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Discussion Forum

Ladder Handling and Safety Tips Needed!!

| Posted in General Discussion on May 29, 2004 04:28am

Attention all professional painters! Desperately seeking ladder handling advice to ensure survival past summer season!

I’ve painted bungalows but never a three storey house. I’ve got three ladders: a 4′ step ladder, an 8′ step that converts to a 16′ extension, and a 32′ extension ladder. I also borrowed ladder jacks, but have never used them.

It’ll be relatively easy to paint up to the top of the second storey, but it’s the third storey I’m worried about. I’ll be painting alone and need to know the best way to handle a 32′ ladder by myself. The gable peaks are roughly 32′ – 36′ high, so even this ladder won’t reach the highest point, which is another problem unto itself. Scaffolding isn’t an option in the two side yards because my house is close to the neighbor’s house and there’s a fence separating us. The roof pitch is steep (roughly 12 in 12) and the asphalt shingles are in poor shape, so they’ll likely get damaged if I try to work off of it. To boot, I’ve got electrical service wires in one corner of the house at the second floor level. 

Ladders seem the only option. What’s the best way to handle them? In particular, how can a person working alone safely handle a tall ladder when it’s fully extended? I’m looking for specific examples (tying it off to avoid sideways sliding… block & tackle to lift it??… ) Any advice would help.

Cheers.

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Sphere | May 29, 2004 04:41am | #1

    three words

    Farm

    it

    out

     

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

    1. Piffin | May 29, 2004 07:49pm | #12

      ;)

      hire a pro, take two valium and don't watch

      where's that thread about being scared of heights? 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. maverick | May 29, 2004 11:36pm | #17

        I rented a 60 foot extension ladder (3 sections) one time to fix some siding on the side of a commercial building. It was hairy enough putting the thing up and taking it down never mind going up there. Never again!

        1. Piffin | May 29, 2004 11:45pm | #18

          Time for a coffe break once you got up there, eh? 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. maverick | May 30, 2004 12:37am | #19

            Hell no, adrenalin was pumping. Did the job and got out of there. that was a turning point in my career. I thought to myself as I was climbing that thing that when I put my feet back on the ground things had to change. And they did.

  2. User avater
    dieselpig | May 29, 2004 04:46am | #2

    Fine Homebuilding Issue #157....August/September 2003

    Cover alot of what you're asking.  If your 32' er is aluminum, be careful around that electrical service!  Definately use a ladder stabilizer to minimize sliding around up there.

    If you're working alone and no one is going to be home all day you might want to consider a harness of some sort with those heights, especially if you're not on ladders all that much.  In the very least, make sure you've got a cell phone on your person for a worst case scenario.

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | May 29, 2004 06:56am | #9

      On the FHB web page (link at the top of the screen) they have a video that goes with that article.

  3. User avater
    JSCONST | May 29, 2004 04:52am | #3

    I use my 40 foot extension ladder regularly by myself.  The trick to getting the ladder vertical is to place the ladder flat on the ground perpendicular to the house.  Push the feet of the ladder up tight to the foundation.  Then grab the top of the ladder (the part furthest from the house) and hold it over your head as you walk toward the house.  With each step, grab a lower rung, and the next thing you know, the ladder is vertical.  The foundation of the house keeps the bottom of the ladder from teeter-tottering after you walk it past the middle.  Make sure you have the lower extension section on the bottom when you are setting it up, so the sections don't start to slide.  Also, make sure you are clear of cable, phone, and power lines.

    JS

  4. User avater
    JSCONST | May 29, 2004 04:54am | #4

    Boom trucks are handy, too (if you han get ahold of one).

    JS

  5. joeh | May 29, 2004 05:32am | #5

    If you are determined to do this yourself, I would look into scaffolding.

    I (and many others here) will tell you that the cost of scaffolding is less than..........

    1. A trip to the emergency room.

    2. The cost of whatever immediate and follow up medical care you may require.

    3. The money you will NOT be making while you are recuperating from the gravity attack you could experience.

    The scaffolding is going to be handy when you replace the roof next year, and you can rent it to your neighbor when he sees how much fun you had while painting.

    Think about it, you can in less than a second do something that will effect the rest of your life.

    I limp, it hurts, and it was only about 12' down.

    Old and still dumb, Joe H

    1. ronbudgell | May 29, 2004 04:09pm | #11

      Joe,

      I limp, it still hurts, and it was only three feet down.

      Dumb, but still getting older.

      Ron

  6. DanH | May 29, 2004 06:10am | #6

    Keep in mind that a 32' extension will only extend to about 29 feet. And giving it the required slant lowers it several more feet. Also, if the ground slopes off at all from the house that costs you more yet.

    A 32' ladder is 16' collapsed, which is a lot of height for one person to handle. It can be done if you're in good shape physically, but if you're the type that gets sand kicked in your eyes at the beach, you shouldn't try it alone.

    It's good to tie off a ladder at the top if you possibly can. Consider driving screw eyes into the house at intervals for this. You can either leave them there or remove then and fill the holes with a dab of caulk.

    If there isn't room for scaffolding, there isn't room for a ladder. You can set up scaffolding in tighter spaces than you can set up a ladder.

    If it's really that tight a space then a climbing scaffold is probably the only thing that would work.

    1. User avater
      dieselpig | May 29, 2004 06:34am | #8

      Another thought....

      Scissor lifts can be rented for short money, relatively speaking.  Those can creep into some pretty tight places and make for a very safe and comfortable work environment.  You could fit a bunch of paint and supplies, a cooler, a radio, and yourself on it and not have to come down all day!

      1. mikeys | May 29, 2004 06:59am | #10

        If he's not coming down all day he should bring up an empty bucket. Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.

    2. Piffin | May 29, 2004 07:57pm | #13

      yours is the best post I've read here so far. There is no way this guy has the necessary equipment to do this job at the third floor. another point is that for much work at full extension he wants highly rated ladders and not HO versions.

      I used to be able to handle a 40' fully extended all alone on level ground and a wind free day.

      but I guess that age has changed that. Last summer, I dropped my 32' trying to move it vertical alone and it is now a 16'

      ;) 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  7. alwaysoverbudget | May 29, 2004 06:11am | #7

    would it be possible to rent a boom [for lack of better word]trailer,and park it over on a neighbors drive then swing it over fence. i think a ladder will take up more room than scaffoling. a 32' ladder extended plum out will need to set about8-10' away from the house,scafold only takes up 6' width. all else fails see if you can farm out the top 2 storys and you finish 1st floor. good luck be safe

  8. User avater
    IMERC | May 29, 2004 08:06pm | #14

    3' wide scaffold..

    100' boomed man lift.

    Pass the job on.

    You ot the pace to put up the ladder.. You got the space to put a scaffold.

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....

                                                                       WOW!!!   What a Ride!

    1. DanParis | May 29, 2004 08:24pm | #15

      Thanks to everyone for their great comments.

      I'll take a second look at whether scaffolding will fit in the side yard. If it does, I'd rather work on it than on a ladder. I know it'll fit in the front and rear yard.

      Alternately, I'll do finish up to the second floor and hire a professional for the third floor. I had thought about it already, but it's making more sense now. It'll be easy to complete the lower section because there's a roof line that wraps around the house at the top of the second floor, and the gable walls extend above it at the third floor.

      Thanks again.

      Cheers.

      1. seeyou | May 29, 2004 09:51pm | #16

        Hire the pro to do the 3rd floor first. Watch how he does and put his tricks to work on the rest of the house.

  9. User avater
    Dinosaur | May 30, 2004 06:55am | #20

    There are these things called Pump Jacks, or pumpjack scaffolds. You may be able to rent them. They are basically self-elevating platforms that you pump up the side of your house on 2x's. I'm not sure how you'll like the feeling you get up three stories on a set of pump jacks (they wobble) but it oughta be less scary than a 40' ladder extended full out, which is what you'll need if you insist on using a ladder.

    I would use standard 5x5x10 pipe scaffolding. It is more solid and gives you more place to work than either ladders or pumpjacks. Rental cost is usually very reasonable. It will have to be fastened to the building every 10 feet vertically, or every two layers. You'll need six or seven layers of 60"x60" frames. If you're in a tight space, you can get 30" wide x 60" high frames. You will almost certainly need at least one other man to help you set these things up and tear them down later. If you've never done it before, be aware that if your ground level frames are not dead effing level, by the time you get up to level three you won't be able to button the X's to the opposing frames. Use screw-post adjustable feet. Depending on the overhang of the roof at the gable end and how steep the roof is you may have to set up the scaffolding outside the roof line; this makes it a bit more difficult to attach the frames to the building wall. Don't neglect this step, though, or you WILL regret it....

    Obviously, if there are uninsulated electrical wires in the way of the scaffolding, you're going to have to get an electrician in to install a temporary service entry elsewhere.

    BTW--It's a little known fact that a cell phone in you pocket will not automatically dial 911 when you fall and knock yourself cold. It is also seldom mentioned that cell phones have been known to stop working when dropped or fallen upon.  If you are planning to work alone and your site is isolated, you need to make negative check-in arrangements with someone, like this: If you don't call them every X-number of minutes, they call you. If you don't answer, they call 911. The safest interval to pick for 'X' would be 15 minutes, but it would drive both you and your corrospondent nuts in less than a day. Try to call at least once an hour, though, PITA though it might be. In trauma cases, the first hour after injury is called the 'Golden Hour'--if you can be gotten to the trauma center within 60 minutes of injury, your chances of survival are much better.

    Dinosaur

    'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | May 30, 2004 07:32am | #21

      "Obviously, if there are uninsulated electrical wires in the way of the scaffolding, you're going to have to get an electrician in to install a temporary service entry elsewhere."

      If these are a service drop and even if insulated you can call the utility company and they will sleave it with a thick insulating tube.

      1. User avater
        Dinosaur | May 30, 2004 07:49am | #22

        That's a nice service--here I don't think Hydro will touch the service drop except to connect (or disconnect) it at the mast. And they won't even schedule a service call without having the electrician's license number on the job order.

        I've been around these things often enough that I will work near an insulated entry line without getting my shorts all twisted, but I couldn't in good conscience recommend that to someone else. Also, I think he said he had wires coming off one corner of the house; that sounds like an older type entry, maybe three uninsulated lines coming into a knob set. That would not work out well at all....Dinosaur

        'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?

        1. DanParis | May 30, 2004 07:14pm | #23

          I hadn't thought about calling Hydro to check if they'll install insulated sleeves. Good advice. If they can, at least it'll allow me to sleep a little better at night. Even if they can't (or won't), the wires appear to be insulated and are not original to the house. About 10 years ago, a previous owner upgraded to a 200A service, and new power lines were installed to it.

          The good news is that the electrical service lines come in at the corner where my front porch is (yes, the lines are out of reach by anyone other than an 8'-7" NBA player), which means that I can use a conventional wood step ladder in a safe manner on the front elevation and my 16' light-weight extension ladder on the side elevation. Either way, it won't be overly difficult to stay safe.

          Thanks again for the advice.

          1. OrchidGuy | May 31, 2004 03:37am | #24

            Like JoeH I've also had a gravity attack off an extension ladder from the 2nd floor window I was working on. Luckily 4 days of rain and the excavating contractor left a nice soft pile of mud to fall onto. It hurt but the limb and bruises were temporary!

  10. csnow | May 31, 2004 04:14am | #25

    Alum-a-pole pump jacks (as some have suggested) are rated for 50 feet.

    Though, after riding on a 50 ft. boom lift, nothing aver seems as good.

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