Replies

1. 
   webby | Nov 28, 2009 04:57am | #1

   This is a bump.

   You didn't mention the sub floor material or condition, or room size. Typically they tell you it is best to run perpendicular to the joists, I agree, but  in your case not lot you can do with floor joists running both ways, It seems to me its either or. Whatever looks best in the room.

   Tho other option would be to run it diagonaly in the room. 

   Webby 

    

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   Edited 11/27/2009 9:00 pm ET by webby

   
   

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   Edited 11/27/2009 9:02 pm ET by webby

1. 
   jimgot | Nov 28, 2009 07:44am | #2

   Thanks for replying Webby. Subfloor is 3/4 t&g plywood. 2x10 joists spanning 14ft. one way and 16 ft. the other. The room is 16x21.

1. 
   gordsco | Nov 28, 2009 04:21pm | #3

   Run the flooring in the direction of the beam. 

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Nov 29, 2009 01:40am | #7

   I'm going to disagree and suggest running the flooring at 90 degrees to the direction of the beam.   The reason is that is not uncommon to get floor irregularities at beams where the framing direction changes (often a slight 'hump' along the top of the beam) - I would want the long direction of flooring running over any potential 'hump' area rather than the T&G joint.

   Jeff

1. 
   JDRHI | Nov 29, 2009 09:56pm | #8

   A hump in the framing is a hump in the framing....and if its telegraphing through the flooring, what difference does it make whether the hump is with the run of the flooring or against? It's going to look like #### either way.

   Addressing irregularities in subflooring (or framing) should be done before the floor is installed.

   R.I.P. RAZZMAN

    

    

2. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Nov 30, 2009 03:40am | #10

   I agree - but - a hump is reasonably predictable and it would be less noticeable to have flooring running lengthwise over that area than parallel where t & g joints might be opened up.

    

2. 
   Piffin | Nov 28, 2009 07:51pm | #4

   with that good subfloor and framing it makes no diff structurally.Run it the way that looks the best, typically flowing grain same direction as major source of light coming into the room. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   JDRHI | Nov 28, 2009 09:02pm | #5

   You'll be fine running the flooring in whichever direction you decide. Typically following the direction of the length of the room looks best.

   R.I.P. RAZZMAN

    

    

1. 
   jimgot | Nov 29, 2009 01:32am | #6

   thanks for the info

2. 
   DanH | Nov 29, 2009 09:57pm | #9

   Herringbone.
   This country will not be a permanently good place for any of us to live in unless we make it a reasonably good place for all of us to live in.  --Theodore Roosevelt

1. 
   webby | Nov 30, 2009 04:15am | #11

   True, thanks for catching that, but I wouldnt want the amount of cuts, or the waste.Webby 

    

2. 
   jpeaton | Nov 30, 2009 08:21am | #12

   <with that good subfloor and framing it makes no diff structurally.>

   Would that apply to any wood floor? How about something exceptionally heavy like Ipe'?

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 30, 2009 03:02pm | #14

   You made me pause and consider on that one right in the middle of my first cup of coffee.I don't think it would matter with good subfloor. OSB that had been repeatedly wetted might make me concerned, but if it were that doubtful, it would be time to replace it anyways, because it would also have lost enough integrity to not hold the fasteners well either.IPE~ is heavy for sure, but not that much heavier than oak. If it did make that much difference, you should worry about the whole thing. One typically designs to a 15# dead load and forty pound live load, tho many times the dead load is only 11-13 pounds. Ipe would add a pound or two over oak I think. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Piffin | Nov 30, 2009 02:55pm | #13

   There is something to what you say, but there are other factors to be considered.

   For instance where is the main traffic pattern relative to the beam? A minor 'hump' can be a trip point for some people.
   Of course anything over an eighth inch should be dealt with in shimming or floating anyways to make it disappear.

   Another item to take into consideration is light flow. When running perpendicular to the grain of the finish floor, light amplifies every minor flaw, but running with the grain, it compliments the finish

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   JDRHI | Dec 01, 2009 01:28am | #15

   A hump is reasonably predictable?

   I guess, if attention to detail isn't paid during the framing stage, but I don't build with the mindset that "this is probably going to be F'ed up somewhere down the line, so I'll avoid highlighting by doing such and such".

   That'd be like expecting headers to drop over time so hanging doors an extra inch or so high, so that they still cleared the flooring after the framing failed.

   R.I.P. RAZZMAN

    

    

   
   

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 01, 2009 01:59am | #16

   This is a floor condition where deflection is predictable in two different directions.   The beam (and parallel joists) will deflect in one direction, the perpendicular joists bearing on the beam will deflect in the other direction (at 90 degrees to the beam).  Deflection in the joists perpendicular to the beam tends to kick up the ends that bear on the beam too.   While finish flooring may 'hump' slightly over this condition, flooring parallel to the beam will tend to 'smile' (have joints open up) which is usually more noticeable.

   If you don't think this can cause predictable issues with wood flooring - don't bother paying any attention to it ;o)

   Some examples - http://boards.hgtvpro.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/2601029981/m/4031084852

   http://www.inspectionnews.net/home_inspection/building-interior-home-inspection-commercial-inspection/6445-hump-where-main-support-beam-located.html

   http://twiceremembered.blogspot.com/2009/09/kitchen-floor-surgery.html

    

   Jeff

1. 
   JDRHI | Dec 01, 2009 06:40am | #18

   If you don't think this can cause predictable issues with wood flooring - don't bother paying any attention to it ;o)

   All poor framing will likely result in unsightly finish work. But as stated originally....I address such issues and correct them before applying any such finish surfaces.

   R.I.P. RAZZMAN

    

    

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 01, 2009 02:34pm | #19

   I tend to agree with you. Most common reason for this 'hump' I have seen is where an engineered beam like lam or LVL is used and then solid lumber joists hung to it. The lumber shrinks down while the beam does not so we account for that when framing, but a lot of guys don't.But we have no idea whether this is likely in the OP house so I assume decent framing since he mentions no problem. Jeff is treating a non-existant symptom. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 01, 2009 03:08pm | #20

   YMMV

2. 
   DanH | Dec 01, 2009 02:00am | #17

   I shimmed up the center of my garage door opening more than the sides, to compensate for the sag in the beam. If you look at the houses on the street, ours is the only one where the top of the door opening is straight.
   This country will not be a permanently good place for any of us to live in unless we make it a reasonably good place for all of us to live in.  --Theodore Roosevelt