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Hi,
I am attempting to layout the outer walls of a building using 12 x 8 x 16 concrete block. anyone know how you get the pattern from one course to the next so the blocks bridge the ones below on center of the mortar joint? a straight wall is no problem, but as soon as you turn the corner everything goes to pot because of the 12″ block width. 8 x 8 x 16 blocks fall together, but i must be brain dead because i cannot seem to understand how its done with the wider 12 x 8 x 16 without stuffing 2″, 4″ or 8″ filler blocks in. since i want continuous lengths of rebar running up the block cavities the block cutouts must line up. also, when topping off the wall using knockout bond beam blocks is there much risk of breaking a block while removing the knockouts after the blocks are mortared in place? any tribal knowledge or a web site to get such knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Replies
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Dodge, You use what are called L-Corners....The outer part of the corner block is only 8" wide. I don't know what you are referring to with the knockout bond beam blocks. We don't knock anything out.
*G.LaLonde - the cavity dividers in the bond beam knockout blocks are slit on each side so they can be knocked out to lay in horizontal rebar. now your vertical rebar coming up thru your wall can be tied to horizonal rebar set in the bond beam.
*G.LaLonde - the cavity dividers in the bond beam knockout blocks are slit on each side so they can be knocked out to lay in horizontal rebar. now your vertical rebar coming up thru your wall can be tied to horizonal rebar set in the bond beam.
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This may be regional, but in So. Cal. bond beam blocks come with the dividers already removed, so you don't have to knock them out.
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Ours too Mike.........Must be the way different block manufacturers make them.
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I can't understand why people are still using mortar between concrete blocks when surface bonding makes the connections and stability of the wall many times stronger.
*In California all block work is grouted solid. So the mortar just levels the blocks, keeps the layout right and holds them until the grout is placed. 12" blocks are heavy duty structural and I would expect them to be grouted. Mortarless blocks are available but only in limited configurations.
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Try offsetting your corner block by the 4" to get your cells to line up, then mortar in a filler. May save some bucks on a specialty block. My experience on bond beam block is to knock out the middle before laying otherwise you may crack the mortar joint it sits in.
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Hi,
I am attempting to layout the outer walls of a building using 12 x 8 x 16 concrete block. anyone know how you get the pattern from one course to the next so the blocks bridge the ones below on center of the mortar joint? a straight wall is no problem, but as soon as you turn the corner everything goes to pot because of the 12" block width. 8 x 8 x 16 blocks fall together, but i must be brain dead because i cannot seem to understand how its done with the wider 12 x 8 x 16 without stuffing 2", 4" or 8" filler blocks in. since i want continuous lengths of rebar running up the block cavities the block cutouts must line up. also, when topping off the wall using knockout bond beam blocks is there much risk of breaking a block while removing the knockouts after the blocks are mortared in place? any tribal knowledge or a web site to get such knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
thanks in advance.