Replies

1. 
   CloudHidden | Jan 21, 2003 06:35pm | #1

   It's a great idea. Just pressurize the line to 20 or more with air before the pour. Throw a sweeping 90 on the ends and bring 'em up into a wall cavity. And take pix and make measurements so you know where everything is.

1. 
   Forrest | Jan 21, 2003 07:45pm | #5

   Thank you for the reponse. It sounds like I may be working in a heated space!

   GasCap

2. 
   joeh | Jan 21, 2003 06:58pm | #2

   A water heater is all the heat source needed. Joe H

1. 
   BossHog | Jan 21, 2003 07:09pm | #3

   " A water heater is all the heat source needed."

   Don't you need a pump, too? Or do you let it circulate by convection?

   Just curious - Don't know much about these things.Q: What's the major difference between wives and husbands who are trying to have children?A: Wives want to videotape the birth of their child. Husbands want to videotape the conception.

1. 
   joeh | Jan 21, 2003 07:23pm | #4

   Ron, yes a pump and controls are needed, but his question mentioned the price of the heat source as a "Can't afford it now" item. Obviously a water heater is a whole different deal pricewise? Might make it affordable now, rather than later.

   If the Evil Spirits of Prospero are taking a holiday, I know this is in the archives somewhere.

   Joe H

2. 
   Forrest | Jan 21, 2003 07:47pm | #6

   I think I may be able to swing a hot water heater and a pump. Thanks for the info.

   One other question, I have gas in the house, you thinkl it makes sense to have the garage plumbed for gas or will it just be cheaper to put in a electric hot water heater? I only expect to run the heat a couple of weekends a month.

   GasCap

   View Image

1. 
   CloudHidden | Jan 21, 2003 08:44pm | #7

   You'd do well to analyze the heat load before committing to any particular heat source. An electric water heater will provide somewhere near 12,000 btu/h and will cost you something like 19 amps * 220 volts * x hours * y cents/kWH. Using rough math, at .07/kWH, that's 30 cents/hr or > $200/month if run 24/7. And that's for only 12k btu/h. What's your load? Depends on insulation, windows, climate, etc. My point is that if the water heater doesn't supply enough, then even as a cheap solution, it's too expensive. If it does supply enough, and the cost of running it is in the budget, then fine. Better to know all this ahead of time. Regardless, putting the tubing in now at least gives you the options.

1. 
   Forrest | Jan 21, 2003 10:04pm | #10

   Food for thought. You know, I think that I will go back to my orignal idea of putting in the PEX and figuring this out later. The gas meter is only about 10 feet away, so running it to the garage if it is cost effective won't be hard. The only other reason not to go gas that I can think of is having an open flame in the garage.

   GasCap

2. 
   joeh | Jan 21, 2003 08:48pm | #8

   I recently asked about gas vs electric water heaters. The cost of electric heat is many times the expense of gas.

   You will also need to turn your heat on a day or so ahead of the time you want to use the shop. It's not instant heat like forced air, takes awhile to warm the slab, and the ground underneath if you haven't laid foam under the slab.

   There's more to this than you thought?

   You're not gonna leave that bike out in the cold are you?

   Joe H

1. 
   Forrest | Jan 21, 2003 10:08pm | #11

   I had not thought of the foam, but now that I am researching it, it makes sense. The cost is not that great but I could see what a huge diffrence it would make.

   Working on the bike in a unheated garage is miserable. Of course winter is when all the major construction/motorcycle projects get done, so having heat will be worth it.

1. 
   blackcloud | Jan 24, 2003 10:21pm | #13

   Another solution to the insulation is a insultarp (not sure of the trade name) it replaces the vapor barrier and insulation with one easy to use roll out bubble foil.

   JasonIf it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have Any!

2. 
   Catskinner | Feb 02, 2003 08:11pm | #14

   The r-foil (bubble wrap with a reflective surface) definitely works. Speeds up the response time and greatly inproves the performance of hydronic heat in a slab. At about 60 cents a square foot, you can't go wrong.

   Also give some thought to insulating the foundation perimeter. ICF stemwalls would be ideal.

   DRC

3. 
   fredsmart48 | Jan 21, 2003 08:55pm | #9

   I was told HERE using water heater for a heating plant was not code and was not allowed any more.  

   Having said that a lot of people still do it in their garages they install the PEX and cap the lines.  When the building inspector asks they tell them it is for future when they can afford the boiler.  After a month or so in goes the hot water heater and pump.  check valve.  Check Valve is so don't get any back wash from that heater to the domestic water because it will need antifreeze in the system. 

1. 
   Forrest | Jan 21, 2003 10:10pm | #12

   Any idea if it is not code for living spaces or not code at all? I have a final coming up on the HVAC for our new kitchen, I will ask the inspector what he thinks.

   Gascap