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Hey Guys- I’ve heard a number of you comment on how useful this tool has been for you. I’m gonna get one, but need recommendos from y’all. See that the current ‘big’ deal is the big kit box with a bunch of stuff in it. Also there’s the ‘pocket rocket’, ‘mini’, ………….kind of confusing so that’s why I’m asking. I’m not a cab. maker, but would certainly want to make a few face frames and other various things- I work mostly in remodel so things are always varied in what I do, and I’m certain I’ll run into those certain situations where this tool would be perfect…………Some questions. Is Kreg’s vise-grip clamp an advantage over other types? Do you have to use “their” screws or can you use any available appropriately sized wafer/truss head screws? I found some old stock at a supplier and it appears to be the ‘original’ Kreg jig- all metal with a built in toggle clamp- how does this design compare to the newer models? I see that the newest jig has removeable pieces to adjust for diff. thicknesses- with the ‘simpler’ jigs, don’t you just reposition the jig manually to account for the particular thickness of the work?…………I know this is long-winded, but would be grateful to gain from the collective knowledge of you all………..Thanks, Ken Hill
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I have the new model you speak of. It really has all you need, and nothing you don't. The vise grips are plain old welders kind with a big plate welded on that works great. Use their screws, they are self drilling, (don't need a pilot in walnut or maple) and the heads don't split the wood(washer heads)
I mounted mine to a 1x12 36" long, clamp it to a bench when needed. The pocket jig works great for "field use".
If you have a chance to get the original metal one, I would(but they usually cost $100) and not needed if you buy the kit.
I often build cabinets for special situations, odd vanities etc. out of 12mm baltic birch 9 ply plywood. I use the jig to make up all the face frames and to connect the carcasses (sides, bottom, nailers) This is where the spacer comes into play, it works well for the 1/2" stuff.
*I have the old metal one, it works great, I love it--the only drawbacks are non-adjustable spacing of holes (exept re-clamping for each hole), and it's not easy to accomodate stock other than 3/4". It's possible but takes a little ingenuity. Occasionally the clamp gets in the way so I disassemble the unit and use it like the "pocket" version, not efficient but works. I think the new plastic version addresses most of these issues. I've had mine for a year or two and now use it all the time.I don't know the brand, but I use the screws from Rockler, as there's a store near my house. On a job the other day I picked up some screws at Woodworker's Warehouse and they suck, the screws cam out. Rocklers' work great.
*I own the metal one and if I didnot I would buy the plastic one in a heart beat. Has a case, adjusts for 1/2, 3/4, and 1 1/2". Has a small pocket jig for odd situations. The part thhat will wear out is the bushing so you only gain flexibility with the new one. I agree with Mike - once you get it you will use for lots of things.
*I own the metal one and Ive been looking at the new kits. but it really does all I need it to do. The only thing I would reconmmend is getting the single one. That does come in handy in some occasions and for the 12 bucks Id make sure Id get it. You can get the screws from most suppliers. I get mine from my hardwod supplier. They got different lengths for a little cheaper than kreg or rocklers. The metal one comes in a kit form also with the drill, stop collar, jig, vise grips and a small supply of screws. that kit is still available and is a little cheaper than te new one but you dont get the rocket or the single one with the metal jig kit. I highly reconmmend either one.
*Get that kit. Like others have said, the bench mounted jig is great in the shop, but that Rocket is soooo handy on site, or for adding that set of holes you forgot in the carcase that fasten the faceframe to the box, or fastening the new faceframe on that old set of cabinets instead of rebuilding the entire set, or a multitude of other uses. The Rocket also has the depth adjusters you talked about for 2x material, great innovation.Kreg does sell different screws for interior, exterior, hardwoods (fine thread), softwoods (coarse thread), probably more than one length for thicker stock, too.I broke my stepped drill bit and was pleased to find some generic brand bits for about 10.00 each at a local tool store that work just fine.The one thing I'd like to see is the long square drive bit be magnetized. Does anyone remember how to magnetize something by wrapping a wire around it and touching the wire to a 12 volt d.c. battery? Could you please explain that? Thanks.Great tool, right up there with the tablesaw and bar clamp (just a notch below the hand held circular saw).
*Jim - you can magnetize the bit by stroking it a few times in one direction with another good strong magnet. Keep the same orientation of the bit and magnet, too. Works well on anything long and skinny, and it's a 10 second job to "recharge" the magnetism if you need to.did
*Jim - I use a magnetized extention(4") from dewalt and just insert 1" tips. I took the screw sleeve off to allow the extention to fit. I like the tips from Mcfeeleys, much harder tip.
*Jeez, get the new kit.I've got a way old one, before the sawdust holes in the back, and love it. Woodworkers Supply has great screws, also. I think I got a magnet thing from them, it's got a hole in it, just stick your tip in and stroke it. Calm down Jim, better than Viagra for holding power. McFeely's is another place that'll screw ya, I mean that in a good way, of course.
*for about 9 bucks whia makes a little plastic thing that will allow you to magnetize and de magnetize metal items like screw drivers etc.handy little bugger.