Hello All,
I am going to help a friend make a countertop for his kitchen. It will be an “L” shaped counter 8′ x 5′. The 8′ side will be run along a wall while the 5′ side will be used as an eating area/bar. There will be base cabinets running the entire 8′ length but and on the 5′ side there will be one cabinet 90 degrees to the others so only about 2-1/2′ of the 5′ side will be supported by cabinets but we plan on putting a support post toward the end of the “peninsula”.
We’re using MDF for the substrate. We’ll be getting a 5′ x 12′ sheet of laminate for the top. I want to double up the thickness of the 5′ side since there will be a lot of overhang. Then the 8′ side I would just double up the edge.
My question is this….Since it is 5 x 8 how should I make the MDF portion of it? I was thinking that I would do a half-lap type set-up where the 5′ side would be doubled up but I would leave the bottom layer short of the wall the width of the 8′ side(24″ or whatever it works out to be. Then gluing and screwing the layers together. So I would have a glue/screw area of about 24″ x 36″. Then I would just do a doubled up edge on the remaining 8′ side to match the thickness of the 5′ side. Should I do it differently??
Replies
Doing it as you suggest will lead to an incredibly strong corner joint. Way stronger than is needed.
That doesn't make it a bad idea at all. If you are building this in place, its a good idea.
If you want, you could build the two sections as completely separate sections, then join them with specialized fasteners. The kind that are used for post-formed countertops. The fasteners are available at most big box stores.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
I might be wrong, But I swear I have seen MDF in 5x12 sheets some where in my past.
Alternatively, your plan is a good one , for sure.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
The lap joint you plan to do is the best, the strongest and the only real way to fab up the deck. Glue, screw or staple. You will still need the leg on the end to hold the counter up, mdf,pb, even ply being too flexible.
Not knowing if you do laminate enough to know, but here's a tip that might save your ####. After you rout (using a lam trimmer and lam trimmer bit) don't be tempted to file the inside corner of that top laminate square. Leave it rounded or you can expect a stress crack coming out of that corner.
Best of luck.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
mdf is way too heavy too work with and unnecessary for a counter top, i use 11/16 particleboard for my tops and sheets are available up to 5 by 12 easily
doubling the overhanging section is a definite as well as all front edges, some customers want the bottom of a large overhanging section laminated and doubling the thickness makes that easy
to join two sections of flat stock, i use biscuits and a couple of drawbolts(used to join miters in postform tops) and plenty of glue
i did an article last year in fhb (november i think) on fabricating laminated countertops
Aside from the question which you've gotten some good answers to, my other concern is that a 5' wide penisula end of MDF is going to sag on the end corners if supported by one post. And if supported by two, it will probably sag in the middle.
I've done similar kinds of installations, and one thing that worked was a steel angle support around the perimeter of the overhang. I glued a wood fascia to it which hung slightly below the steel and had eased corners so it would be easy on knees under the surface.
Bruce
The High Desert Group LLC
"Fine homes done right, one at a time"