Replies

1. 
   Hazlett | Nov 18, 2005 02:20pm | #1

    Never done it----but I suspect I would put a new blade in my shingle shear-----cut each full shingle into "tabs"---and install each tab seperately. without chalklines--- I suspect I would hand nail and use the hatchet gauge as I have never been able to successfully use the gauge on a gun with any speed. I would not try to line the keyways up every other course---but would use a more random offset.

   Stephen

2. 
   seeyou | Nov 18, 2005 02:52pm | #2

   That's a tough one. I've done regular 3 tab, dimensional, slate, wood, and metal shingles as well as standing and flat seam on cones, but never that type. As the radius decreases, the pieces have to get smaller. It's easier if you don't have to bond the courses, but I don't see any way around it with this product.

   I'd start by snapping a series of verticle lines from the bottom of the cone to the top. Each line would be the distance = to the width of an individual tab apart (which I would guess to be about 9")  tapering to 0" at the top if it's a true cone. Use a different color chaulk and snap lines centered between the first set of lines. Cut some shingles into individual tabs and install the first course.

   As Stephen mentioned, a shingle shear might be worth the investment for this project. Depending on how tall the cone is, the second course might install the same way. Use the second color lines to determine this and guide your second course. If you're having to overlap the sides to stay on course, you'll need to start shaving each piece into a wedge (wider at the bottom than at the top).

   The individual pieces for each succeeding course will  get smaller until every other red line gets within the original width of each tab (9"). Then you can go back to full tabs and start the decrease in size again. This may create an undesirable pattern to the cone, so do a couple of partial courses and get down and look. You may have to keep shaving all the way.

   Personally, I don't think this particular product is going to look very good in this application (although, it's an attractive product). You might want to consider using copper standing seam or some completely different product on the cone. My 2 cents. Good luck.

   edit: I've used a string attached to the top of the cone with the coursing marked on it or a story pole for horizontal alignment.

   Birth, school, work, death.....................

   http://grantlogan.net/

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/18/2005 7:01 am ET by seeyou

1. 
   Bentstick | Nov 19, 2005 04:53am | #3

   We have a shingle shear on it's way. Unfortunately the general contractor could not be persuaded to use standing seam copper.

   It is quite a steep pitch with about a 20' rafter length. I think that cutting the pieces down may work, but the pieces toward the top will start to get real narrow.

   I looked at some slate turrets and the were much flatter than this one.

    

    

1. 
   piko | Nov 19, 2005 08:02am | #4

   My thought is that as the 'wedges' get narrower towards the top, instead of tapering small segment, use wider (more maneagable) pieces and cut the bottom edge of the shingle to conform to the courses.All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

2. 
   seeyou | Nov 19, 2005 02:01pm | #5

   I've rethought this project and I think Stephen and piko are probably right about the small pieces. A random stagger will probably look better. Try laying out as noted above, but with just the first set of lines. You will have to bevel the sides of each piece as you get closer to the top. Use the lines to determine how much.

   One thought about using this shingle: They don't actually have rain trots. The rain trots are created by the laminations. If you cut anywhere except dead center between the tabs, the cut will be apparent (not framed by black). You might experiment with shaving a little of the top layer off with a hook blade on your cuts. Tedious, but might look a lot better.Birth, school, work, death.....................

   http://grantlogan.net/

3. 
   Framer | Nov 20, 2005 07:17am | #6

   I framed a conical roof a couple years ago on a 5000 s/f addition and the roofer made his own shingles out of copper and banged them down with a rubber mallet upon the homeowners request.From what I remember they were about 10" wide and 8-9" to the wether. The roofer hooked a rope at the top point and use that as his line for each course by spinning it around the radius. The cord stayed there the whole time. It's definitely different looking.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=29185.1Joe Carola

   Edited 11/19/2005 11:35 pm ET by Framer

1. 
   Bentstick | Nov 23, 2005 05:06pm | #7

   Thanks for your input.

   We are gonna have to do some trial pieces first to see which looks better. 

   If anyone has some pics, could ya post them?

    

   Thanx.

    

1. 
   Bentstick | Dec 11, 2005 02:24am | #8

   I started the conical roof on Friday. Fun stuff.

   If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

   Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

   I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

   
2. 
   seeyou | Dec 11, 2005 03:47am | #9

   This will be interesting. Keep posting the pics. Doing it on the ground and setting it later is a great bonus. What's going on the top?Birth, school, work, death.....................

   http://grantlogan.net/

3. 
   Bentstick | Dec 11, 2005 05:21am | #10

   A metal cap. I havn't seen the details on it yet. I think there is going to be a flag pole at the top.

   If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

   Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

   I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

4. 
   Hazlett | Dec 11, 2005 02:11pm | #11

    I think things are about to get interesting on the  very next course.

    BTW---did you put grace on that entire roof deck in the background?

    good luck with this project, Stephen

5. 
   Bentstick | Dec 11, 2005 07:26pm | #12

   Yes, things will get interesting! I am using one more row of stormguard, then shingle mate to the top.

   I am using the shingle shear which I have attached a picture of. I am finding it on the flimsy side for the shingles I am using.

   The main house has tri-flex on it.

   If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

   Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

   I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

   
6. 
   Sphere | Dec 11, 2005 07:49pm | #13

   I work for SEEYOU..and here is what I did last winter. 

   
7. 
   Bentstick | Dec 12, 2005 12:54am | #14

   Looks like you were using the same shingle shear. It probably worked great with those laminates.

   Do you have any pictures of the finished product? Were you happy with the way it turned out?

   If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

   Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

   I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

8. 
   theslateman | Dec 12, 2005 02:00am | #15

   I'm going to try to upload some shots of one I just did in Maine-using slate.

9. 
   Sphere | Dec 12, 2005 05:27pm | #17

   I don't have any from far enough away to really show it well, sorry.

   Yep, same shear..funny thing..I was using it as a toeboard ( stupid, stupid, and really stupid..I know) when the nail (single nail I might add) let loose...I was fully harnessed and had a row of boards at the bottom, but it still was a hell of a ride LOL.

   So, don't do that. 

10. 
    Bentstick | Dec 18, 2005 08:01pm | #18

    Here is an update. I am getting very dizzy!

    If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

    Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

    I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

    
11. 
    Hazlett | Dec 12, 2005 03:53pm | #16

     I have the same shingle shear.

     I haven't personally used it in a couple of years---and at last use it  needed a new blade----------- but with a fresh blade it chomps through  50 year laminates no problem

    I have never used it on a TRI-Laminate---which I expect would be nastier

     Have fun, Stephen