Replies

1. 
   Heck | Apr 29, 2007 01:30am | #1

   Nice. How did you finish the counter edge at the sink? I can't make it out in the photo.

   _______________________________________________________________

   A SQUAT grey building of only thirty-four stories. Over the main entrance the words, CENTRAL LONDON HATCHERY AND CONDITIONING CENTRE, and, in a shield, the World State's motto, COMMUNITY, IDENTITY, STABILITY.

2. 
   user-224517 | Apr 29, 2007 01:30am | #2

   Steve

   How did you seal the edge around the sink

3. 
   plumbbill | Apr 29, 2007 02:52am | #3

   I have the same question as posts 2 & 3.

   I have an undermount sink with new laminate counter top job comming up.

   I was going to use teak where the exposed counter meets the sink.

   I fear no man & only one GOD. Me

1. 
   dustinf | Apr 29, 2007 04:59am | #4

   I've installed 4 of them.  All 4 were built by the countertop manufacturer.  This particular shop uses a rubber gasket(think weather stripping) bonded to the particle board.

   BTW, 2 of the 4 failed, and had to be replaced.Leave it go.

1. 
   DougU | Apr 29, 2007 06:51am | #5

   Dustin

   I dont know how the OP'er did his undermount sink but I've seen them done using solid surface that was close in color, or even an exact match, or contrasting, to the laminate.

   The solid surface was added into the substrate and the laminate was glued down over the top just like you would on a particle board substrate. Then the sink was mounted on the underside with no problem from water because it was sealed to the solid surface.

   Doug

1. 
   steve | Apr 29, 2007 02:44pm | #6

   sealing the sink was the trickiest part and of course that involves disguising the particle board edge

   there was an article in fh a while ago but i couldnt find my copy

   basically i routered a dado in the bottom of the newly laminated top using a template of the sink interior shape and filled it

   using the sink as a guide, i cut a precise template in 1/4 inch scrap panelling using a router and a 3/8 bearing guided cutter and then used that template and a 1/2 inch cutter with a guide bushing to cut the groove (dado) in the bottom of the coutertop to the depth of the laminate, yes the depth is critical, i actually removed a small amount of laminate, the partial cutout must be supported from underneath

   i filled the 1/2 inch wide groove with West System epoxy colored with a little ebony minwax stain, and filled the groove completely, it took about half  a can of epoxy(1 litre can). west system is available from marine supply places like west maine.

   after the epoxy has cured(6 hours or  so) the final cutout is made again using a router with a 3/8 bearing cutter and the template

   positioning the template during various operations is critical so that the sinkcutout is within the epoxy filled groove, i was left with a 3/8 epoxy rim under the sink edge

   west sytem can worked with with carbide router bits and sands very nicely

   i did similar epoxy filled cutouts in the faucet and soap dispenser areas just to seal them from water

   the sink is just a regular rim mount stainless steel unit, supported by a "false" countertop piece inside the cabinet, it is not fastened to the real countertop except with a small bead of caulking on the rim and the faucet goes through the hole in the sink as well as the countertop

   i'll post a few detail pics later

1. 
   jrnbj | Apr 29, 2007 09:24pm | #7

   Drop in sinks aren't available anymore???
   All that work with templates & expensive epoxy, 2 out of 4 failures in the Rubber gasket post...
   KISS is good, KISS works
   Shoot, I just got up to look at the stainless sink in the solid surface top in my 491 sq.ft. 2K/ mo. jobsite home on the road rental and it's got a drop in sink!!!
   KISS me, bro....

2. 
   woodguy99 | Apr 29, 2007 10:03pm | #8

   That doesn't sound like that much extra work, and I think the undermount look is much nicer than a SS drop-in.  Also like Doug's solid surface idea.  I hate the grungy edge of a SS drop-in sink.  Besides the sink deal, plastic laminate is still a great countertop material--and the price is right.  Nice job. 

    

3. 
   steve | Apr 29, 2007 10:53pm | #9

   to the critics, it was an experiment that works and already i have had positive customer response, this one was at my own home, a great place to try new stuff

   with the epoxy rim, that cost about 20 bucks cdn., i cant see how it can posibly leak.` time wise, it took about 4 hours plus epoxy setting time

   it seems these days that customers change countertops every ten years or so for a fresh look way before any damage occurs so laminated tops are a very inexpensive option and the colour selection is almost infinite

   an undermount sink is a viable option and this method uses a plain ordinary steel sink again a budget option after all they are around 180 bucks around here and undermount units start at 400

2. 
   vintage1 | May 01, 2007 02:15am | #11

   Doug,

   another good idea.  Assuming you can find a close match in color (lam. to ss), you have just eliminated much of the extra labor needed to do this job.

   thanks.

2. 
   vintage1 | May 01, 2007 02:11am | #10

   pb,

   I am intrigued by your suggestion of teak, esp. if you banded the outside of the top w/ same or similar wood.

   Any thoughts on type of sealer for the teak at the sink?

    

1. 
   plumbbill | May 01, 2007 04:27am | #12

   Silicon between the teak & the SS undermount sink.

   Contact cement for all the laminate top.

   3/4" plywood substrate, 1x teak for the sides & the front, & due to the offset in the back of the sink the teak will be 3" wide. The teak will be routered with the cutout template.

   This is not something that I came up with, early 90's in some highend homes I installed 3 sinks this way, but I just did the plumbing the cabinet guru's took care of the laminate & teak.

   I asked them about prtecting the teak from water----- the guy looked at me & said it's friggin teak there is no wood its' all pitch.

    I fear no man & only one GOD. Me