FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Layout for installing PT Decking…

Espo | Posted in General Discussion on June 11, 2005 03:56am

Hi All,
I’m about to attach the decking to our new ground-level 16×20 outdoor deck that butts to our house. It will be 1×6 PT decking. The only info I’ve been able to glean about how to install decking from the outside in so that it meets the house squarely was from a H. Depot How To Deck Book. It recommends that you measure in from the outside of the deck to the ledger attached to the house at several points. Then snap a line one board width in from the outside and begin laying decking in towards the house.

My question is, how do you know how wide that last board butting the house is going to be given the differences in decking board widths? I just don’t want to screw all this decking in that have it come out wrong at the house. Any suggestions, guidance, or additions to my “booklearning” are greatly appreciated….

Dave

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. quicksilver | Jun 11, 2005 04:12am | #1

    I don't think you should use 1x6, 5/4 or 2x is a much sounder decision. I'm a carpenter but by no means build decks everyday. I've tried several ways of predicting a full board measurment for a deck without much success. Maybe I'm missing something too. Why did I reply then? I think you should run you decking on a 45 degree diagonal. I think it looks better. It also increases the amount that the deck board bears on the joist.

    1. FastEddie1 | Jun 11, 2005 04:59am | #3

      Running boards on a diagonal also increases the span considerably.  Enough so that it might prevent the use of 5/4 boards.

       I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.

    2. JTC1 | Jun 11, 2005 05:02am | #4

      May be too late as 45 also increases the open span on the decking material, I get the impression this is completely framed.

      Probably be OK with 2x, not with 5/4 by my "local authority"'s standards.

      Jim

      Never unerestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

  2. JTC1 | Jun 11, 2005 04:58am | #2

    See Quicksilver's post re: 5/4 or 2x thickness on decking -- 1x6 is not legal here, 5/4 is minimum and must be on 16" centers.

    Q: "...how do I know .. last plank.... against house...."

    A: You don't when you start fastening.  Lay 3 or 4 courses, measure, adjust gradually if needed. Example: if after 4 courses the left side is 1/8" shorter than the right, correct by laying the next few courses with a little wider gap on the left.  Keep measuring as you go.  We call it "humoring it up".

    Jim

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light. 

     

    1. quicksilver | Jun 11, 2005 05:13am | #5

      Good advice.

    2. Espo | Jun 11, 2005 01:47pm | #9

      Guys, sorry I misspoke: it is 5/4 decking, not 1x6. My main concern was that you'd get up to the house with the decking, then have to install a piece and inch and a half wide or so. Or is that acceptable? I guess it is what it is though...Dave

      1. Schelling | Jun 11, 2005 02:01pm | #11

        It is not acceptable to end up with a small piece at the house. I usually rip the last two boards to split the difference. For instance, in the worst case, you would have 6" left. You would need to rip the last two boards to 3". If you don't like the looks of these narrower boards you can spread this narrowness out over more courses.

        One great advantage of doing this is that you can also lose any uneveness that occurs as you lay the decking down.  If one end has a 7" gap and the other an 8" gap this can be lost in the last two courses without it being noticeable.

        1. User avater
          Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 05:47pm | #16

          " rip the last two boards to 3 inches"

          I see a lot of problem with that...if the 5/4 is on 16's center..I still see a foot breaking that 3" spike knot, right offa the kitchen door.

          Don't ask me how I know that...

          shins bleed more than a hog recently disemboweled.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

          Time, time, time look what's become of us..Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.

  3. Piffin | Jun 11, 2005 05:23am | #6

    Don't use 1x6 PT. You will be wasting your money. The slivers and infections will cost a bundle in medical bills. And you have to use Stainless tsteel fasteners so it doesn't fall apart in a couple of years from the reactions of normal nails and the new copper treated ACQ PT lumber.

    Get Ipe` instead. Ten years from now, you will still be thanking me instead of cursing HD for selling you that crap.

    BTW, did that book also tell you that decks should be built 18" off the ground so airflow can prevent molds and such?
    and did it hint that you need to leave spaces between the deck boards?

    Ther reason that you are reporting uneven widths in the lumber is that it has unequal amts of moiisture. once it stabilizes and drys, it will all be within a sixteenth inch of true to one another. IOW, The size of the gaps will change if the boards sizes vary now.
    The answer to this is to calc what you need to have, say 5-5/8" with board and gap together. Then do a layout, snap lines, and lay to the lines, ignoring the gap sizes now.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. CAGIV | Jun 11, 2005 06:07am | #8

      Where's Snort so we can argue over spacing it *G*

  4. Framer | Jun 11, 2005 05:52am | #7

    When I do a deck the way your doing it I always start from the house with a full board and always wind up with a full board at the end. What I do is with a dropped girder is keep it in about 2' and I leave the joists long, I don't cut the joist to a specific measurement and add the box on first because now your stuck with that measurement.

    I run the decking out just about to the end and measure from the last piece of decking 4" because the 5/4 x 6 measures 5-1/2". That 4" mark is where I cut the joists and then I add my 2x box which will give me 5-1/2" which allows me to have a full board all the time at the end. Doing it that way you can't make a mistake and you'll always have a full board no matter what size decking you use and there's no trying to figure anything out.

    Joe Carola
    1. Espo | Jun 11, 2005 01:54pm | #10

      Framer,
      What a great solution! Thanks for taking the guesswork out of this part of the project - no ripped down decking!And thanks all for your help here.Dave

      1. Framer | Jun 12, 2005 04:24pm | #13

        Any time Dave. Next deck you do try it that way.Joe Carola

    2. User avater
      jonblakemore | Jun 11, 2005 08:48pm | #12

      Joe,That's exactly how we do it. Saves a lot of time and makes for a sharp looking installation with no ripped boards. 

      Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

      1. Framer | Jun 12, 2005 04:30pm | #14

        "That's exactly how we do it. Saves a lot of time and makes for a sharp looking installation with no ripped boards"I agree with you. I always snap a line for the first board and then go from there and checking with a line as I go and making sure the last board before I cut the joist is straight with my line so it even with the box once I've cut the joists and nail the box on.Joe Carola

        1. Piffin | Jun 12, 2005 04:53pm | #15

          I've never thought of that. Probably 'cause most of our decks runn the decks perpendicular to the house to lead warter away, but I'll remeber that one. 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. User avater
            Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 05:56pm | #17

            I just added a small porch off the west side for the grill to live on. I have advantech slapped on for the time being..LOL

            Anyway, my current cost for Ipe is 2.85 a LF for S4S RE 3/4" 100% clear.

            Is that close to what yours may cost?

            I was thinking it is the "supply/demand" factor, or shipping costs that may make it a rollie coaster of an investment.  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Time, time, time look what's become of us..Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.

          2. Piffin | Jun 12, 2005 06:42pm | #18

            Wowser!I have been paying 1.15/LF on 1x4s for three or four years now 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. User avater
            Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 07:02pm | #19

            I didn't see any 1x4....is that a T&G?

            That might be cool..

            dang it now I gotta do some math..drive to the Alantic ocean for Ipe at a good cost?  Or just bite the bullet...(G)  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Insert your favorite George Harrison song  HERE.

          4. Piffin | Jun 12, 2005 07:14pm | #20

            Square stock 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          5. User avater
            Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 07:26pm | #21

            Yeah, I love the stuff. I saw in your pic tho' that the edges were radiused..you router the decking too?

            I often have re -radiuoused ( huh?) the edges of PTSYP, to try for a "good" appearance..I failed miserably.

            Once I got into the swing of things with installing and dealing with Ipe..I can't see why it is not even more exploited..  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Insert your favorite George Harrison song  HERE.

          6. Piffin | Jun 12, 2005 07:47pm | #22

            It comes wiht that eased edgeI see yours is 3/4" too. is it 1x6? or something else? Is it generic Ipe` or marketed under the name ironwoods. That could account for extra cost of marketing and branding. Also, milling is hard and expensive, so addinga T&G edge would definitely run the cost up, but I think I had it priced once at about $1.45/LF for 1x4. Of course that would also reduce coverage rates 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          7. User avater
            Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 08:00pm | #23

            I see yours is 3/4" too. is it 1x6? or something else?

            Wait, ya lost me..isn't 3/4 still 3/4?  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Insert your favorite George Harrison song  HERE.

          8. Piffin | Jun 12, 2005 09:07pm | #24

            you said you never see 1x4, so it it 1x6, 1 x 8, 1x10????? 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          9. User avater
            Sphere | Jun 12, 2005 09:12pm | #25

            Actual dim. is 3/4 x 5 and 1/2...I'd die to see a 1x10 or so...  Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Insert your favorite George Harrison song  HERE.

          10. User avater
            DDay | Jun 12, 2005 09:22pm | #26

            Last one I did was 1x6 Ipe at $1.60/ft.  I live in Mass and Piffin lives in ME and a big distributor of Ipe, Coastal something is right between us, in NH.  That might keep the prices lower for us.

            The supplier I use also has Ipe railing, balusters, 2x8, 2x10, 4x4, 6x6, etc.  They told me one time that a few decking crews will do the whole deck, framing, rails, surface, with Ipe.  Waste of money and weighs a bloody ton, but whatever.

            Edited 6/12/2005 2:27 pm ET by DDay

  5. Framer | Jun 13, 2005 07:54am | #27

    Ben,

    You'll like it once you've done it. Just make sure you keep checking the rows with a chalk line so when you get to the end and cut your beams and add the box your last piece of decking is nice and straight with the box.

    Joe Carola

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Pros of Apprenticeship Programs

Apprenticeship programs can be a valuable tool for residential builders to recruit, train, and retain skilled employees, offering a structured pathway for career advancement and equity in the trades.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done
  • An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings
  • Beat the Heat: Cool Innovations
  • A Practical Approach to Exterior Insulation

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data