FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Last common rafter layout?

blownonfuel | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 21, 2008 08:56am

I need to know where my last common rafter lies for my hip roof. I am putting my ceiling joists up and want to make sure that my last common rafter is in the correct location. I know that my last common should be at half of my total span but where exactly? For example if my total width from outside to outside wall is 30′ then I need to measure back from the corners 15′ for my last common and mark it but which side of the line does the last common fall?

Thanks

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Jim_Allen | Sep 21, 2008 09:02pm | #1

    You need to factor in half the thickness of your ridge.

    Assuming that your ridge is 1 1/2", your run will be 14' 11 3/4". Mark that on your top plate and the X will be going away.

    Place your common on the x.

    1. blownonfuel | Sep 21, 2008 09:14pm | #2

      Jim this may sound like a dumb question but why does the ridge thickness come into play? I can see that for the length of rafter but not where the last common falls on my top plate. What am I not seeing here?

      1. Jim_Allen | Sep 21, 2008 09:43pm | #3

        There is more than one way to configure the cluster of rafters that occur at the end of the ridge. Most people converge at least three commons here (I don't conform to that thinking but it's most common). So, with that thought in mind, you may be right that my answer is not your answer. But, if you want the simplest solution, then you will make all your commons the same including all of them on the main sides of the roof and the middle one on the end that nails into the ridge. Keep in mind though that it's not necessary to have a common nail into the end of the ridge but 99.99% of the carpenters I've known does it.

        1. blownonfuel | Sep 21, 2008 09:51pm | #4

          Jim I think I may have confused you with my post. I am just talking about where to put a mark on my top plate as to where the last common rafter falls at the end of my ridge. Again if my span is 30' does my last common rafter center at 15' on my top plate?

          1. User avater
            fengelman | Sep 21, 2008 10:41pm | #5

            yesI wish I didn't know now, what I didn't know then

          2. blownonfuel | Sep 21, 2008 11:14pm | #7

            Thanks

          3. Jim_Allen | Sep 21, 2008 11:12pm | #6

            yes

            Edited 9/21/2008 4:13 pm by Jim_Allen

          4. blownonfuel | Sep 21, 2008 11:15pm | #8

            Thanks.

          5. Framer | Sep 21, 2008 11:43pm | #10

            I thought the span was 25' 5-1/2" or 25' 7-1/2"?? Something like that.

            Anyway, Come in from each corner 14-11-1/4" and x away because 14' 11-1/4" is your rafter run if your now saying your span is 30' with a 2x ridge.Joe Carola

          6. User avater
            fengelman | Sep 22, 2008 01:29am | #11

            it would be the same, no matter what size ridge he has, or even if he had no ridge....what we're marking here, is the 1 1/2 inch rafter...

          7. Framer | Sep 22, 2008 01:43am | #12

            it would be the same, no matter what size ridge he has, or even if he had no ridge....what we're marking here, is the 1 1/2 inch rafter...

            That's not true. It does matter what size the ridge is when figuring the run of the rafter because you have to deduct 1/2 the thickness of the ridge to get your run

            I used a 2x ridge in the drawing. That gives you a 14' 11-1/4" run going from front to back and in on both side king commons of the roof.

            If he used 5-1/2" ridge deducting 1/2 of that ridge, his run front to back and side to side would be 14' 9-1/4".

            So, you measure in 14' 9-1/4" for the common he's talking about.

             Joe Carola

          8. User avater
            fengelman | Sep 22, 2008 01:57am | #13

            I'm sorry, I thought we were refering to the last common rafter....the one that is in line with the ridge, and forms the center of the hipped end of the roof

             

            now you have me really curious....wouldn't the end of the ridge, where the three rafters come together, at the end of the ridge, always fall at half the width of the building, off the end wall?

          9. Framer | Sep 22, 2008 02:01am | #15

            now you have me really curious....wouldn't the end of the ridge, where the three rafters come together, at the end of the ridge, always fall at half the width of the building, off the end wall?

            No, it will fall where the run of the common rafter is after deducting half the ridge thickness. Look at both of my drawings. All the commons front back and side king commons are all cut the same length with the same run.

             Joe Carola

          10. Framer | Sep 22, 2008 01:58am | #14

            it would be the same, no matter what size ridge he has, or even if he had no ridge....what we're marking here, is the 1 1/2 inch rafter...

            It also doesn't matter what size the rafter is either unless it's wider than the ridge. You can have a 3-1/2" wide rafter with a 5-1/2" ridge the run will stay the same 14' 9-1/4"on the side king common rafter. 

             Joe Carola

          11. User avater
            fengelman | Sep 22, 2008 02:03am | #16

            joe, could you e-mail me privately at [email protected]

          12. blownonfuel | Sep 22, 2008 02:37am | #18

            Yup.

          13. blownonfuel | Sep 22, 2008 02:37am | #17

            Joe I was only using 30' as a example. If the span is 30' then the center of my last common should fall at 15'. Correct?

          14. Framer | Sep 22, 2008 02:44am | #19

            Joe I was only using 30' as a example. If the span is 30' then the center of my last common should fall at 15'. Correct?

            Yes, if your ridge and rafter are the same thickness.

            What is you REAL width and span?

             Joe Carola

          15. blownonfuel | Sep 22, 2008 02:53am | #21

            26'-5 1/2"

          16. User avater
            Heck | Sep 22, 2008 02:52am | #20

            The edge of your common should fall at 15', in other words, the same run from the adjacent wall to the edge of the common, if there was no ridge beam.

            All common rafters need to be backed off 1/2 the thickness of the ridge board/beam, therefore, in your example, if you are using a 2x ridge, then your run would be 15' minus 3/4" , and the layout would then be the same to the face of the common, or as you stated, 15' to the center.

             

            Edited  to clarify measurement       

            Edited 9/21/2008 7:53 pm by Heck

          17. blownonfuel | Sep 22, 2008 03:00am | #22

            Thanks Heck. Lets say I had no ridge, would it change where the last common ended in relation to the corner of the building? I only need to know where my last common would fall from the corners. If for example the building was 30', then the centers of the end of ridge common and the two side king commons would be at 15'. Correct? Even if there was no ridge. I can see how the ridge thickness affects the length of rafter but not where it falls in the layout.

          18. User avater
            Heck | Sep 22, 2008 03:10am | #23

            Well, it's somewhat of a simplification when describing layouts of 2x material that you can effectively disregard their thickness when laying out hips, but, in general you are correct to state that the adjacent commons are the same, therefore placing the face of the side commons at the same run from the corner.

            The reality is that rafter thickness (as well as ridge thickness) is a component of the layout. Consider 4x rafters. The layout would be moved toward the end wall by 1/2 the thickness of the rafter, solely due to the width of the rafter on the end of the ridge wanting to shoulder over the side commons and peaking at a point too far into the building. This end rafter needs to be clipped shorter, therefore made to intersect lower, in order to preserve the actual points of intersection and the corresponding slopes of each side.

             

            Edit in blue       

            Edited 9/21/2008 8:12 pm by Heck

            Edited 9/21/2008 8:12 pm by Heck

          19. blownonfuel | Sep 22, 2008 04:07am | #24

            I gotcha now Heck. Thanks

          20. Clewless1 | Sep 22, 2008 05:34pm | #25

            This conversation is really confusing.

            And your drawing did zip to help me understand ... although I'm fairly certain it made sense ... to yourself.

          21. Jim_Allen | Sep 22, 2008 06:08pm | #26

            Ditto

          22. Framer | Sep 23, 2008 05:12am | #33

             

            From: 

            Clewless1 <!----><!----> 

            10:34 am 

            To: 

            Framer <!----><!---->

             (26 of 33) 

             

            110219.26 in reply to 110219.11 

            This conversation is really confusing.

            And your drawing did zip to help me understand ... although I'm fairly certain it made sense ... to yourself.

             

             

            View Image Options

             View ImageReply

             

             

             

             

            From: 

            Jim_Allen <!----><!----> 

            11:08 am 

            To: 

            Clewless1 <!----><!---->

             (27 of 33) 

             

            110219.27 in reply to 110219.26 

            Ditto

             

            Jim,

            What's so hard for you of all people to understand a basic hip roof common rafter run?

            The rafter run front, back and side commons are half the span minus 1/2 the thickness of the ridge. They are all the same run and same length.

            Whatever the run is front to back, it's the same on the sides. Your ridge starts at the side with the common run measurement.

            You have a 4' span with a 2x ridge and 2x rafters, your run is 1' 11-1/4". Come in 1' 11-1/4" from the outside of the wall and make a mark and go. That's where you king common starts if you want to use one and that's where your ridge starts regardless if you use a king common or not.

            If you use king commons the 1' 11-1/4" measurement has to be the same front to back and side to the ridge because it's 45° .

            Look at this drawing, I used a 4' span with 2x ridge and 2x commons.

            It's simple and basic Jim.

             

            Joe Carola

            Edited 9/22/2008 11:04 pm ET by Framer

          23. Jim_Allen | Sep 23, 2008 06:00am | #34

            Your preaching to the choir Joe. I cut my first irregular roof, with a handsaw after laying it all out back in carpenter school in the 70's. They made us do all the math without a calculator, including the square roots LOL! No speed squares either....only speedier squares (framing squares). The thing that didn't make sense was your drawing that showed some lines with a few dimensions. It looked like nice lines but it didn't show any rafters.

          24. Framer | Sep 23, 2008 03:13pm | #35

            The thing that didn't make sense was your drawing that showed some lines with a few dimensions. It looked like nice lines but it didn't show any rafters.

            Jim,

            Alright, you didn't realize the lines were the rafters, but you did see the measurements and you obviously know that the side king common rafter and where the ridge starts has the same run and rafter length as the rest of the commons.

            I'm sure my last drawing cleared that up.

             Joe Carola

          25. Jim_Allen | Sep 23, 2008 04:07pm | #37

            yes

          26. Clewless1 | Sep 23, 2008 04:47pm | #38

            You did it w/out a calculator???  how'd you do that?  LOL  Back 'in  the old days' they really did make you work.

          27. Clewless1 | Sep 23, 2008 04:59pm | #39

            I agree w/ Jim ... first drawing a bit sketchy (I'm being polite, now) ... we ain't your wife and we can't read your mind ... only what you put on paper ... if you make us fill in the blanks we may or may not 'get it'. The new drawing was much better ... glad you ain't no architect ... hate to have to build to your drawings.

            If so many people are confused, I usually look w/in myself to see the error of my communication. I'm no framer by trade and the topic was interesting, but by the same token, it seemed like different people were talking about entirely different things (to me, the lay person) ... just thought it amusing. Sorry 'bout the miscommunication ... no offense intended in any of my prose.

            Clarification (for my benefit as I ain't no expert framer, Framer) ... the end roof plane has only one common rafter, right? And you cut the ridge length so that rafter is identical to the side roof rafters, right? Or is the length of the ridge that critical (i.e. minor variations in the end roof slope are relatively meaningless?)?

            Oh ... and it is clewless, not clueless ... there IS a difference (although I don't expect you to 'get it' ... it's pretty dry humor ... although I've been known to also be clueless more than just a few times).

          28. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 23, 2008 05:13pm | #40

            so dry we are all parched :-)

          29. Framer | Sep 23, 2008 08:41pm | #42

             

            I agree w/ Jim ... first drawing a bit sketchy (I'm being polite, now) ... we ain't your wife and we can't read your mind ... only what you put on paper ... if you make us fill in the blanks we may or may not 'get it'.

            What didn't you get, the numbers were right there. So I didn't write rafters next to the lines, the numbers were right there for the runs.

            The new drawing was much better ... glad you ain't no architect ... hate to have to build to your drawings.

            Still being polite? Glad you ain't no framer because you wouldn't know how to frame from any drawing.

            If so many people are confused, I usually look w/in myself to see the error of my communication. I'm no framer by trade and the topic was interesting, but by the same token, it seemed like different people were talking about entirely different things (to me, the lay person) ... just thought it amusing.

            It seems like you're the one that is confused obviously because your not a framer. Any framer would pick up on the run measurements I gave and understand it in 2 seconds.

            Sorry 'bout the miscommunication ... no offense intended in any of my prose.

            Sure about that? There's no miscommunication on how you write.

            Clarification (for my benefit as I ain't no expert framer, Framer) ... the end roof plane has only one common rafter, right? And you cut the ridge length so that rafter is identical to the side roof rafters, right? Or is the length of the ridge that critical (i.e. minor variations in the end roof slope are relatively meaningless?)?

            Really want to know, or are you still trying to be a d!ck?

            Oh ... and it is clewless, not clueless ... there IS a difference (although I don't expect you to 'get it' ...

            Really! still just being a d!ck!

             Joe Carola

          30. Clewless1 | Sep 24, 2008 05:35pm | #52

            Joe,

            Sorry, dude. I REALLY did not mean to offend you. Being too glib, maybe trying to make a point. My apologies. And I really was trying to understand. Communicating in this manner can be tough ... especially w/ a topic like this ... like instead of having drawings, you have an audio tape telling you how to build it.

            I'm outta here ... let you guys discuss this on your own.

          31. Framer | Sep 22, 2008 11:23pm | #27

            This conversation is really confusing.

            And your drawing did zip to help me understand ... although I'm fairly certain it made sense ... to yourself.

            Your name fits. What's so hard to understand, it's a simple hip roof and the drawing is simple.

             Joe Carola

          32. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 23, 2008 03:16am | #28

            This is how I think of it.  The common that comes off the end of the ridge should be exact same length as all the rest of the commons.

            If the run is the same, the height is the same and the diagonal is the same, then it is the same pitch as the main roof.

            So if we cut rafters minus 1/2 the thickness of the ridge, then the ridge needs to "grow" 1/2 its thickness.  This way ALL commons are exactly the same length.

            Does that help at all?

          33. Jim_Allen | Sep 23, 2008 03:35am | #29

            "So if we cut rafters minus 1/2 the thickness of the ridge, then the ridge needs to "grow" 1/2 its thickness. This way ALL commons are exactly the same length.Does that help at all?"Yes and no.Should that ridge grow 1/2 the thickness on both ends? What if one end is gable?

          34. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 23, 2008 03:46am | #30

            Only on the hipped end and only if we want all the kings to come together a the end of the ridge and the hip fit between them.

             

             

            View Image

            From Shufflebotham's Place

            View Image

            From Shufflebotham's Place

          35. comfun1 | Sep 23, 2008 04:05am | #31

            Let me in on this, I say 14'-11 1/4".  That will be the run of your King Commons, assumming a two by ridge.

          36. User avater
            Heck | Sep 23, 2008 04:11am | #32

            I can see an opportunity here for a model home builder - Instead of paying for new plans for a different house, just hire a different framer.

            Just kidding, folks. 

                   

          37. Framer | Sep 23, 2008 03:15pm | #36

            Let me in on this, I say 14'-11 1/4".  That will be the run of your King Commons, assumming a two by ridge.

            That is the run of your king common because that's the run on your front and back commons and the rest of every single common on the entire roof. There's no mystery here. The side king commons and where the ridge starts has the same run as the common rafter.

            Joe Carola

            Edited 9/23/2008 8:16 am ET by Framer

          38. blownonfuel | Sep 23, 2008 08:23pm | #41

            Tim I think I may have confused some of the people in my o.p. by the way I worded it.Sorry to those. I believe some people are thinking that I am asking how long my rafter should be, I am not. I'm just asking where it should fall in relation to the corners of my end walls. If I have a building span of 30' then the center of the last common rafter should be at 15'. Even if I have a ridge that is 1' thick and rafters that are 8" thick the center of the last common will still be at 15'. Correct?

          39. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 24, 2008 01:55am | #43

            Not it wouldn't if you wanted all your commons the same length.

            It would be 15' minus 1/2 the ridge thickness.  The distance along the plates to the rafter is the same as the adjusted run of the main common rafters.  So if you calculate your rafters as 30' minus the ridge/2 to get the adusted run, then it would be the exact same thing coming in from the end.

            This way you have a 45 degree plan view hip. 

          40. User avater
            jonblakemore | Sep 24, 2008 04:28am | #44

            Here is what you should have with a 30' wide building. 

            Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

          41. blownonfuel | Sep 24, 2008 04:44am | #45

            Thanks Jon. Now what would be my measurement to the center of the last common rafter? You have 14'-11 1/4" from the face of the last common to the corner of the wall. Would it not be 15' to the center?

          42. User avater
            jonblakemore | Sep 24, 2008 04:51am | #46

            Yes, assuming you're using conventional 2x lumber. 

            Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

          43. Jim_Allen | Sep 24, 2008 04:51am | #47

            Yes. That's your third yes to that exact question.

          44. Framer | Sep 24, 2008 01:47pm | #49

            Thanks Jon. Now what would be my measurement to the center of the last common rafter? You have 14'-11 1/4" from the face of the last common to the corner of the wall. Would it not be 15' to the center?

            Did you not believe me when I told you your answer in this post?

            http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=110219.20Joe Carola

          45. weav | Sep 24, 2008 02:22pm | #50

            Joe,everything you said made sense from the first post..... you're too old and too

            good a  framer to have to put up with any depricating posts....for some of us who

            have read your very informative posts in the past,in many different forums,keep up

            the good work...I've been doing construction for 34 years and am still learning.   kweaver

          46. Framer | Sep 25, 2008 02:13am | #54

            Appreciate the kind words.

            I've been doing construction for 34 years and am still learning. 

            I here you.The day I stop learning is the day I die.

             

             Joe Carola

          47. blownonfuel | Sep 24, 2008 03:47pm | #51

            Joe I believed all of you. The point I was trying to make was... never mind.Thanks

          48. Framer | Sep 25, 2008 02:00am | #53

            Joe I believed all of you. The point I was trying to make was... never mind.

            The point you were trying to make was what? Was it that you wanted to know if 15' was to the center of the common? The answer was yes, IF you were using the same size common as the ridge. The answer was no, if you were using a bigger ridge like I showed you in the drawing with a 5-1/2" ridge.

             Joe Carola

          49. blownonfuel | Sep 25, 2008 03:27am | #55

            Joe I guess I still don't understand. I don't understand how ridge thickness affects where the last common falls. I guess there is something i'm just not following. I know you are busy but could you draw up a hip with a 5" ridge and 2x ridge with 2x rafters? Thanks

          50. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 25, 2008 03:36am | #56

            Think of it this way, "The run of your common rafter from the plate to the side of the ridge needs to be the same run for your king off the end of the ridge. 

             

             

          51. Framer | Sep 25, 2008 05:42am | #57

            Joe I guess I still don't understand. I don't understand how ridge thickness affects where the last common falls. I guess there is something i'm just not following. I know you are busy but could you draw up a hip with a 5" ridge and 2x ridge with 2x rafters

            The thickness of the ridge HAS to effect the run because you are deducting half the ridge thickness, therefore the run of the common rafters front to back HAS to be the same coming in from the sides(King Commons) to the first rafter that you're talking about.

            if you have a 4' wide piece of plywood and laid out this hip roof using a 5" ridge, your common rafter run is 4' - 5" = 3'7"/2 = 1' 9-1/2". That is the common and King rafter run. Every single rafter front to back and the two side king common rafters are the same size and have the same run. It has to in order to create a 45° hip.

            I drew this showing you on the left side using a 2x ridge and on the right side using a 5" ridge like you asked. The 5" side I used two king commons to show you how you create an EXACT square where the runs are front to back and on the side.Joe Carola

          52. User avater
            jonblakemore | Sep 24, 2008 04:55am | #48

            Just to clarify-

            "If I have a building span of 30' then the center of the last common rafter should be at 15'. Even if I have a ridge that is 1' thick and rafters that are 8" thick the center of the last common will still be at 15'. Correct?"

            If your ridge is 12" thick and your rafters would start at 14'6" from the outside of the wall plate. The center of the first common rafter would be 14'10" from the outside of the wall plate. 

            Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

          53. User avater
            Heck | Sep 21, 2008 11:39pm | #9

            Close enough. 

                   

  2. Framer | Sep 25, 2008 05:48am | #58

    I shrunk the picture.

     

    Joe Carola
  3. Framer | Sep 25, 2008 06:07am | #59

    I just changed the left side of the drawing using a 12" wide ridge. Look at the exact square the common runs make and where the hip is.

    Joe Carola
    1. blownonfuel | Sep 25, 2008 04:02pm | #60

      Thanks Joe I see it now. Can you give me the formula again? I want to write it down in my notes. I can see where it was not clicking for me. Half the width of the building-half the ridge thickness. What about rafter thickness? Where does that come into play? Thanks again.Edited 9/25/2008 9:09 am ET by blownonfuel

      Edited 9/25/2008 2:28 pm ET by blownonfuel

      1. Framer | Sep 26, 2008 12:45am | #61

        Half the width of the building-half the ridge thickness.

        Yes, that's your rfater run for all commons including the side king commons.

        What about rafter thickness? Where does that come into play?

        Rafter thickness doesn't come into play when it's the same thickness as the ridge, or if the ridge is wider than the rafters. It's comes into play if the rafter is thicker than the ridge, which you won't have to worry about. I've been framing for 25 years now and have never once in my lifetime seen that before.

         Joe Carola

        1. blownonfuel | Sep 26, 2008 01:33am | #62

          Thanks for helping me out Joe and your patience. Joe funny that you should mention about rafters being thicker than the ridge. Take a look at Tim Uhler's pics in this thread, post 31, he has some massive hip rafters and a doubled 2x ridge.

          Edited 9/25/2008 7:01 pm ET by blownonfuel

          1. User avater
            jonblakemore | Sep 26, 2008 03:37am | #63

            The only thing hip rafter affects is how much it weighs and how much load it can carry. Layout is practically unaffected, common rafter is 100% unaffected by hip thickness. 

            Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

          2. blownonfuel | Sep 26, 2008 03:43am | #64

            Interesting. Only the commons and ridge then?

          3. User avater
            jonblakemore | Sep 26, 2008 03:57am | #65

            Here's the thing. It's just a simple square.If the common rafters have a run of 12', the first common rafter will be 144" to the inside face (145-1/2" to the outside face) every time. It doesn't matter what the ridge thickness is.If the common rafters have a run of 16', the first common layout is at 16'.You can substitute any number you want and it will work. All you have to know if the run of the common and you're practically done. 

            Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

          4. blownonfuel | Sep 26, 2008 06:06am | #70

            I got it now Jon. Thanks

          5. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 26, 2008 04:27am | #66

            Take a look at Tim Uhler's pics in this thread, post 31, he has some massive hip rafters and a doubled 2x ridge.

            The engineer spec'd the double 2x12 ridge and 5 1/8" x 12" LVL hips, but we put in 14" deep hips so that the hips would hang lower than the finished ceiling.  Last time we did this house, we used the 12" hip and there was/is some cracking in the drywall.

            If you look here

            View Image

            Lot 30 Muirkirkyou will see that we had single 2x12 ridge, double, triple, glulam and LVL ridges :-)

          6. blownonfuel | Sep 26, 2008 06:08am | #71

            Are the 12" sagging Tim? What is causing the cracking?

          7. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 26, 2008 07:57am | #72

            The cracking was due to the the kitchen, fireplace and it being a cathedral hip.  At least in my opinion.

          8. Framer | Sep 26, 2008 04:34am | #67

            Joe funny that you should mention about rafters being thicker than the ridge. Take a look at Tim Uhler's pics in this thread, post 31, he has some massive hip rafters and a doubled 2x ridge

            I'm talking about th common  rafters being thicker than the ridge when you nail all three king commons like we're talking about. The hips can be any width and not matter. I put up 28' double 1-3/4" x 11-7/8" lvl hips today on one section of the house with a double 1-3/4"x 11-7/8" ridge and double 2x12 hips on another section of the house. Joe Carola

          9. User avater
            Timuhler | Sep 26, 2008 04:36am | #68

            I bet Lil Joey hoisted them himself :-)

             

            Got any pictures?  What have you been up to?  How's work going for you?

          10. blownonfuel | Sep 26, 2008 06:05am | #69

            I got it in my notes now Joe. Thanks

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details
  • A New Approach to Foundations

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data