Hi Everyone:
Any thoughts on laser levels? I’m currently using one with a rotating beam but it is not self-levelling…As a result, it’s usually frustating and time-consuming trying to keep the thing level. Anyone have any suggestions on which model to by at a good price point?
thanks
JP
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Replies
I have an older model RoboToolz, self leveling, rotating laser. Visible dot projection only. Rotates via remote control, great for a one-man operation - does not rotate by itself. $250 - 300.
No longer manufactured under this name - Porter Cable bought them out and a tool of very similar appearance is currently manufactured by them - except now it is PC gray instead of yellow like mine. +/- 1/8" @ 100', relatively easy to check calibration or re-calibrate (every 6 months or after any drop). Built in leveling base - can usually be done by eyeball, needs to be within 5 degrees of level for the self leveling to work right. Simple to field check - rotate 360 - if laser dot does not blink it is good to go. Very versatile, can be set up on any handy surface, or 5/8" (survey) or 1/4" (photographic) tripod.
Dot visible for at least 75' in direct sunlight.
Mine gets used for everything from kitchen cabinet setting to checking foundations (do I need double mud sills?)
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
I've also been looking at laser levels recently for both interior and exterior use. Interior wise, I've been looking at the PLS360, and the PLS5 for exterior use. I've heard great things about the Pacific Laser Systems levels, however one thing that gets me is their inability (according to the customer service department which I emailed) to be re-calibrated by the end user (me). If I have a problem with a laser level, I don't want to have to send it in and wait who knows how long. It may only be a week, but wouldn't you know...that's when you'll need it most..ha ha.I noticed you commented on the re-calibration of the RoboToolz levels. Was that a required feature for you, or just a welcome feature? Anyone know of what other levels can be recalibrated by the end user versus having to send them in?
I have the pls360 as well as a PL5 old style. I bought the PL5 when it was over $900.00, probably the best investment I've made, other than my wife.
My guys aren't really delicate, but at least 7 years I've had it, it's still as accurate as it was when I bought it. I bought it because I didn't want to fine tune anything, just set it down, turn it on , and go.
I have never tried the others, but the PLS lasers do exactly what the literature says they do.I would have no reason to but any other.
Greg in Connecticut
The ability to be user calibrated was a definite requirement for me. I did not want a tool which would be out of commission for weeks at a time while out being calibrated - plus who is to say the calibration won't be knocked out of whack on the return trip by the apes at Fed-X or UPS?
The RoboToolz laser came with an instruction book which was 90% instructions on the procedure to re-calibrate, and they supplied the one tool required to adjust ( a small Allen wrench with a ball end, fitted hole in the carrying case for it). Really not that hard to do, but the book walked you through the process one tiny step at a time.
Before using the tool for the first time, I went through the calibration procedure - glad I did - my laser was "out" by about 1-1/4" in 96' when it came out of the box. Was it shipped from the factory that way or did it happen in shipping? No way to know.
Mine gets checked every 6 months, after any drop, or before any project requiring long "throws". I usually work alone so the "help" tossing the tool around is not an issue. The factory case is nicely fitted and padded.
Typically, I end up just confirming calibration rather than making adjustments to the pendulum. Worst ever was after a BobCat knocked the laser and tripod over with the pendulum unlocked - tripod tipped over from about 4' elevation onto frozen ground - that event only knocked it out by 3/8" in 96'.
Did I mention that 96' is the length of our church's community hall? I figured that 96' was close enough to the 100' "ideal" in the instruction book.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Hey guys,Thanks for the input on the calibration issues. Although I would love to buy something that is dead on from day one and stays that way, there's always a chance it will get out of adjustment (probably moreso from user error...dropping...knocking over while on tripod, etc). I guess I just feel comfortable knowing that if necessary, I still can manually calibrate the unit if need be. As far as the PLS's are concerned, even though they say they have to be calibrated by them or an authorized service center...is that just lip service, so to speak, because they want you to bring it in? I have yet to calibrate a laser level, but my line of thinking was that it was something along the lines of a rifle scope, which with some trial and error, and some patience could be adjusted just about dead on. JTC1, when I first read your post, I read the 96' as 96"...ha ha. I thought wow.. 1 1/4" off in 8 feet???? lol Good to know you were able to get it calibrated correctly though. As far as shooting a laser 100' out (or 96' in that case), are both of you guys happy with the laser at that distance? I mean, how elongated has the line become? 1/4", 1/2" 1", etc? Or still a pretty fine dot?
The dot does elongate to about 1/2" or so but still maintains a discernably brighter center section. I take the middle of the "brighter dot" at those types of distances - very rare for me.
99% of the time I am using the laser at distances less than 30'; 0.6% at 30'-50'; 0.4% at >50' - not positive of the percentages, but you get the idea.
Dust sitting on the surface of the glass, laser emmision port will cause wierd scatter patterns which will confuse you until you figure out the cause - blow the dust off with air and the pattern will go away.
And, yes the calibration procedure has many similarities to sighting in a rifle scope except the targets remain stationary and the laser moves between the two targets. It is a trial and error process with each adjustment getting progressively closer to dead-on.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 3/18/2007 1:05 pm ET by JTC1
I contacted the owner of PLS and rcvd this response to the question of self calibration.
“PLS builds their laser tools to be in perfect calibration with optics permanently fused within specifications. This means that the optics cannot move unless the tool is dropped or has other source of impact. Tools that are promoted as being able to recalibrate in the field by nature means that the optics can move during usage. What prevents the optics from moving again after a contractor sticks a screw driver in the optic system? Repairs or recalibration of a PLS laser can be done at many service centers throughout <!----><!---->North America<!----> or by the PLS factory technicians.
While I understand your desire to make it right on the job, I can also understand the idea of service center calibration. On occasion I have putzed with a regular builders site level in hopes of correcting the minor discrepancy to true. While I was able to get it closer to dead on, I didn't have it as precise as when I brought it in to the shop for a cleaning and calibration. My PLS is still on the money after 4 yrs, a quality tool.
<!----><!----> <!---->A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I too can understand the idea about having something "permanently set" at the factory. If it's dead on, it's dead on and nothing to worry about! However, what happens "if" the level gets dropped and then goes out of adjustment? Things never get dropped on a construction site....lolAs far as the levels that are adjustable are concerned and the optics moving again. I'm sure each level has it's own adjustment system. Personally, I'd prefer one that has both a setting and an adjusting means. 1) loosen the "set" screw, nut, etc..... 2) adjust level.... 3) tighten the set screw, nut, etc....4) verify accuracy after tightening set screw.... 5) repeat 1-4 if necessary.I'm not saying all or even any manufacturers have both a set and an adjustment type of system....maybe they all only have the adjustment part and then yes, I could see that wanting to move some. That's one of the reasons I asked about calibrating these units if they needed it.I also contacted PLS awhile back regarding the calibration of units and the response I received was:>>>>
Dear James:Thank you for your inquiry.All PLS tools may only be calibrated by a trained technician, either here at the factory or at an authorized repair center. The lasers have a one year warranty with exclusions for mishandling, immersion in liquid and battery acid damage. After a tool is repaired, there is another year’s warranty on the parts and workmanship. The charges for repair range from $95 to $175 depending upon the model and the damage. Please read the attached file for a description of the re-calibration/repair process.
<<<<<<The attached file was just an explanation of how to send the unit in, give them your CC #, etc...nothing about how the units themselves are worked on.New from the factory, yes I'd hope they would be dead on, and if it wasn't, I'd definitely send it in and have it checked out. 2 years down the road, if I happen to drop the unit or someone knocks over the tripod and the unit does get whacked out of level....then what? I can't adjust it, I have to rely on either a backup unit, a borrowed unit, or a rented unit. I then have to send my unit in and spend anywhere from $95-175 to get it re-calibrated (if that's all that's wrong with it). I think both type of units (ones that can be field calibrated and ones that can't) have their own advantages/disadvantages. Hopefully everyone finds a unit that fits their needs, etc
What are you going to use it for? I've been using PLS lasers, different models for different app's. A little more information & we all can confuse you together <G>
Paul
As Paul said, what will you be using it for and how much do you have to spend.
I have a PLS2, cross hair style, and that is great, nice thin tight line and great accuracy.
are you inside or ourside?i've got one of those robotoolz/porter cable lasers. they work excellent out side.75"in daylight is conservitive. and if you want to know how much slope your street has,wait till the sun goes down,i've been at 900' with mine with no problem at all.means i had a + /- of one inch for a fence. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
I just bought the rotary RoboToolz RT-3620-2 which is levelled manually with two bubbles and very fine adjustment screws. $235cdn plus taxes. 1/4" in 100' on both beam axis. Calibration must be done by a shop, which for me means shipping out of town.
This RoboToolz is a pretty sturdily built unit, in a good case, with a very good detector (meaning that it discerns where the beam is and allows an accurate pencil mark to be made).
The interior pole stand, tripod, wall mount etc. are extra.
Levelling this particular unit is not that much of a chore. I am usually a one-man-band so I can take the time to do it right, and to check it from time to time. Maybe when the novelty wears off I'll long for a self-leveler. By then, I'll know much more about these things and will feel confident spending the bigger $. Those PLS and Stabila units sure look fine don't they!
This being my first laser (I've rented transits and grade rods in the past) and quite versatile for the price, I feel it is the right entry point for the tempo and scope of work that I do.
btw, the recent laser review in FHB was quite helpful in terms of edumacating me about these things - even though they did not test the unit I chose.
Edit: which brand rotating laser have you got?
Edited 3/19/2007 8:22 pm ET by Pierre1
Edited 3/19/2007 8:23 pm ET by Pierre1