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Discussion Forum

laundry closet floor

drbgwood | Posted in General Discussion on March 27, 2008 06:44am

I’m getting ready to put my condo on the market, and doing some last minute renovations.  I’m taking the washer and dryer out of the basment (unfinished area which has a separate entrance, not connected to upstairs) and moving them to my upstairs area.  I’ve built a closet to put a stackable washer and dryer in.  got the plumbing hook up and the electrical taken care of.

I don’t think it’s a code requirement since the downstairs is considered un-livable space, but I like the idea of building a floor in the closet that would collect water and have a drain sould anything ever leak.  How serious should a floor like this be?  I’m thinking just laydown a peice of denseshield, use the same to make an 1 1/2 curb, caulk the joints with pl and tile over – with a drain in the middle, which will go to the outside of the house.  It’s not going to be a shower floor, just there in case one day something starts leaking, water wont start pouring out the front door.  Sound like I’m on the right track, or should I be doing the whole morter bed, membrane, morter bed thing?

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  1. User avater
    Mongo | Mar 27, 2008 08:28am | #1

    Do you know about the prefab Floodsaver pans or the Oatey pans?

    They can be installed as simple water pans, or you can add a drainline and run the line to the outside.

    Faster and less expensive than the DIY you;re proposing.

    1. icodeit | Mar 27, 2008 06:10pm | #5

      I'm on process of refinishing my basement.  Currently the washer just sits on the concrete floor.  I have laid a 2x4 and plywood subfloor.  I will be installing a click together laminate floor as my finished floor.

      I want to get one of these pans however I want to use a drainless one (getting the drain my plumber told me would be an issued due to stack and vent etc).

      Just want to know if they hold a good amount of water in case say the drain hose was to pop loose or break.  Basically just want it to protect my finish floor.  I have no issue if this was to happen scooping all the water out of the pan.

      Will the floor pan's work for something like this?

      1. User avater
        Mongo | Mar 27, 2008 07:36pm | #6

        For something like that you'd be better off with something like this from Watts.:

        View Image

        The Watts control senses when your washer is using electrical current, when it is the Watts allows the water valves to be open. When your washer shuts off the Watts closes the supply valves automatically. That'll save you from a burst hose when you're on vacation or at work.

        For increased protection you can get a leak sensor that plugs into that same Watts controller:View Image

        The sensor goes in the pan, and if it detects water in the pan...a leak from the washer, the discharge hose, a burst hose, whatever...it automatically shut off the water supply valves.

        There are other systems that offer similar degrees of protection, so you can shop around. Some are manual on/off valves, some are automatic like the Watts.

        There are single-lever manual valves where you throw a lever and it opens/closes both the hot and cold water supplies. You flip the water on and do laundry. When done turn it off. If you're doing laundry when home the only time the valves will be open is when you're home. You can get an inexpensive "squawk box" that'll buzz or beep when water gets in the pan, that would work well with the manual valve.

        So there are a few options, depending on how much you have to protect from water damage and how much automation you want.

        1. icodeit | Mar 27, 2008 08:28pm | #7

          Thank you for the reply.  That seems a little advanced for what I need but an interesting contraption.  I think I will jsut try and pan.  I don't plan ever to have issues, but ya know you can't plan for everything.

          1. User avater
            Mongo | Mar 27, 2008 11:24pm | #8

            At a minimum I like a valve like this, or its equivalent:

            View Image

            Makes it very easy to turn the water on/off as the machine is put in to use, and making it easy means it'll be used.

      2. drbgwood | Mar 28, 2008 03:31am | #9

        What I was planning to do as far as draining, and I've been on a walk thru with a plumber where we looked at and talked about one already done like this, is to run this drain directly to the outside.  If you put a P trap under the drain and connected it to the DWV system, the water would eventually dry out, opening up the air passage to the sewage.  Running strait outside solves this, and seemed to be alright on the house I looked at.  I'd probably put a screen of some type or a cap that would pop out with slight water pressure over the end of the exiting pipe to keep bugs and such from comming in.

        1. User avater
          Ted W. | Mar 28, 2008 05:04am | #10

          When I installed pans on second floors (did this twice) I just ran the pvc drain line all the way to the utility sink in the basement. No need for a p-trap or anything of the sort.--------------------------------------------------------

          Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com

  2. peteshlagor | Mar 27, 2008 04:40pm | #2

    Sounds like buying a good set of machines would be a lot cheeper and easier.

     

  3. cameraman | Mar 27, 2008 05:51pm | #3

    I have the Floodsaver pan in our 2nd floor laundry, wouldn't do one without it!!!!

    Never had to use it for a water leak, but the trany went out on a 4yr old wash machine, caught all the leaking oil!! Threw a little tide in the plan scrubed it and hosed it away!



    Edited 3/27/2008 10:53 am ET by cameraman

  4. User avater
    Ted W. | Mar 27, 2008 05:57pm | #4

    As Mongo said, there are premade pans for just this purpose. That's your best bet. Thing is you want to make sure and get the thick kind. There are some sold at depot and other big box stores that are thin and flimsy, will crack as soon as you set the machines in them. The better ones are about 1/4" thick, molded plastic. I think you can get them in PVC too.

    --------------------------------------------------------

    Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.net
    See some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com

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