leaks at tub and tile interface, take 2
On Aug. 6th, I posted a query about the cause of leaks at my tub/tile interface, which has caused continuing problems with mold. I believe that the unsealed grout has been the cause of the problem, as several people have mentioned. I have opened the wall in the adjoining bedroom and can check if leaks occur. We have sealed the grout several times with a product recommended by our local tile shop. The problem is that some areas continue to absorb the sealer and still leak when the shower is on. This is not true for other areas of the tile. The area that seems to leak most and that absorbs the grout is around a niche, a highly suspicious event. But there is felt paper under the sealed wonderboard substrate, and slope was built in at the bottom of the niche. When water hits the grout (medium gray), it turns dark. But that does not happen elsewhere. Should we add more coats of sealant (the tile shop says that’s unnecessary)? Should I use my little grout saw to remove the grout in the worst spots and regrout them? Or am I screwed and the only cure is to demo the tile and start over? It’s our only bathroom.
Replies
Bill, you have me thinking again, which I thought impossible. If the grout is sealed and yet a certain area turns dark grey with apparent moisture, could that moisture not be coming from the back (between tile/cement board)? Are there any penetrations near that niche like the shower head or diverter?
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
That's an interesting idea, though scary, since I probably would have to demo the tiles in that area, and God knows what will happen with the waterproofing around the niche. I smell mission creep. Where would I stop? There is no fixture on that wall or near the niche. Thanks for your input once again. You may well be correct, but I'm still hoping that I won't have to demo the whole wall.
Bill,
Did you mix the grout with water?
Can you get the same color grout and mix it with a liquid latex mortor additive instead of water, and then add sealer to the top of that?
If that doesn't work then the water is getting through else where.
BE well
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Thanks for your input, Andy. It was a long time ago, but I believe I mixed some additive with the grout. I still have enough grout (Delorean Gray!) left to do the problem section, and I may be able to get some more, since my local tile shop still carries the sanded caulk that matches the grout color. Are you suggesting that I remove the grout in the problem area and start fresh with grout mixed only with the additive? I certainly have been considering that, however I'm not sure how completely the diamond handheld grout "saw" will work. Being a tool freak, I have one that I've never used. ( I heard the oft-quoted expression, "He who dies with the most toys wins." But I thought they said "tools.") When I did the original grouting, the grout dried in a somewhat mottled fashion. I was subsequently told by a tiler that you need to dry mix grey grout because it is a combo of many diferent colors, reds, greens, yellows, etc. It's the best explanation I've heard, but then a simpleton carpenter like me can be easily sucked in by analyses like that. Happy trails. Bill
Bill
Yep...thats what I'm suggesting.
Just be sure its "non sanded" grout, but then again I'm sure you already knew that.
Be well
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
What do you think is the advantage of non-sanded grout? I'm a dumb woodbutcher and did not know why I should use it. What about it matching the grout in the areas that don't leak? Whoops, I see what you mean: remove all the old grout, no? There goes a couple of weekends. The joy of home ownership never ends.
non sanded grout is for walls or small grout lines.
I only suggested removing the grout and regrouting with "non sanded grout" with a liquid latex additive because it's be a whole lot easier than removing all the tile and redoing it.
It shouldnt take you more than a few hours with the right tool.
Be well
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Bill, what size grout joints do you have?? What type grout did you use- sanded vs non sanded. best of luck on this one. Jim J
The sanded grout was laid into 1/8" joints between the tiles.
Better to use caulk there.
You could try digging out the grout, and caulking the joint.
I re-did my shower 18 months ago and used caulk at the tile/tub interface. No problems yet. Just have to clean it periodically to keep the fungus growth down. Growth seems to appear faster on the caulk. I'm not sure if that's a function of the caulk or just that that area stays wet longer. Maybe somene on this board can answer that?
I think it is the location. Last to dry. At least the caulk is not absorbant, like the grout is (to some extent). Some of these 'mildew resistant' caulks seem to work well.
Much of this has to do with whether the area ever dries. Ventilation, usage patterns, and such..
I have caulked that joint (with marine caulk this time).