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lap siding and round windows

driftwood | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 14, 2006 06:08am

ive got a 4 foot round window to side around …i am using 6″ ceder lap siding and it right on the front porch so its got to be perfection..

im not a boat builder but i did cut out an exact template and did some measuments..
ive cut the piece 3 times and still havent got it perfect..lucky for me its a short piece..

whats you boat builders tecnique? different template? do i need to fold the template in half? the template is tar paper..and seems right on

thanks again
mostly almost informed..
peace

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Replies

  1. DanH | Mar 14, 2006 12:42pm | #1

    Well, first off, cut the round end first, leaving the other end long.

    If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

    happy?

  2. User avater
    MarkH | Mar 14, 2006 01:26pm | #2

    Rough it close, put in place and scribe it, finish the cutting (with a bit of back bevel), use a half round file or belt sander to make it fit to perfection, cut square end to fit.

  3. User avater
    hammer1 | Mar 14, 2006 03:52pm | #3

    Templates are hard to align properly, the siding changes with each row and just a little tipping or misalignment of the template will mess up the arch cut. It's fairly easy to mark each clapboard with a set of dividers (compasses). Put the siding on the line and butt it to the window. Open a set of dividers wide enough to accommodate the cut. You just have to hold them level throughout the marking.

    Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

  4. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 14, 2006 04:01pm | #4

    Driftwood, correct me if I'm wrong.

    The window manufacturer requires a 3/16" gap between your siding and the window and the ensuing gap receives a 3/8" bead of flexible caulk, right?

    So, when I have to fit siding to the window, I eyeball a pencil mark, cut with my power saw, test fit, shave a little and usually the second time it fits. I then cut the other length to fit.

    Even if I had to get this to fit perfect without caulk, I'd use the same method, and finish it with sandpaper.

    blue

     

    1. driftwood | Mar 14, 2006 04:38pm | #5

      as always i wake to find great people on this page answering goofy questions..
      thanks againyea i think you may be supposta leave a gap for swelling and contraction
      this area is under cover from the sun and water..and the material is bone dry with a
      opeque stain..i back caulk with no gapall answers make cents thanks
      after a surf i will get it fit in you all rock
      peace
      tji like" leave the square end long"(LOL duh) good call

  5. pickings | Mar 14, 2006 05:04pm | #6

    "ive cut the piece 3 times and still havent got it perfect..lucky for me its a short piece."

    It ain't gonna get any longer every time you cut it...... ;-)

     

    1. driftwood | Mar 15, 2006 01:53am | #7

      har har
      ended up using the tar paper template...leaving it a little long
      and using a round pencil to scribe
      worked out real nice..thanks again

  6. doodabug | Mar 15, 2006 02:14am | #8

    I lay it out on a piece of plywood and scribe the siding with a stick with nails set at radius.

    1. 741cp | Mar 16, 2006 04:55am | #9

      Another idea. I had to cut Hardie board siding for a 5 foot arch in a peak. The curved trim is PVC. I figured out the arch radius, and layed it out on a piece of plywood. Using a rotozip tool with a stick as an "extended" radius cutter tool, I cut the trim. Once the siding was up to the bottom of the window, I layed out the layers with the angles for the roof on the same piece of plywood. Cut the angle on one end, lay the piece in it's marked out spot and run the rotozip across it. All the pieces came out right with an even 1/8th inch gap. A router would work equally as well

      Edited 3/15/2006 9:58 pm ET by 741cp

      1. doodabug | Mar 17, 2006 12:19am | #10

        A friend of mine does it that way. I am not usually prepared for those jobs and end up scratching with the nail and cutting with jigsaw.

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