Replies

1. 
   PhillyD | Dec 21, 1998 10:47pm | #1

   *
   Scott,

   I've done this before, and with success.

   You need to thoroughly clean the old laminate and sand it a bit. This is so you have a non-shiny surface for glue to take hold.

   The hard part is getting a good fit where you don't have an exposed edge for the laminate trimmer (router). So dry-fit first to get the correct size. Where you need to bevel edge the laminate and the router doesn't fit, use a fine file and a steady hand.

   Good luck.

   Phil

1. 
   alan_joseph_samson | Dec 22, 1998 03:59am | #2

   *I think it is easier to just de-laminate with a taping knife and some laquer thinner.Hope this helps.

1. 
   PhillyD | Dec 22, 1998 05:38am | #3

   *Alan, Then you still have the other issues I mentioned, unless you also remove the countertop from the cabinets. Then you might as well get new countertop!Phil

2. 
   Guest_ | Dec 22, 1998 07:02am | #4

   *
   Alan I agreed with Phil. Sand the counter and make sure they are grease free. Also make sure that the old top is still secured. Trim with router and finish up hand filing to get at the ends and corners.
   Good luck

3. 
   SteveM_ | Dec 22, 1998 07:41am | #5

   *
   It is Pretty simple to laminate over laminate. I agree, clean it well and sand it well. A recomended investment would be a laminate file. They are available in smoothe and fast cut. If it's your first go round get a smooth. Slower but less likely to cause you problems. If there are joints in the laminate, e-mail me and I will explain how to make a proper joint that appears seamless. Also I would be very careful of the contact cement used. I have had my best results with a product called StaPut. Good Luck!

1. 
   David_Rosendale | Dec 22, 1998 11:15am | #6

   *If you can remove the top(s) then I recommend removing the laminate as Alan mentioned, but do it in an extremely well ventilated area. If you cannot remove the top(s) then sand and clean thoroughly. As for seams careful planning of your sheet layout can avoid most of this. In my area in Baltimore I can order laminate from three of the largest manufacturers in sheets from 6' wide and up to 14' long though these extremes have a waiting period. The 3 suppliers I use will also cut to width for me but this is not difficult with a table saw. Also for trimming check around for different size trimming and beveling bits. I found a set of 1/8" trimming and 60 degree bevels that are great for relaminate jobs. They are more than worth the money I paid due to the amount of filing and hand work they have saved me.

1. 
   Scott_ | Dec 22, 1998 06:06pm | #7

   *Thanks guys.The idea is to replace old grungy cabinets and old pattern laminate w/new cabinets and new counter surface: same sizes and same place. So counter top comes out, new cabinet goes in, counter top goes on.My idea was why fabricate (or pay to have fabricated) a new top when I've got one in good shape of the exact right size? Your responses vary a little. Is it less work or less expensive to start from scratch rather than relaminate? What are the pros and cons of removing the old laminate from the substrate first vs just scuffing and laminating over?Thanks again.Scott

1. 
   alaln_joseph_samson | Dec 23, 1998 05:02am | #8

   *The proper way to build a kitchen countertop with formica type laminate is to cold press the laminate onto a void-free plywood.This is often not done in favor of using contact cement over some type of particle board.Because of that, one does not really know how secure the old laminate is to the substrate.Next, is the question of balance. Often, the cheaper ways of fabrication exclude the backer sheet that is vital to the balance. If one puts two layers upon an unbalanced sheet of particle board and the first gluing is secure, this will cause cupping and warping. If the first gluing is not so good, the second layer of mica will cause pull upon that first layer.Lastly, but not leastly, it is not a good idea to breath the type of dust created when sanding down melamine enough to adhere another layer. It simply is not worth it.Hope this helps.

1. 
   Herrick_Kimball | Dec 23, 1998 06:51am | #9

   *ScottIf your cabinets are staying put and you want a new top, it makes good sense to utilize the existing underlayment, ESPECIALLY if your countertop configuration is involved. I've relaminated dozens of tops over the past 20 years or so with excellent results using one of three different methods:1. If the existing laminate is firmly adhered, you can sand it to remove the gloss finish and any surface residue that would interfere with the new glue line. Wipe the surface down with a solvent like acetone. Don't use mineral spirits because it is a thin oil and does not dry very well. Reglue using a SOLVENT BASED contact adhesive-- don't use a water based contact cement when glueing laminate over laminate.2. You can use acetone in a spray bottle, along with a spackle knife, to dissolve the old glue line and lift the existing laminate free. Then you can reglue laminate over the old underlayment. HOWEVER, there is a risk with this maneuver because the old and new contact cement might not be compatable. Besides that, the old glue line may be somewhat rough and need to be smoothed down. Sanding does not typically take care of the glue. I have had fairly good success at removing old contact adhesive by spraying on some acetone to soften it up and quickly following up with a sharp cabinet scraper. This will not take care of it all but it will get rid of a lot of the glue. To glue the new layer of laminate, I've had excellent results using 3M High-Strength 90 aerosol contact adhesive. The stuff is downright expensive but it has ALWAYS worked, and I can't say that about some other contact cements I've used.3. I have replaced many tops by layering a sheet of 1/4 in lauan plywood over the old top and glueing the new laminate to that. The 1/4 in of extra thickness is not very noticeable on a 1-1/2 in top. It can be applied oversize and trimmed flush with a laminate trimmer, just like a sheet of laminate. The plywood is fastened down with a LOT of narrow crown pneumatic staples.For complete how-to information about making plastic laminate countertops, I recommend the book, "Making Plastic Laminate Countertops", published by The Taunton Press. I wrote the book. There is a chapter in it on resurfacing old counters. The book has been out a couple years now and I have received lots of favorable reviews from readers. Here's one of my favorite quotes:"On the last countertop I did, the builder told me it was the nicest top he'd ever been involved with. I told him I learned it all from your book."Marty EpperlyAngle Fire, New MexicoMarty has contacted me several times by e-mail with laminate questions and I've been able to help him out. I welcome questions from anyone else. But please buy the book and read it first because most of the answers are already in there.Herrick [email protected]

4. 
   Scott_ | Dec 23, 1998 06:54am | #10

   *
   Kitchen counters in fine shape except the laminate (Formica (TM) or similar) is a dated, early 70's pattern. Any suggestions or comments about simply laminating over the top with a new layer?