Has anyone ever considered using Kreg pocket screws as a deck fastening system? I think this would potentially be a great way to tightly hold down the deck material with no visible securing system. But…
Kreg shows both a zinc coated screws or ‘SPS weather coated’, whatever that means.
But here’s my thought.
Put down a 1.5″ X 5.5″ strip of Grace water-ice shield under each deck board and after drilling the pocket holes and securing each deck board, fill the pocket holes (from the underside) with polyurethane caulk….seal each screw.
Takes a bit of time, but should be good for many years!
Has this been tried?
BruceM
Replies
Bruce,
I am afraid that your post may be soon invaded by the screws vs nails group.... be warned as you can expect both Pauls here soon and they may be continuing their discussion from the screws in joist hangers thread.
on to your message....there are alredy proven methods for this on the market that are much less labor intensive... shadow track is one that jumps to mind... its a galv steel peice of angle steel that is nailed to the top of the joist.... it has holes drilled in it a intervals that you run decking screws thru into the decking...... it is alot less labor than boaring all those poket holes... then the grace... then the caulk.
and it dose not look so bad from underneath to boot.
check them out at..... http://www.weekesforest.com/Shadoe%20Track.htm
james
With that line of logic if I wanted their advice on any number of subject all I would have to end each question with "--with screws or nails?" and I would be assured of at least 70 post?Sound a lot like the old--"between the sheets " gameJust give it a try sometime--Question--When I smooth out caulk what should I use---Screws or nails?I have holes left in my d/w from my extensive art collection--What should I use to plug the holes before repainting--Screws or nailsGood times and not a broken law in sight.-----Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I have holes left in my d/w from my extensive art collection--What should I use to plug the holes before repainting--Screws or nails
That would depend on your definition of art.
be is junkhound an eclectic collector or genius? is 4lorn an eclectic electric? is Mizshredder an eclair?
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
A major portion of it is in marker and crayon-----If any one has a Harvest Gold fridge and their looking for a new finish just let me know I can supply you with enough "art" to never see the gold again.Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Hey, whatta you doing up so late?
Oh, 3 hrs difference.
Hey, yer in too early. Get back there and pump out another two hours.
be never ending
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
ROTHFLMAO---I got something really important to do in a hour of so when the misses gets back from the store so I moved my alloted time---If I log off really suddenly like don't come a knockin'----Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Actually, the real question is how do you unplug and old tube of caulk. I've devised a very simple test to determine... ;)
I also like what Stilletto proposed much better. I've been playing around with the Kreg system, but the screws i like to use (#10 Washer head) have a 1/2" head instead of the 3/8 that Kreg drills. I haven't had success using the smaller screws so I'm very suspicious.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
WOW--can you imagine the time it would take to pocket all those board---problely add days to a deck--I have use the steel track with the holes and the slight angle and liked the results very much. layed out the strips and to avoid the shiny flash hit the strips with flat black paint at the end of the day--next morning we got down to laying the deck boards--with the black paint you couldn't see the strips even when we knew they were there.Even got good at setting the screws blind by feel with the drill--tried the impact but with so little feedback coming thru the tool I kept stripping the holes so went back to the regular cordless to get the feel without having to hang my head under the deck--of course with a tall enough deck you can do it from under but this one was only 20 inches off grade.Now go change the oil in the bike--Spring is a commin'Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
My concern with your idea doesn't revolve around the fastener and its holding ability/corrosion resistance, or the time it would take to install.
What concerns me is the strength of the joists after they have a row of 3/8th inch holes every 3 inches or so down their entire length. You want to put a lot of holes in the section of the joist that takes all the compression loads. Which I've come to understand was a big no no!
Perhaps someone with some structural background would confirm or dispel my reservations. It wouldn't do to have a deck full of "big boned" relatives prove me correct at a launch party of the new improvements.
Until Kreg tests and rates their screws for ACQ contact I don't think the application is advisable.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Until Kreg tests and rates their screws for ACQ contact I don't think the application is advisable.
I'm not sure he mentioned using pt lumber for the deck. But then again, I'm skeptical of 'zinc coated' ability to stand up to weather anyway, so pt lumber or not, you'd probably still want a hdg screw/nail.
jt8
"Take your life in your own hands, and what happens? A terrible thing: no one to blame." -- Erica Mann Jong
Build your deck as usual then lay 2x4's on the top of your joists on the flat, glue and screw the 2x to your joist then you can screw your decking from the underside all you want, place your ledger in the right spot to accomadate the decking and the extra 2x4 so you come in underneath your doors.
Make sure glue is waterproof and 2x4 is centered on the joist.
Stilleto
What a novel idea! I'm going to give this some seious thought!! Do you think a PT 1X4 would be sufficient as a 'sleeper'?
To the previous poster (sorry, can't see your post from here), thanks for the well thought out reply...yes, the preservative in the joists is a concern, and I just looked at the 'weatherized' Kreg screws that I think are only zinc coated, meaning I wouldn't use them. However, that someone now has SS for the pocket screw concept is good news, meaning I really wouldn't have to try to imbed and seal the screw from the nasty Oregon coast salt air.....although Stiletto's idea may now make this a moot point.
BruceM
'Sometimes it's the simple stuff that gives our brains the hardest time'
Why not just use deckmaster or one of other similar products that are better in all respects.
http://www.deckmaster.com/pdf/dm-105-05-25-04.pdf
Not sure in your case but I'd use 2x here inMichigan, weather extremes. 60 and sunny, ten minutes later cloudy and 20 and snowing.
Bruce,
I second the concerns raised by QCInspector in the 4th posting. The weakening of the joist with the pockets could be an issue. If those joists are west of the Mississippi, they are likely douglas fir, in whch case the pockets may well expose untreated wood to decay. (Fill in your profile so we can help better. Only your geographic region matters to me.)
The idea of caulking the pockets sounds like A) Too much work, and B) A water trap. If any water EVER gets into the top hole, it will not drain free.
If you go ahead with this plan anyhow, it may interest you to know that McFeely's now offers stainless steel #10 pocket hole screws in 1-1/4" and 2-5/8" lengths. They would be the only thing I'd trust to last in ACQ joists. If your joists are SYP, the pocket likely won't expose any untreated wood.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Bill