Item 1 is a steel handrail that’s going to be welded out of 3/4″ x 1-3/4″ bar stock. Very simple straight runs (2 of them) with returns, and brackets made to my drawing. The door hardware throughout is oil rubbed bronze, so some shade of dark brown, dark grey, or possibly black would work.
Item 2 is a surround for a woodstove… 1/4″ plate that goes behind and to one side of the stove, which is in a corner. The stove is matte black. A charcoal gray or black would work.
My welder does great work but no finishing. They have sent many items out for galvanizing and powder coating for me. I have used a metal plating outfit a few times to get plumbing and cabinet hardware done to order. Other than that…. I know squat… aside from the fact that copper turns dark after a lot of years, and my tools rust if I leave them outside.
I could haul these items down to Seattle to a metal finisher there, and pay a lot to have something done. The money is tired of getting spent. If there are any decent homebrew approaches to this I’m interested.
All right, who’s the expert up in here?
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Maybe a gunsmith could give you some help--they usually know how to color metal. There are also formulas in gunsmithing books for coloring metal. There are gunsmithing catalogs (like Brownell's) too that have chemicals you can buy.
"The stove is matte black. A charcoal gray or black would work."
can of spray paint? - or have a body shop prime/paint it for you -
depending of the level of use, the same strategy could be used for the hand rail -
seems like I have a vague memory of chemical finishing of metal - I'll see if I can dredge up where it comes from today -
I second Danno, before guns were blued, they were browned. A controlled oxidation that stopped further rust , sorta.
Cold blueing and I assume browning is a simple process of degreasing, apply etching, and deactivate and buff.
OTOH, gunsmiths use a dip or hot blue process, in submersion tanks.IIRC.
I've copied aged brass by heating new brass with a clean flame and brushing on boiled linseed oil till it carbonized and then when cool, steel wool or scotchbrite to desired finish. Jappanning is similar, a built up crud ( for lack of better word) that mimics paint, but is much more durable.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
All but one puppies in happy homes..just one to go..whew!
Probably the better options of what I've done are a little time consuming, some maybe too simplistic, but here are some options to try on small samples.
An excellent very deep blue with varied patterns can be acheived on large plates by cleaning and then painting the steel plate with linseed oil and sprinkling bone meal (like from a garden section) on that while flat. Then heat the back of the plate with a weed burner torch and watch the color patterns. You could probably do that on the bar also. I've done bar with bone meal, but parts small enough to bury in bone meal and put in an oven.
Simplest already mentioned, paint. Auto stores and other have high temp engine paint that would work on the stove surround.
Steel wool the bar until shiny, then swap on ferric chloride (circuit board etchant from electronics shop) and let sit for a day. Will look pretty rusty. Buff off the rust and coat with linseed oil. Nice brown.
I've also tried sprinkling ceramic powders on steel also with mixed success, but it needs to be red hot.
36 years ago I put iron railings in own house and painted with polyurethane paint. One vertical post at the bottom (pix) is the original, paint is worn off where the kids jumped off the stairs and swung around on the post for 20+ years. Good example of paint wear over near 4 decades. Code wouldn't let me build stairs like that anymore, would they?
Then there is the very first google hit on "metal finishes" , their "easy torch" stuff looks like an expansion of the bone meal and weed burner option above. :
http://www.metallicfinishes.com/
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There is a Rustoleum rattle can that matches oil rubbed bronze very closely. I don't remember which one though.
BBQ paint for the stove surround?
Otherwise maybe a body shop?
Use stoveblack for the woodstove surround. It's the traditional product for blackening woodstoves.
Lampblack and linseed oil. Clean the metal, heat the stove, and brush on the mixture. Let cool.
The "black" is generally powdered coal or carbon from a boiler works. Done dozens of RR stoves. Messy as heck...
We get it in tins from the co-op store. Can't remember the application details, it's been a while but it does appear to last close to ten years.
Used to make our own. Sometimes mixed it with kerosene to thin it down for brushing onto details.
Messy as hell. Wear gloves...
I don't know if I'm an expert but some of my clients think so. This site has some patinas that are easy to use: http://www.sculptnouveau.com/traditional.html
I use the PC-9 black stuff quite a bit. You can get it to give you a really nice black leathery look. Rub it on using steel wool in a circular pattern. Use paste wax for a protective top coat. I've also used one of the brown patinas and it gave a sort of bronze/copper finish. As in all finishing, one must pay strict attention to the condition of the material prior to applying the finish or patina. Keep the metal very clean and degreased.
I don't know of any method other than paint to give steel colors like blue, red, yellow, etc. You are pretty much limited to black, brown, reddish (rust), and silver grey (bare steel).
I'll be happy to attempt an answer any specific question you may have.
if the stove surround gets too hot for 'regular' paint, the client has bigger problems...."there's enough for everyone"
I like this stuff - lowly Rustoleum brush-on enamel; hammertone black -
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Forrest
Edited 5/8/2008 8:57 pm ET by McDesign