Hello –
Jut finished my first custom laminate kitchen countertop for a customer yesterday. Everything turned out real nice, but in finishing the laminate application I couldn’t help but think there are some better ways of doing things.
How do you folks cut the long strips for the (self) edge? I cut the strips 1/2″+ proud of finished size with a scoring blade and straight edge and this seemed to work fine. Also, how do you trim for inside corners and at the wall “dead ends” where the router/trimmer (I was using my 2 1/4 Bosch) base would interfere? For the edge laminate I pre-trimmed with the router and the laminate clamped to a piece of hardwood of matching height (width). Upon application I made sure these areas were applied as precisely as possible and then sanded smooth. How would you trim the top sheet where it meets the wall?
I had two very minor burnt spots on the edge pieces from trimming the top (I did edges/sides first and then top). Although I used tape I still “whitened” the Formica a bit in spots. I found that the bearing was seizing and not free spinning becasue of glue build-up. Luckily the laminate had white in the texture and the customer did not notice until I pointed out the error and thus they did not have issue. In the future I will use some sort of edge lubricant (ideas?) and WD-40 on the bit.
Last question, do you folks find (If I were to add more counters to my repertoire) that a Bosch or similar trim kit is worth it?
Thanks,
Derek
Replies
In the future I will use some sort of edge lubricant (ideas?) and WD-40 on the bit.
I use vaseline with a non ball bearing bit. Don't use WD-40 on a ball bearing bit, it will eventually seize.
I just use a file to finish close ends.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I pre-fab all those pieces as much as possible in a shop with tablesaws, files etc.
This means less time on installation, less mess to clean up at the homeowner's.
For trimming the edge pieces, get one of these. Pays for itself on the first job.
View ImageLaminae Slitter $89.99 at Tool Crib.
I set the slitter to no more than an 1/8" wider than edge, and line the bottom up with the bottom of the core stock. I think that your bearing burning problem could be related to all of the glue you are cutting through and picking up cutting through the 1/2" waste. With a clean and sharp cutter you don't need to tape, and that will eliminate a lot of filing along the edge.
A trick to unstick the bearing is to fill the top cap of the lacquer thinner can with thinner, and set the bit (still in router, turned off) in the cap and rest against a wall for 5 mins (more as necessary). Then manually turn the bearing and scrape off excess glue with your fingernail to get it spinning freely again. I also usually have a handful of extra 3-flute cutters on hand, in case a bearing really locks up.
As for router set ups, I have a handful of the basic laminate trimmers (DeWalt, PC, couple of junk Riobi's ). I think that the bells of whistles of the full kits have more equip. than I need for most counter work. Countertop installers probably disagree. I like to have at least a couple when doing tops so the helper can also be routing, or when doing wood work each one is set up with a different bit for small profiles.
Regards,
Scott
Summerwood -
I am going to have to take a look at that tool! Seems as though it would save considerable time and then I could do as others have suggested and prefab a bunch of pieces in the shop and just file the ends that can't be trimmed.
I'll try the thinner for the bearing too - Thanks!
Thanks everyone for all for the suggestions.
Derek
If you decide not to get the trimmer and you have a helper, have them lay the sheet out on a work surface and mark the strips needed and cut them with a 1/8" bit, using a straightedge guide for the router base(whatever kind is used). Doesn't take too much time and the helper gets some experience working with laminate. The knife and straightedge works, but takes a fair amount of time and if the blade decides to wander, wastes material.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Good idea. I am always looking for ways to give my helper experience that doesn't cost me too much. Great guy, but he's been having trouble giving me accurate measurements ever since his tape that listed 1/4ths, 1/8ths, and 1/16ths broke.
Thanks,
Derek
Everything under the laminate sun here. Good folks too.
http://www.specialtytools.com/cgi-bin/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=router_bits_all/routerbits.html&cart_id=6636647_14322
Slitter is one of those tools you'll find indispensible if you do much laminate. A couple tests to set up for different laminate thickness and it's cake.
Also got an extended shank flush trimmer from them....puts bearing further away from cutter...less fouling with contact cement. I use bearing lube and check often for gooey bearing. Also use combo roundover-trimmer. One swipe with a file and you're flush Once in a while use. Get real laminate files, better than a mill b*stard.
PJ
Whatever you can do or dream you can,
Begin it
Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it. Goethe
"Get real laminate files, better than a mill b*stard." - I thought there was a specific tool for this. Found out the hard way (slit thumb) that checking the corners with a finger isn't very smart.
Inside corners on the top lam. When rough cutting.
Safer to drill a hole in the sheet where the direction changes, cut to it with a circ. saw, or rout it if you have the patience. If you cut a square corner, good chance of a crack coming out of it as you flop it around.
Do not file the inside corner sharp. Leave what the router leaves you with a lam trimming bit. Again, sure to maybe crack out of that corner.
Get some old venetian blinds to lay under the pc. during glue up. Much easier to store a bunch of em than dowels etc. And if anyone needs any, I've got the market cornered. A friend knew I would take them, so he brought over 10-7' long big blinds........I cannot keep them any longer, still haven't cut em apart yet and their in the way. Anyone?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cut your edgebanding on the tablesaw or buy it in precuts from your supplier.
Filing is a fact of life with laminate & it only gets easier with practice.
Last, throw away those bearing guided bits & use the solid carbide flush cutters
with a stick lubricant like Trim-Ease. The quickest way to ruin your day is to have a
bearing sieze up when your trimming.
The blinds are vinyl, right? Another way to keep the laminate from sticking when you don't want it to is with PVC tubing. I have seen ol' Norm using cardboard strips for this. Not a bad way if you don't mind pieces of dirt and dust underneath. I don't like lumps in my counters, so I use the PVC because after I wipe it down, it's clean and it won't make my life difficult.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
If you were talking about the old window blinds? Nope, old style. Big, metal, best thing for keeping lam off the deck in my old guy opinion. You want a couple hundred?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Do you think the blind slats work (considerably) better than dowels?
yes I do, but then again, it's how I learned. You can take the blinds and put a million of them on top of each other in a bucket with the rollers, slitter etc and they take up 1" of thickness. If you put that many dowels in a bucket, there'd be no more room. The pts of contact are very small, the amount it raises the lam off the deck is minimal. They don't roll around. And, in the case of most salvaged goods, free. But, the old wide blinds are a thing of the past. I don't see them at the end of driveways anymore.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Are you offering these to anyone in particular & if not what do you want for them?
I'm offering them to anyone in particular. I don't know yet how to "ship" them. If I could just wrap paper around them and they could go us mail, you pay the postage. If they would be better in a poster type round mailing sleeve, you buy the sleeve and pay the postage. If you go through toledo, you stop by, bring beer and pick up a couple hundred. And if I could be so bold, you make a charitable contribution into the Salv. Army kettle and we'll all be happy.
The beer does sound good tho.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 12/2/2004 11:31 pm ET by calvin
If you're feeling real paranoid, masking tape adds a layer of protection. I like Vaseline too. The more glue you keep off and clean off the face the bearing rides on, the less to foul the bearing. Welding rods make good standoff strips. Tin snips, with a little practice, are quick for making end cuts on strips. I some times plane off most of the overhang with a good block plane (Record with a hard Hock blade, very sharp) , then file.That way there's no burning "tall.