinets before using a pre-cat CV from Sherwin Williams.  It was great provided you have a decent place to spray where the dry spray doesn’t settle. 

What I want to do now is spray my own cabinets in place in the kitchen.  I always see the shows where people have a service come and do it and I want to know what they are spraying.

It doesn’t need to be perfect by any means.  Its just a quick, cheap facelift for some old cabinets.  I’ll be using a HVLP system.  Any suggestions?

Thanks, 

 

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  1. Hiker | Sep 23, 2009 01:17am | #1

    I use SW pigmented conversion varnish on our painted projects.  I tried SW SOLO, a fast drying latex that does not block.  It worked out nice on a quick turn around trim project.

    Might be worth a try.

     Bruce

    1. Yersmay1 | Sep 23, 2009 01:42am | #2

      It's been several years, but I sprayed a kitchen on site with a product called Chem Aqua, a Sherman Williams waterborne lacquer. Probably not as tough as a real conversion varnish or catalyzed material, but it worked really well. They had a spectrometer and they were able to match color.

      1. gcg | Sep 23, 2009 05:56am | #3

        Thanks gents,So there is no secret magic bullet as I suspected. I liked the pigmented CV too but I found that if I had too many pieces in the booth at one time, the overspray/bounceback, would land on the stuff that had not dried yet and I would have a rough finish. As I said this project doesn't have to be perfect but I'm wondering how I'm going to keep this problem from being even worse when I'm spaying in a Kitchen instead of a spray booth. Ideas?

        1. Yersmay1 | Sep 23, 2009 06:31am | #4

          I'm hardly an expert... I just have my one experience of spraying a kitchen on site. I took the doors and drawers home to spray in a more controlled setting. Everything else took a lot of masking... it was very labor intensive. I used an HVLP set up which does a good job of not sending off clouds of lacquer, so the overspray was kept to a minimum. I ended up doing an extreme rub out anyway because I liked that result, but simple overspray can be rubbed out pretty easily without really 'cutting back' the finish to a dead flat and then building back sheen. Check out Abralon disks.

        2. TomT226 | Sep 23, 2009 02:02pm | #5

          Sherwin Williams Pro Classic 100% Acrylic works great.  I've gotten very good results using a very fine nap roller for carcases in-place, and shooting the doors outside.  The doors are what you mainly see anyway.  Inside corners are a PITA, but careful use of a spongue brush works.  Beats draping a whole kitchen. 

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