I have read many of your comments but have never ventured into the realm of participation, thus in my Soliticitation for advice, I cross to the other side.
Problem, Pella sliders on a house built in 93 leaking, P is no help even though the sliders were replaced for some unknown reason about 5 years ago. House has been owned by me for about a year and although there were signs of a leak I had not seen it until a few weeks back. The house is 3 stories with each floor having a window the slider and then another window opening onto a deck stacked. The leak has affected the plywood on the top floor on the stationary slider side jamb and the header below on the second floor and on this last ocasion the water ran via the drywall joints at the second floor ceiling. There is a half circle window above the top floor slider. The house is in a coastal climate. The caulk appears ok and the house was painted about 2 years back and shows now signs of cracking. . .
Any advice prior to digging in.
Edited 10/23/2005 10:55 pm ET by leakyslider
Replies
OK so no takers on my leaky slider, I've been sitting her waiting for hours (not really) to see if anyone had such a problem and what they had done or. . .
I the area this place is, flashing was not an important factor during the building inspection process of the era
flashing was not an important factor during the building inspection process of the era
If the area is dry now and you could see new moisture intrusion:
If it is possible to isolate the area below the slider and shield it from water getting under the bottom of the threshold (putting a plastic drop under, sealed at the sides to the siding-drape the plastic over the deck. With a hose, flood the area on top of the threshold / door connection, work your way up the division of the active/passive door. This should tell you if the unit itself is the cause for the leak.
Wait a day and move the plastic to cover the doors themselves, start flooding the area at the bottom on both sides of the unit. Again, look for moisture. This should suggest if the problem is in the install.
flashing was not an important factor during the building inspection process of the era
Or, remove the units and re-install, knowing the problem is probably in the setting of them originally. These doors units come assembled (not probably any round top windows above) and I've never had a leaking pella slider. Have repaired a couple with just caulk as the flashing. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks, the sliding doors are 3 1/2 inches above the deck and have a azek kick board below, they were replaced by Pella about 5 years ago but I cannot find out why, the house is Hardiplank, the 1/2 round window is about 2 feet above the slider in a cathedral type setup. I will try the hose and plastic method this weekend as I expect it will be tested the next few days as Wilma passes by.
During the time these units were built flashing was not looked at like it should have been by the inspectors (not that they aren't overburdened sometimes) but we all know how important properly installed flashing is.
Edited 10/24/2005 9:36 pm ET by leakyslider
OK to all of you that took part in my past discussions about my leaky slider . . .THANKS
Here's what I found, as many anticipated. The actual leak (3rd floor) is coming from the bottom of the stationary panel side jamb where it meets the threshold. The Pella Sliding doors have a date code of 1-00 and all other windows in the house are 3-03, so something had been done with the sliders in oo. The scissor joist below and plywood on the outside of it (OSB) need repair as does the top plates, cripples, headers and jacks of the slider below on the 2nd floor. Flashing is substandard as a secondary cause.
Good news (if that is possible) is that I can repair the scissor joist from the inside and leave the deck in place. . . .and at least I will know how things are flashed and how the doors are set at two of the openings. I'm taking pics along the way as well. My next moniker may be "FLASHER".
I'll throw an idea at you...if these are not doors, but windows, Pella hasn't made sliders in quite some time. You may have double hungs installed sideways. I had a complaint on some vinyls once where the contractor had bought DH's and installed them as sliders. If you're talking doors, the installation is faulty and you'll have to remove the siding to see where the leak is coming from. Sorry.
I know how it is waiting for someone to respond with "the answer"... Really, this is more of just a "bump" than "the" answer. Sorry, but I find your text a bit hard to decipher. First, I'm guessing you mean sliding doors - not sliding windows... Secondly, is there any way that you can tell if the window/door weather strip is what is leaking as opposed to the exterior of the perimeter of the entire unit? Also, you mention a half round window at the top of all this. Could this be the sole source of the leakage? Half round windows tend to be more challenging in terms of flashing. Also, what is the exterior cladding of the house? Cement board siding? brick? board and batten? Cedar clapboards? I'm guessing it is not vinyl since you mention paint and caulking.
In the case of doors, a common place for leakage is under the threshold, especially if there is a deck that is right up the level of the threshold (as opposed to down a few inches).
Another thought: I wonder if a moisture meter might be a good, minimally intrusive way to find out how high in the structure the water infiltration is occurring.
Moisture meter is a good suggestion however I feel that there will be some azek, hardiplank, and some pella's being yanked, any favorites for a possible Pella sliding door replacement if I can't get parts. Thes babies are aluminum clad on the outside and wood on the inside. Thanks for your help.
Dig in.
You have to dig in to find the leak.
I'm betting that you won't like what you find.
blue
You devil you, deep down I know I will have to peel and look but I was looking for someone that may have had this same problem . . .I'm hoping that the decks don't have to come off and that the bands are intact but I'm not betting on it. I won't be surprised to find no flashing. I still can't figure why Pella pulled thes units 5 years back and replaced them (I cant find anyone that will come clean) but the date codes on the windows do not correspond with the sliding doors (windows 93, sliding door 99 or 01 I cant't remember). The pella guy says they never replaced anything but a neighbor says they did and the dates say they did. . . Thanks for the advice.
Best of luck.
The pella dist. here keep excellent records according to address. A shame they can't tell you the reason. I think they have a guar. labor 3 yrs, parts at least 10, glass............no memory there. I can't think of a part they wouldn't still have available. The units themselves shouldn't leak (shouldn't) as they are all preassembled at the factory. The refuse to ship them knockdown (did a long time ago) as they couldn't trust the assemblers in the field to properly do it.
Anderson makes good units. Pay special heed to the assembly and caulk instructions.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Everybody keeps emphasizing that the most common reason for a unit like this to leak is that it was not caulked at the bottom when set in, while leaky keeps emphasizing the suspicion that he has no flashing. Could be either, but Blue had the answer, he will only know when he takes things apart, right?That is, unless Pella had a bad one.I lean towards thinking there was no caulk und threshld
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Eventho a metal pan or one fabbed out of vycor or similar is talked about regularly I don't know that any of the major companies require it in their installation manuals. As it is now, most show the vycor detail around the perimeter. I'd say most of the single door replacements (single or patio style) I do show evidence of yrs of water entry at the corners (from jamb / threshold leak) . Even those set in cheap caulk in an attempt at a good install usually fail after a time when the caulk hardens and merely channels the water.
I did have one I found that the water started at a roof/sidewall detail a couple feet to the side of the door. You guess right that it was a vinyl sided house.
Another reason to not try to match the price of the 165.00 install.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
These are a Pella unit leaking at the seal between glass and rail.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Luckily I've never had that problem with Pella's. Damn, are we doomed with more shoddy workmanship? Was this a new install?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
brand new. Happened on two units. Replaced one but only discovered this after the other was replaced so I got to get a good photo of four to send them for the 'nother replacement.The service rep told me, "We'll replace it with ####brand new one if that's what you want but chances are 50/50 that it could leak too, or I can use this tube of caulk..."not really a good rep, eh?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Wow, worth a letter to Iowa.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I wouldn't rat him out to his supperiors. I appreciated his candid reply. It is the company that I have issue with.BTW, their sales rep - a different guy- was responsible for most of the glitchesI had - I caught most ahead of time - and he was a thorn in the flesh - he has now left Pella and is working at my main supplies, in windows and doors. This oughta be fun.Actually, I've gone almost entirely to Marvin now and a diff supplier who knows the product line extensively.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Good guaranteed (timely) product and service is the name of the game, and I don't need to tell you that.
Am repairing (have repaired) alot of Marvin's = '83 wood casements with BM. Rot in the corners of the jambs and a couple bottom corners of sash. All the sash weatherstrip on all the windows in the house, 4 operators and lube all the rest.
1700 bucks.
Very nice people.
Nothing is forever. Amazing tho how all the sash weatherstrip just decomposed. Except for a couple pcs on a couple sash. The rest of the problems due to lack of maintainance/those leaking initial ws which allowed the water to collect and sit.
Best of luck.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time