Replies

1. 
   [email protected] | Jun 21, 2011 02:09pm | #1

   IF you can get to the back of it:

   You could use pocket screws. 

   If you can't get to the back of it,  you can use Lamello Simplex, or Snap Connector fittings, if your plywood is thick enough. 

1. 
   Jake0358 | Jun 22, 2011 06:52am | #4

   Pocket screws

   Thanks Jigs,

   But there is limited access from the rear. The cabinets are hung and the are 12" deep, of course. I’d also be worrying about the possibility of splitting the crown at some point.

2. 
   hammer1 | Jun 21, 2011 10:42pm | #2

   Construction adhesive like Liquid nails , Power Grab, etc. works well for both applications. A backer added to the top of the cabinets helps with crown, especially when there isn't much purchase on the cabinets.

   
1. 
   Jake0358 | Jun 22, 2011 06:45am | #3

   Crown Backer

   Hammer,

   　

   Thanks for taking the time to put the pic In. I was thinking of doing the same thing using a 2x4, but after seeing your photo I think using two pieces of 1x would have more stability.

   Also, how did you fasten the crown? Adhesive?

1. 
   hammer1 | Jun 22, 2011 01:25pm | #5

   It all depends on the situation, Jake. On some cabinets, the overlay of the doors don't leave any room for the crown to overlap the faceframe, same with euro style, other times there is plenty. Sometimes I will use nails and pins other times I just use adhesive. It only takes a thin bead of adhesive. For the miters and mitered returns, I prefer to use an all purpose adhesive, comes in a small tube, rather than a water based woodworking glue since glue may cause small pieces to warp. Just press together and hold a minute. There are times I scratch my head looking for ways to clamp things up until glue sets up. The Power grab adhesives do just that and clamping may not be necessary if the crown isn't too heavy, long or warped.

   On the white cabinets with dentin crown, there wasn't much room to overlap the crown. I made the backer in two parts, the first piece was screwed to the faceframe, after that the second piece was easy, you just want to get the angle ripped accurately. Watch out for faceframes with pocket screws, hate those things. There is a pic of an oak job where there was plenty of overlap room but I added a single beveled backer for strength. Folks often put stuff on top of their cabinets and a less solid crown attachment might get knocked loose. There is also a pic of a white kitchen where there was no room for a crown. I placed a piece of plywood on top, traced around, cut it and added the crown to that. It's installed as a separate unit. It's always nice when you can work on the bench rather than after the cabinets are installed but that doesn't always work.  Helps to have a close quarters drill when installing a backer after cabinets are up since there isn't a lot of room between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling.

   
1. 
   Jake0358 | Jun 23, 2011 07:36am | #6

   Crown

   Thanks again Hammer, and great pics.

   　

   The crown installation is being done in the air, and I do have room to overlay the bottom of the crown on the face of the cabinet.

   What type of adhesives do you use, i.e.. names. The all purpose adhesive in the small tube?

   I was thinking of using the fast setting adhesive for a miter joint, but using one with a slower setting time for the rest of the crown.

   Do you glue the bottom of the crown directly to the face of the cabinet? It has that nice finished surface and I was very uncertain of how an adhesive would adhere to it, or do you only glue up to the backer piece?

   Also there is a very slight irregularity to the faces of the cabinets, and at some areas there may be 1/32 or a 1/16 inch space between the bottom of the crown and the cabinet face. I know I didn’t build the cabinets and that it is what it is, but still I want it to look as best as I can when I’m finished. Is there any type of "filler" product available for this application? I know I’m reaching with that question, but maybe there is a product that I’m not aware of..

   Thanks again.

3. 
   hammer1 | Jun 24, 2011 06:41pm | #7

   I don't currently have a tube of all purpose but I'm guessing the brand may be Duco or Testors, I'm sure there are others that will work the same. Any hardware store carries some. You use it the same as construction adhesives which come in a large caulking tube. I'd say it was similar to model cement but that might date me! Apply, press pieces together, open up for a minute then press back together. The newer Power grab adhesives don't require open time. I'll put the adhesive where there is room to avoid any visible squeeze out. That may include both backer and cabinets or not. Seems to stick to finished surfaces just fine. I doubt a 1/16" gap will be noticable when you are standing on the floor. Caulking and filler usually stands out prominately. Moldings create shadows and they hide small discrepancies.