Replies

1. 
   Gabe | Apr 12, 2002 11:57pm | #1

   TW,

   How to leak proof your shower seat.

   Don't drink any liquids before going to bed at night.

   That was too hard to resist.

   The best way is to use an independent stainless steel short stool with heavy rubber protectors on the legs.

   Unless it's planned for ahead, during the construction phase, it's hard to install an add-on that will stand the rigors of daily use. Ours are always done in masonry first so we don't have the same headaches as the residential guys do.

   You failed to indicate what kind of backing or construction you used to build this seat in so it's hard to give advice on protecting/sealing the joints etc.

   Gabe

1. 
   TimWF | Apr 13, 2002 01:56am | #2

   The shower frame was re-built and I am using pressure treated wood. The  frame for the seat has already been built into the shower frame.

1. 
   Gabe | Apr 13, 2002 02:03am | #3

   Am I to assume that you have covered that "pressure treated wood" with cement board?

   Gabe

2. 
   user-57970 | Apr 13, 2002 02:27am | #4

   On a recent job we used a European shower seat - plastic and stainless steel - that bolts onto the wall and can be folded away.  Works well and no problems with water penetration.   Derek

3. 
   Scooter1 | Apr 15, 2002 03:46am | #5

   Man, I thought I replied to this post, and for the life of me, I can't find my post!!! Did I reply to this TW? If so, why can't I read my own posting??? Grrrr. This board stinks.

   Basically, there are two ways to waterproof a shower seat. A really bad way that will probably fail, and a good way.

   Here is is the bad way, which is followed by most of the trades. Build your shower seat out of wood. Cover it with CBU's and tape and mud them as usual. Then apply a waterproofing membrane like a Laticrete 9235 or a Mer-Crete 2000.

   This membrane is an awfull sticky mess. First you spread the latex liquid part, which is thick black and sticky. You will get it everywhere. Then, with your hands, press a polyester fabric into the liquid before it has set up (about 10 minutes) and roll or trowel it into the liquid. Then apply a second coat of the latex liquid over the membrane. After it has set up, but before it is dry, then apply a third or even a fourth coat. The membrane should bridge the joint between the seat and the wall CBU's and the pan by about 3-4 inches.

   The problem with this method is that it depends on the product's characteristics, and your skill at applying it. My prediction is that it will fail.

   The best way is to rip out your wooden seat, and start over. Build out your shower walls as if there were no seat, and hold up the CBU's about 1/4" above the pan membrane. Then build the seat out of concrete block and place it right on the naked shower pan membrane (the PVC or CPE), then attach some 2.4 lb lathe and float a layer of wall mud over the whole seat. Forget the waterproofing unless you want to bullet proof the whole shower. Some of us tile guys do waterproof the walls with our without the seat.

   Install your setting bed as usual over the pan.

   When the seat gets wet, the water goes down the seat onto the tile and down the drain. If any gets behind the seat or through the seat, it ends up on the pan membrane, where the slope will take it to the drain and out the weep holes.

   I learned this trick from Tile Master, John Bridges, who has his own web site. He is affectionately called the "Mud Mesiter".

   Regards,

   Boris

   "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927