Replies

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Jul 17, 2007 08:46am | #1

   Might have to  hinge old leaded section to  frame extentions on new windows--there is now about 12" of window well...

   Do you mean that the wall is 12" thick?  If so, you could arrange things so that the new windows swing out, and the old ones swing in.  I've done something like that in the past, and it actually turned out looking very nice.

   Another suggestion I can give you is to have the leaded panels sandwiched between two layers of glass.  You almost end up with a triple-pane window, and the perimeter is sealed with some sort of sealant (one of the leaded glass shops in my area offers this service).

   The three-layer glass sandwich is pretty thick and heavy, of course.  However, if you find a manufacturer that can make you a 1-3/4" thick sash, you should have enough room for both the thick glass unit and some decent-looking sticking.  Keep in mind that the mansions from the same period as your client's windows often had 1-3/4" thick sash (as opposed to 1-3/8" for common work).

   From a practical perspective, I just don't know how long the triple-pane approach would hold up in terms of failed seals and condensation issues.  Going with the two window approach would alleviate any of those eventual problems.

   Hope that gives you some ideas.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Jul 17, 2007 04:06pm | #2

   I had a similar problem years ago. I solved it by getting some lead tape from a stained glass supplier. It looks just like the lead cames in old SG windows, but is adhesive-backed and it sticks onto glass like tape. It's a bit of a bear to get straight, but do-able.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jul 17, 2007 05:20pm | #4

   MikeOn TOH they have a project several years ago in CA. It was an Craftsman style house and they did that on the doors.They actually soldered the lead joints when it was installed on the glass and then used a patination chemical.Did you do any of that?BTW Rocklers sells a lead tape. Don't know if it can be soldered not not.http://tinyurl.com/2tmkju.
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jul 17, 2007 05:37pm | #6

   Nope - nothing so complex. The stuff actually looked pretty good without soldering -- couldn't tell the difference from a distance -- and lead ages pretty quickly without any need for chemicals. I've done that for real stained glass, tho'. Did some nice doors for some craftsman built-ins a few years ago using foil tape and solder to do the seams. I used the patina solution on those 'cause I used lead-free solder to do the joints -- I'm already stupid enough without inhaling lead fumes! ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   Ragnar17 | Jul 17, 2007 07:41pm | #7

   Mike,

   The lead tape idea works for some clients, but not for others.  The tape can look good from a distance, but it is not exactly the same thing, and for some clients it's a noticeable difference they don't like.  It just depends on how sensitive they are to the original work I suppose.

   The same "picky" clients usually like the minor defects in the original rolled glass, too, and find float glass a little less desirable.

   Finally, I suppose a lot depends on the existing leaded glass panels.  If they have colored art glass, curves, or are somewhat elaborate, it may not be possible to imitate them with the tape.

   But it's a good suggestion, and maybe it will work for the OP's client.

1. 
   gatno | Jul 18, 2007 04:56am | #8

   tanx fer all o this, guys.  I drove thru a lot of the neighbourhood today, checking out leaded windows (more than i realized in this island park civic hosp. area) and didn't  see any really good solution (and these are homes in the 750 thou range)  The best looking places are still using the old swing-out casements, with hinged screens on the inside.  With new casements at 300$ a pop (yeah, yeah, Cdn.), each hole would end up at 700 to 800$ each, countin g redoing stained/varnished trim, etc.  I'll probably end up with slim-profile low-e thermo's, just set into the existing window frames (yeah, they are 1 3/4 thick).  New hinges, better fit, breather-holes a la Pella,to reduce condensation, and new screens hinged inside as necessary. (woulda had to open hinged leaded units inside to operate new casements anyway..). Should end up a helluva lot cheaper, and i think r-value should be ok.

   again, thanks for the input

3. 
   DanH | Jul 17, 2007 05:19pm | #3

   Generally when this is done in churches, etc, the old window is mated to the inside of the new window (sometimes with an additional clear piece on the inside), with the window frames/sashes being purpose-made for the thicker cross-section.

   In your case, I think it would make most sense to apply them more or less like shutters to the inside of the window openings -- some scheme where they could be opened or moved aside to open the windows. Precisely what scheme to use would depend on the geometries involved.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
4. 
   DanH | Jul 17, 2007 05:23pm | #5

   BTW, you say they're "suited" to the house -- does this mean when viewed from the inside or the outside? Which view is more important to preserve?

   If they suit the inside, another option is to work them into cabinetry or some such.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin