Hey guys,
I want to make a countertop with plastic laminate. Can I use two layers of 3/4″ particle board screwed together as a suitable substrate? This is for a basement bar. 6’x6′ L shape with a clipped 45 corner. I will alternate “overlap” the joints. Do I need to fill the screw holes, and the seam with filler or something. I’ve read about the contact cement and shims,etc. I need to do the edges first too i’ve read. Tell me what I need to know. Thanks in advance
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Replies
You can fill the screw holes but really not necessary. I would use plywood in a basement if humidity is an issue.
Chuck S
Glue the partical board layers together. Sheet vinyl adhesive has worked for me. You want a smooth surface for the laminate. I like to do the edge first especially if using laminate for the edge.
This is a little off topic but I saw an unusual counter top yesterday in a house I was showing
It had a sheet of copper for the counter top
It was on a bar in the basement
The counter top was a sheet of copper like you see in the picture below
http://www.stormcopperstore.com/copper-sheet.html
You do not need two complete layers of pb. You only need two layers at the edges and where you make joint of the L. The second layer at the edge only needs to be as waide as the overhang and the the thickness of the cabinet top rail. The layer under the L joint needs to be 1' wide.
Apply the second layer to the bottom of the slab using yellow glue (Titebond II), stables, short nails, or screws. Hold any of those fasteners back from the edge at least 1/2" to avoid causing any bumps from the pilot bit on the router is used to trim the p-lam.
Buy a good quality particle board. The stuff you get from the big box stores is generally not smooth enough for counter tops. a good lumber company or cabinet supply dealre will have what you need.
Use contact cement as directed, and apply the edge band first. Coat bothe the slab and the p-lam. With lower quality pb you will likely need two coats of glue. Cut the p-lam over size and trim with the router after it is glued down. When placing the p-lam start in the middle or the edge of slab and work your way to the edge to avoid trapping any air bubbles under it. Use a J-roller to press down the laminate and insure good contact of the adhesive.
When placing the top p-lam spread the glue on both surfaces and let it set untill it is dry to touch, but tacky under pressure. Lay cauls strips over the slab and set the p-lam on to top of them and position it so you ahve adequate overhang all around. Starting in the center remove a caul and start rolling down the p-lam toward one end. Rmove the next caul and continue untill you reach the edge.
Trim the top with a router and piloted laminate trim bit.
One caution about using contact cement. Don't get wild with it. Keep it off of surfaces the the pilot bit will be bearing agianst or it will gum up the bearing and cause it to freeze up, resulting in a burn mark on the p-lam surface.
Need more info, e-mail me through this forum. I've been building tops for 32 years and have discovered every concievable way to screw one up, and a few ways to do them right.
Hey Dave,
Well I made it with two complete layers. It is sitting on top of kneewalls, kind of like the breadfast bar in their kitchen. I did the edges first, then the top. I did use two coats of glue since I had enough. It turned out well. The hardest part was getting the seam nice. I had to special order the laminate, so you know, no pressure. It's like cutting a 40 foot lvl hip that you have just enough of. Thanks for all the help, I'll get some pictures tommorrow.
Those p-lam seams can be a real pain. I use a Bosh laminate trimmer with a underscrip attachment for seams. Another method is to lap two piece of p-lam that are going to be seamed, clamp a straight edge over them and cut both with a staight bit in the trimmer. I should have put that in my post, but it was long and wordy enough.
Glad it worked out for you.
Dave,
I actually did use the double cut method. I don't know what that attachment is that you speak of. I have a Rigid trimmer I got for a good price a while back. I use it for hinge mortices usually. This was only the second top I've done. That thing sure started to get hot. I should watch someone who knows what they're doing sometime. Thanks again.
I agree w/ DaveRicheson. Get what I've heard referred to as high density PB. A large counter ... just do a strip around the edge say 2-3 inches wide. Run long strips across joints. Also occasionally in the center. The high density gives a smoother surface. Doing the edge first means the top overlaps the edge ... no exposed edge on the top (or place to catch stuff. Trim top flush w/ edge. You can buy a good quality inexpensive roller to help roll your glue down process better. food for thought.
Around here is called West Coast Industrial PB.And beside 4x8 it comes in different sized designed for counter tops.30" wide and up to 10 ft long..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
That west coast board is good. We can get 25" as well as 30" in 8s 10s and 12s
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I can get 25", 30",49" and 60" in lenghts up to 12'. Short L's are a breeze with with the 60" widths, i.e. no splices.