Big kitchen remodel, adding our first ever dishwasher, and buying a range that, although it’s a gas range, shows a 15 amp electrical rating. Some questions:
1. Should the circuit dedicated to the dishwasher use a GFCI breaker?
2. With the 15 amp rating on the range, I’m thinking I should dedicate a circuit to it. Should this use a GFCI breaker?
3. Am I correct in thinking that I can power the range vent hood from the lighting circuit?
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Replies
"1. Should the circuit dedicated to the dishwasher use a GFCI breaker?"
No need. The DW is grounded through the wiring. There is no need for a GFCI.
"2. With the 15 amp rating on the range, I'm thinking I should dedicate a circuit to it. Should this use a GFCI breaker?"
What is the on the range nameplate? I really don't know about gas ranges, but I would be surprised if it drew more than 1- 2 amps. And, unless it actually draws over 10 amps the code allows you to use a receptacle on one of the 20 amp kitchen small appliance circuits. My guess is that range should be connected to a minimum of a 15 amp circuit.
"3. Am I correct in thinking that I can power the range vent hood from the lighting circuit?"
AFAIK yes, but you want to look at the load. Some of the 5000 CFM, supercharged, turbo exhaust system with 5 ft dia vents might need a dedicated circuit.
I have heard that some local amendments require a dedicated 20 amp circuit becuase if MIGHT be replaced with a microwave/hood sometimes in the future.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
wow.....5:25 and 5:26.
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., wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
> "1. Should the circuit dedicated to the dishwasher use a GFCI breaker?"
>
> No need. The DW is grounded through the wiring. There is no need for a GFCI.It's not unwise to run a separate "bonding" wire to the DW frame, either clamped to known-to-be-grounded copper pipe or home-run to the electric panel ground. Any time you mix water and electricity some belt-and-suspenders grounding is a good idea.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
1. No.
provided the receptacle is only for the DW or not readily accessible, and is not easily moved.
.....GFIs are intended for the receptacles that serve the countertops.
2. No
.......for the same reasons as the dishwasher.
but I wonder if the 15 Amp rating is just a standard circuit rather than the full load of what ever electrics you have in the stove.
3. Yes, that's fine
good luck with your new goodies, now you'll have plenty of time for some other hobby....:)
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, wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
#1 What they said,
#2 The range probably only needs juice for a clock, a lite in the oven and the 'tick tick ticker' that ignites your flame,
#3 I wouldn't power the vent hood from the lighting circuit as it will likely dim the lights when you flick it on, then as well, if it does ever trip the lighting circuit, you'll burn the crap out of that big pork chop you were pan frying, and thus turned on the vent hood to clear, as you scurry around in the smoky darkness banging your toes into the doorjambs looking for the breaker box.
;-)
At least I know that's how it would go here at my place... if I fried pork chops on the range...
1. Should the circuit dedicated to the dishwasher use a GFCI breaker? No. GFCI devices protect persons, not appliances.
2. With the 15 amp rating on the range, I'm thinking I should dedicate a circuit to it. Should this use a GFCI breaker? Dedicated circuit is required. Forget the GFCI.
3. Am I correct in thinking that I can power the range vent hood from the lighting circuit? 15-amp lighting circuit is fine for an older home. Dedicated circuit is necessary when you install the (over-the-range) microwave/vent. BTW - New construction requires 7 dedicated circuits for the kitchen alone.
"2. With the 15 amp rating on the range, I'm thinking I should dedicate a circuit to it. Should this use a GFCI breaker? Dedicated circuit is required."Based on WHAT."3. Am I correct in thinking that I can power the range vent hood from the lighting circuit? 15-amp lighting circuit is fine for an older home. "Why wouldn't 15-amp circuit be fine for NEW HOME?"Dedicated circuit is necessary when you install the (over-the-range) microwave/vent. "But he did not say microwave/vent. He said VENT HOOD."BTW - New construction requires 7 dedicated circuits for the kitchen alone."No, it only required 2 (TWO) DEDICATED CIRCUITS. Of course it depends on the applicances that are used. But only TWO are required.And for most home, even with builtin appliances 5 dedicated circuits all that are required if a gas stove is used..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
"2. With the 15 amp rating on the range, I'm thinking I should dedicate a circuit to it."
The range may call for 15a circuit because of the oven igniter, which is usually a heating element that gets red-hot to light the gas burner. That thing uses some juice, probably as much as a toaster, I would guess. The sparkers are used only on the cooktop burners.
"The range may call for 15a circuit because of the oven igniter, which is usually a heating element that gets red-hot to light the gas burner. That thing uses some juice, probably as much as a toaster, I would guess. The sparkers are used only on the cooktop burners."The filaments in 7 watt bulbs get more than red hot, they get WHITE HOT.Off hand I don't know what the current draw of a hot surface ignitor is, but in general they don't need "toaster level power"..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
"The filaments in 7 watt bulbs get more than red hot, they get WHITE HOT. Off hand I don't know what the current draw of a hot surface ignitor is, but in general they don't need "toaster level power"."Try not to be quite so dismissive in your responses, Bill. Your 7W bulb example involves a filament as thin as a human hair versus a relatively thick coiled wire glowing hot enough to ignite natural gas - kinda like, well, a toaster.So I looked it up and found that oven igniters operate at 3.6A, which equals about 420W, too low for a toaster perhaps, but 60 times as much as your light bulb.
BruceT
Maybe I was not clear enough. A new home requires a minimum of 7 dedicated circuits for the kitchen: (1) waste disposer, (2) dishwasher, (3) cook top, (4) refrigerator, (5) lighting, (6) counter top receptacles, (7) electric oven, and (8) the microwave oven. See article 210 of the National Electrical code if you wish to verify my statement.
I'm not sure how listing 9 "required" dedicated circuits (since countertop outlets require 2), and then saying a minimum of 7 makes sense to me.
For starters, NEC 210.19(A)(3) exception 1 specifically allows cooktops, ranges, and ovens to all be on one large dedicated circuit, doesn't it ?
And NEC 210.52(B)(1) exception 2 specifically says a refrigerator doesn't need a dedicated circuit, doesn't it ?
I may just be out of date, but I can't find a code reference that says garbage disposals and dishwashers need separate dedicated circuits. Please supply a code reference more specific than article 210.
Note: I am not arguing what 'best practise' is or isn't - just questioning your statements about the NEC.
PS: of course, we're also waiting for the code reference that a gas stove requires a dedicated circuit.
Edited 4/16/2007 7:53 am ET by r
(1) waste disposer,
(2) dishwasher, What code requires that those be installed? If they aren't installed you don't need a circuit. And if they installed, depending on the nameplate data they can sometimes share a circuit.(3) cook top
(7) electric oven,This is a GAS RANGE. What code require a dedicated circuit for an electric oven if you DON'T HAVE ONE.And since this is an gas range the code specifically allows it to be served by counter top appliance circuits.And again if this is an electric range there is no separate electric over.And if it is a separate ELECTRIC cooktop and electric oven code allows then to be on one dedicated circuit.(4) refrigeratorCode has a specific exception that allows it to be on the small appliacne circuits.(5) lightingCode does not require a DEDICATED lighting circuit for the kitchen. The only thing is that it can't be on one of the appliance circuits. The lights can be on the same circuit with anyother lights in the house and most other receptacles except for the few receptacles that require dedicated receptacles (small appliance, bathroom, and washer).(6) counter top receptaclesNO. The code requires 2 (TWO) dedicated circuits for the counter tops.(8) the microwave ovenThere is no code requirement to provide a dedicate circuit for a microwave or even a non dedicated circuit.Now the code does require a clothes washer circuit, even if no clothes washer is installed.Forother portable appliances there is no other require than the small applaince circuits.Just like the DW and GD, IF it is permanately installed then if it draws more than 50% of the rated circuit it needs a dedicated circuit. Which is almost true for the MW, but always for the DW and GD.A fully functioning kitchen with gas stove and refigerator only needs TWO DEDICATED CIRCUITS. That is the code..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Mr Hartman, I always enjoy your clear answers and intelligent responses on breaktime. Its obvious you know what you're talking about. Can you help me please with a simple answer to kitchen circuitry?
If you were building a new home and had not picked out appliances yet...(and may not for some time, so i can't go look at the tag/plate)
What size wire and breaker would you run for a built-in oven/microwave combo unit? (Length of run to service is about 20 ft.) Would you by default use a heavier gauge wire like 6/3 with a 40 or 50 amp breaker or is 8 gauge okay?
What size wire/breaker would you run for a drop in cooktop that also is yet to ne determined?
Where would you mount the j-box for these given the above scenarios (Flush I presume, but center high for the oven, and center low for the cooktop?) I've looked at several brands literature and each seem to recommend something slightly different. Curious what a pro does when its not in black and white.
Also not knowing the specifics of dishwasher, disposal, refrig, would you run them all on their own circuit just to be on the safe side? I really expect to be buying just "average" appliances, nothing super expensive or exotic.
Anything else I'm forgetting?
I understand clearly the minimum requirements as explained in this thread about two circuits for receptacles, and another circuit for lighting. Just not sure about the unknown appliances.
Hope this makes sense. I truly appreciate the help I get from this forum.
Aaron
Edited 8/29/2007 11:11 pm by CRF
Sorry, but I am not a pro electrican. My background is in electrical engineering and that was in control systems. Now semi-retired and doing some handyman work. So my experience is limited to what I have seen that I have never installed an oven/cooktop.A typical stove and many cooktop/ovens can work off a 50 amp circuit. So if you run individual circuits for the cooktop and oven 50 amp would be very large.BY looking a several different brands and models, either check the labels in the stores or downoad the installation info you should get a good idea of the range of requirements.But I am STRICKLY GUESSING that 30 amp (#10) will be enough. If not 40 amp (#8).AS to the location of the j-box I would leave long stubs on the cable. In fact you can even leave it looped in the DW behind the cabinets (JUST MAKE CLEAR NOTES OF WHERE IT IS). Then when you have a specific applicance mount the J-box and cut off the excess cable. And if you left the cable in the wall then cut a hole in the cable at that point and fish out the cable."Also not knowing the specifics of dishwasher, disposal, refrig, would you run them all on their own circuit just to be on the safe side?"Yes, each one is close (10 amps on a 20 amp circuit) to requiring decicated circuits..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Picking out the appliances certainly sounds like what needs to be done. And we have spent some time already looking at this. Late last night i decided to search the old archives of breaktime to see what had already been discussed, and decided to pose the question to the great minds here.
Sounds like a deidcate 40a #8 for each the microwave/oven combo and also a decicated 40a #8 for the cooktop will be sufficient according to all the manufacturers data i've seen. Regarding placement of the J-box, they vary so i think i'll leave it inside the wall as suggested.
Will be putting the other applainces on their own 20a circuit also.
Do you think the cooktop venthood requires its own also?
Thanks for the valuable advice.
Aaron
very dangerous question.
I'm not an electrician either.
I am a remodeling contractor with alot of kitchen and bath experience.
when I'm not working my own designs with my own customers, I sub myself out as a kitchen installer.
My biggest word of advice ... nail down your appliance selections first.
everything ... from rough in's to cabinet layout ... revolves around this.
it has to be done sooner than later ... stop being lazy and handle it.
as an example ... and I just googled "Wolf Cooktop" to verify ...
last year ... we installed a Wolf Cooktop. Ran into a change order due to the electric.
I was the install sub, and included electrical and plumbing in my bid.
again ... I'm not an electrician ... nor plumber.
I have great mechanicals subs upon which I rely.
Luckily ... I spelled out in my bid ... a 30 amp drop for the cooktop ...
"yet to be selected" ...
if it was my own job ... there would not have been a problem. As that selection would have been already made.
anyways ... the K and B place questioned the change order ...
"why not just throw in a 40 if need be?"
because ... this particular cooktop ... required a 50amp run.
big time up charge ... that cable ain't cheap outta the panel!
don't assume anything when it comes to modern day kitchen appliances.
especially high end.
and especially import.
as a great electrician used to say ... "can't trust them fer'ners" ...
loosely translated ... he'd run some wire and tack it inside the drywall ...
and even the factory cut sheets were wrong 50% of the time.
easier and cleaner for him to get the rough close ...
then fish and final when he's looking at the back of the appliance.
but at least get set on the appliances first ...
so U know what gauge to run from what size breaker.
way too many options out there.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
"Curious what a pro does when its not in black and white."
nail it down first so U don't waste the clients money or the sub's time.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Sorry guys,
But this discussion is inane! I only worked as an electrician for a couple years, but if he doesn't know exactly what he is doing, he needs to hire a pro. Going on-line to get electrical advice is crazy. Most house fires are caused by bad wiring. Had friends die as electricians.
Hire a pro
Bill's got good suggestions about stubbing wires.
Based on my experience :
A typical drop-in cooktop takes either a 20a 240v or a 30a 240v circuit. A good place to locate the j-box is typically about 18" below the countertop, underneath the unit and somewhat to the right of center.
I've never seen a combination oven/microwave, so you're going to have to do some research for that. A typical single wall oven takes a 30a 240v circuit ( a double oven usually needs 50a) and the j-box usually needs to be located specifically where the manufacturor tells you to put it. This can be critical.
A typical wall-hung microwave takes a 20a 120v circuit, is plugged in and the receptacle outlet goes in the cabinet above the unit, usually on the right side.
Run a 3-wire 20a circuit to the cabinet under the sink for the disposal/DW and you'll be good. A separate 15a 120v circuit for the refer is good and should cover your needs for an average unit.
If you install your wiring first then the circuit sizes have been fixed and you need only to buy appliances that work with the rough-in.
Ed
Methinks Bill and Jeff have got it right.
20A dedicated lines for fridge, disposal, and dishwasher.
Nail down the appliance choice for oven and cooktop - this is the best solution.
If you or DW are suffering from "decision block" at least narrow the field to two choices. Get specifics for the two possibles and rough wire for the greater of the two. If "X" requires 30A and "Y" requires 40A - rough wire for 40A - you can always change out the breaker and "down rate" the wire at installation time.
>>Would you by default use a heavier gauge wire like 6/3 with a 40 or 50 amp breaker or is 8 gauge okay?<< You may need 6/4 if there is a 120v component - manufacturers can confirm (back to that best solution).
Manufacturer specs can be funny at first glance - like my heat pump which calls for 10/3 cu wire and a 25A max breaker - manufacturer is trying to limit voltage drop in this case.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
>>Would you by default use a heavier gauge wire like 6/3 with a 40 or 50 amp breaker or is 8 gauge okay?<< You may need 6/4 if there is a 120v component - manufacturers can confirm (back to that best solution).
Terminology. In the industry when referring to multi-conductor cable like romex or MC the designation doesn't include the ground wire. So 6/3 means black, red, white and ground and is identified as "3-wire plus ground". 6/4 would have an additional insulated conductor i.e. 5 wires total in the cable.
It's not completely consistent though since flexible cord (SO styles) are usually referred to by the number of wires contained, including the green. So 3-wire SO would be black, white and green.
FWIW.
Ed
You are so right - what was I thinkin'?
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Just spent yesterday moving a range hood exhaust duct , now need the electrician to move his electrical to it, as well as his leads to the range and micro. Brand new custom home , owners moving in in 2 weeks. Last minute change orders. Best to leave the wires in the walls and mark the location. What would have been a cheap fix now requires 5 trades to repair."Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca
If I had my way in designing the electrical in a kitchen, there would be a separate panel located near the kitchen, and serving it alone. The circuits would be as follows:
2 set aside for the range ... even if you have a gas stove. It's nice that they be available.
2 set aside for counter top receptacles alone.
1 set aside for the fridge.
1 set aside for the microwave.
1 set aside for the bread machine.
1 set aside for the disposal and dishwasher.
1 set aside for the bar / breakfast nook / etc.
1 set aside for the lighting. Wire and breaker sizes are determined by the equipment nameplates. Most appliances have 'cut sheets' available, that explain exactly where to place the wiring. Load calculations are best left to a licensed electrician.
"Maybe I was not clear enough. A new home..."Was this meant fort Bill?
BruceT
Wow. This is a long thread with some interesting opinions.
Even homes built in the '60s have separate circuits (but a shared neutral) for the waste disposer and the dishwasher. This cannot be disputed. Scoot your chair back and look at your electrical panel now.
We must agree that an electric oven needs a dedicated circuit (if you install a 220-volt electric oven).
If we agree that counter receptacles require two separate circuits, then how can a gas range be connected to the load side of this circuit. Further, if the GFCI tripped - would it shut down the power to that range?
A refrigerator is usually the second largest consumption of power in most homes. A dedicated circuit is needed here.
The microwave oven has "always" required a dedicated 20-amp circuit. Go to the manufacturer owners manual for installation recommendations: http://www.whirlpool.com/catalog/product.jsp?parentCategoryId=74&categoryId=90&subCategoryId=93&productId=428&view=2#tabs
If I am wrong, then new homes have too many circuits and we must believe that the builders have extra money to spend on things not required. I don'y buy that argument.
Or maybe inspectors are "over interpreting" the code. ;)
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Not sure if I would say "overinterpting" the code or not. I'll stay on the fence.
Where I think you may be confused is that the NEC is a minimal (sp) requirement. A home wired to code may or may not prove to be satisfactory to its occupants. Lots of times it is better to exceed the code. This can prevent call backs and unhappy customers. I've told a lot of people that a building that is built to code could end up being safe but still a lemon
Interesting how worded you comments." This is a long thread with some interesting OPINIONS."Yes, you have posted a number of opinions, but you never posted any FACTS to back them up."Even homes built in the '60s have separate circuits (but a shared neutral) for the waste disposer and the dishwasher. THIS CAN NOT BE DISPUTED. Scoot your chair back and look at your electrical panel now."No I won't dispute it. I have not checked EVERY HOME build in the 60's. But I will challenge you if you said that all homes with DW and GB had those.But I know that my home was build in 1979. As built it contains a DW, GD, trash compactor, and instand hot water dispensor all built in. Those are all on the 2 20amp small appliance circuit along with the refigerator and a counter top microwave.There are the 2 small appliance circuits, plus a range circuit.They all work find and have never tripped a breaker."We must agree that an electric oven needs a dedicated circuit (if you install a 220-volt electric oven)."Why MUST WE all agree? And who in their right mind would install a 220 volt oven on a 240 volt circuit.Instead look at what the code says."210.19 Conductors ù Minimum Ampacity and Size
...
(3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances Branch-circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 8 3/ 4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.Exception No. 1: Tap conductors supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and counter-mounted electric cooking units from a 50-ampere branch circuit shall have an ampacity of not less than 20 and shall be sufficient for the load to be served. These tap conductors include any conductors that are a part of the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the branch circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary for servicing the appliance. "Then the 2005 NEC handbooks goes on the the follow details;"Exception No. 1 to 210.19(A)(3) covers factory-installed and field-installed tap
conductors. A revision to the 2005 Code clarifies that the supply conductors included
in a factory-installed pigtail are considered to be tap conductors in applying this
exception. As illustrated in Exhibit 210.21, this exception permits a 20-ampere tap
conductor from a range, oven, or cooking unit to be connected to a 50-ampere branch
circuit if the following four conditions are met:
1. The taps are not longer than necessary to service or permit access to the
junction box.
2. The taps to each unit are properly spliced.
3. The junction box is adjacent to each unit.
4. The taps are of sufficient size for the load to be served."Exhibit 210.21 then has a drawing showing a both an oven and cooktop connected to single circuit.And in section 220.55 Electric Ranges and Other Cooking Appliances ù Dwelling Unit(s) which is used to compute the load factors. There is the following explanation in the handbook."If a single branch circuit supplies a
counter-mounted cooking unit and not more than two wall-mounted ovens, all of which are located in the same room, the nameplate ratings of these appliances can be added and the total treated as the equivalent of one range, according to Note 4 of Table 220.55."There is a gives an example of a single circuit for cooktop and oven.So we all MUST NOT AGREE."If we agree that counter receptacles require two separate circuits, then how can a gas range be connected to the load side of this circuit."What? An electrican and 99.35% of the DIY knows how to run a circuit from one receptracle to another. That statement makes no sense."Further, if the GFCI tripped - would it shut down the power to that range?"And if it did SO WHAT? WHAT KIND OF A PROLEM IS THERE WITH THAT OTHER THAN HAVING TO RESET THE CLOCK?And 95% of the electricans and 73% of the DIY know how to wire a circuit so that the countertops are GFCI protected, but not affect the receptacle for the gas stove on the samme circuit."A refrigerator is usually the second largest consumption of power in most homes. A dedicated circuit is needed here."Again just a statement without an fact.First where does this "usually the second largest consumption of power in most homes" come from. I have many other items that use more power. AC, dryer, range, microwave, toaster and if I had one the Electric WH. And if you go into the shop the space heater, the TS, the planer, the joiner, the bandsaw, router and circular saw all draw more power than the refigerator. And the DW and GD are about the same, but I don't have numbers handy.But so what?Instead of OPINION what about the facts in the CODE."210.11 Branch Circuits Required
Branch circuits for lighting and for appliances, including motor-operated appliances, shall
be provided to supply the loads calculated in accordance with 220.10. In addition, branch circuits shall be provided for specific loads not covered by 220.10 where required elsewhere in this Code and for dwelling unit loads as specified in 210.11(C)...."(C) Dwelling Units
(1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by 210.52(B).""210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets
(B) Small Appliances
(1) Receptacle Outlets Served In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for REFIGERATION EQUIPMENT (aka a Refigerator).""Exception No. 2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater."From the handbook."Exception No. 2 to 210.52(B)(1) allows a choice for refrigeration equipment receptacle outlets located in a kitchen or similar area. An individual 15-ampere or larger branch circuit may serve this equipment, or it may be included in the 20-ampere smallappliance branch circuit. Refrigeration equipment is also exempt from the GFCI
requirements of 210.8 where the receptacle outlet for the refrigerator is located as shown in Exhibit 210.25."Again from the code."(2) No Other Outlets The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets. Exception No. 1: A receptacle installed solely for the electrical supply to and upport of an electric clock in any of the rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units." RECEPTACLES CAN BE INSTALLED FOR POWER TO GAS FIRED RANGES, OVENS AND COUNTERTOPS ON THE SMALL APPLIANCE CIRCUITS."(3) Kitchen Receptacle Requirements Receptacles installed in a kitchen to serve countertop surfaces shall be supplied by not fewer Than two small-appliance branch circuits, either or both of which shall also be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the same kitchen and in other rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). Additional small-appliance branch circuits shall be permitted to supply receptacle outlets in the kitchen and other rooms specified in 210.52(B)(1). No small-appliance branch circuit shall serve more than
one kitchen."And"210.23 Permissible Loads
In no case shall the load exceed the branch-circuit ampere rating. An individual branch circuit shall be permitted to supply any load for which it is rated. A branch circuit supplying two or more outlets or receptacles shall supply only the loads specified according to its size as specified in 210.23(A) through (D) and as summarized in 210.24 and Table 210.24.(A) 15- and 20-Ampere Branch Circuits A 15- or 20-ampere branch circuit shall be permitted to supply lighting units or other utilization equipment, or a combination of both, and shall comply with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).Exception: The small appliance branch circuits, laundry branch circuits, and bathroom branch circuits required in a dwelling unit(s) by 210.11(C)(1), (C)(2), and (C)(3) shall supply only the receptacle outlets specified in that section.(1) Cord-and-Plug-Connected Equipment Not Fastened in Place The rating of any one cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place shall not exceed 80 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating.(2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place The total rating of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than luminaires (lighting fixtures), shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied. And from the handbook."Section 210.23(A) permits a 15- or 20-ampere branch circuit for lighting to also supply
utilization equipment fastened in place, such as an air conditioner. The equipment load
must not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating (7.5 amperes on a 15-
ampere circuit and 10 amperes on a 20-ampere circuit). However, according to
210.52(B), such fastened-in-place equipment is not permitted on the small-appliance
branch circuits required in a kitchen, dining room, and so on. A revision to
210.23(A)(1) clarifies that only cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment that is
not fastened in place can have a rating of up to 80 percent of the branch circuit rating
where the circuit also supplies other loads. Equipment that is fastened in place, whether
direct wired or cord and plug connected (waste disposers and dishwashers for
example), is covered by the 50-percent requirement in 210.23(A)(2)."And"Section 210.52(B) requires a minimum of two 20-ampere circuits for all receptacle
outlets for the small-appliance loads, including refrigeration equipment, in the kitchen,
dining room, pantry, and breakfast room of a dwelling unit. The limited exceptions to
what can be connected to these receptacle circuits allows the full capacity of the smallappliance
circuits to be dedicated to the kitchen/dining area wall and countertop
receptacles for the purposes of supplying cord-and-plug-connected portable appliance
loads.
Connecting fastened-in-place appliances such as waste disposers or dishwashers to
these circuits would reduce the capacity to supply the typical higher wattage portable
loads used in these areas, such as toasters, coffee makers, skillets, mixers, and the like.
The Code can control the outlets that these circuits supply but cannot control the
number of portable appliances that occupants use in these areas.""The microwave oven has "always" required a dedicated 20-amp circuit."But a microwave oven is NOT REQUIRED. Thus a dedicated circuit for a MW oven IS NOT REQUIRED UNLESS ONE IS INSTALLED.A quick summary of what I had already posted in http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=88624.14With a gas range and refigerator you only need TWO dedicated circuits. Depending on what other fixed applinaces are installed you might need other circuits some of which might or might not be dedicated depending on the size of the loads..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.