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LED lighting Retrofit

johndrew | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 31, 2013 02:40am

I put a ceiling fan in a bedroom but there isn’t enough light. I see where there are retrofit LED lights which just clip to the drywall

ceiling. But some don’t recommend if you have insulation. Duh who doesn’t have insulation.

What do you recommend to light a 14×14 with a -8foot ceiling?  How difficult is it to install can lights now?  How close to an outside wall corner do you recommend. The space gets tight because of the roof slop.

1. Retro fit vs can

2. Wattage

3. Size 4-5-6 

4 How many

 

Recommendations for a dimmer

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Replies

  1. albion10 | Jan 01, 2014 12:33pm | #1

    fan one bulb light or 4?

    Howdy, consider first briighter bulbs in the ceiling fan . If one bulb consider an easy upgrade to 4 . When adding more light fixtures in existing ceiling first consider a plug in lamp or two way cheaper..

    So how darn bright do you want it? there is easy computations for watts per sqft. So many builders  just throw in a bunch an result is too intensive of lighting. 

    Which way do the ceiling rafters run or how torn up do you want your ceiling for running new additional wiring?   How much load is on the circuit already? so many little details ...

  2. johndrew | Jan 01, 2014 02:32pm | #2

    I went to an elictrical supply and they suggested 4ea 11 watt led  800 lumens  SATCO S8993. This is a  6"  warm color 3000 K which goes in a canister.  The canister sits on top of the drywall and attaches to the ceiling joist. It has adjustable brackets which allow you to place it anywhere between the joist thus allowing you placement almost anywhere except where the joist is.

    He said because of the low wattage (11w) 14-2 wire would handle the current load. The  rim trim is about a 1/2 wider than the hole so it will cover any slight cutting problems.

    He said to find the ceiling joist then  push a clothes hanger wire through the ceiling where I wanted the lights allowing a few inches for the canister if near the joist.

    Due to the roof slop 30 inches is about as close to the outside wall as one would want it to allow for easy installation. The other inside corners are easy to get to.

    He suggested a SATCO Lutron  L.C. on/off Dimmer. 96/101  The complete total cost of the 4 units(canister, trim and bulb)  and 50 ft 14-2 wire and dimmer  time was about $200.

    Tools

    1. Battery Drill with bit

    2. Drywall Screws

    3 Ruler ( The canister is 6 1/4 outside so I measured 3 1/8 from the clothes hanger in 4 directions to align it.

    4. Something to kneel on, I used  scrap plywood  and used knee pads

    5. Air Mask (keep insulation out of your nose)

    6. Light

    7 Drywall knife( strip outside wire insulation)

    8 Wire Stripers

    9. Wire nuts

    10. Electrical Tape

    11. Find the light switch wire and turn off electricity to the light.

    12 There will be some drywall material falling when you cut out the hole.

  3. johndrew | Jan 01, 2014 02:32pm | #3

    I went to an elictrical supply and they suggested 4ea 11 watt led  800 lumens  SATCO S8993. This is a  6"  warm color 3000 K which goes in a canister.  The canister sits on top of the drywall and attaches to the ceiling joist. It has adjustable brackets which allow you to place it anywhere between the joist thus allowing you placement almost anywhere except where the joist is.

    He said because of the low wattage (11w) 14-2 wire would handle the current load. The  rim trim is about a 1/2 wider than the hole so it will cover any slight cutting problems.

    He said to find the ceiling joist then  push a clothes hanger wire through the ceiling where I wanted the lights allowing a few inches for the canister if near the joist.

    Due to the roof slop 30 inches is about as close to the outside wall as one would want it to allow for easy installation. The other inside corners are easy to get to.

    He suggested a SATCO Lutron  L.C. on/off Dimmer. 96/101  The complete total cost of the 4 units(canister, trim and bulb)  and 50 ft 14-2 wire and dimmer  time was about $200.

    Tools

    1. Battery Drill with bit

    2. Drywall Screws

    3 Ruler ( The canister is 6 1/4 outside so I measured 3 1/8 from the clothes hanger in 4 directions to align it.

    4. Something to kneel on, I used  scrap plywood  and used knee pads

    5. Air Mask (keep insulation out of your nose)

    6. Light

    7 Drywall knife( strip outside wire insulation)

    8 Wire Stripers

    9. Wire nuts

    10. Electrical Tape

    11. Find the light switch wire and turn off electricity to the light.

    12 There will be some drywall material falling when you cut out the hole.

    1. DanH | Jan 01, 2014 03:08pm | #4

      How are you planning to make the cutouts?  In any event, make yourself a cardboard template for the cutout.

      1. johndrew | Jan 01, 2014 09:32pm | #5

        Thanks for the suggestion. Great idea since I will be installing 4 of them now. I still have not came up with a good method of cutting the hole without a lot of dry wall dust and material.  Rotozip, sabersaw, keyhole saw I see where there are some on Amazon for less than $10 but reviews are not too good.

        1. DanH | Jan 01, 2014 10:28pm | #6

          There is a hole saw of sorts you can buy for installing cans.  Would work best from below.  And I'm not sure if the expense is worth it for only 4 holes.

        2. calvin | Jan 02, 2014 12:23pm | #7

          John

          A drywall jab saw is best-no big dust problem except for what falls straight down.  Simplify and use a drop-no need to make this complicated.

          And, no need for a can with hanger bars-get remodel cans and make sure they're insulation contact rated and Airtite cans.

          With luck-you can do all the cans from below-cut the holes, wire goes from hole to hole (can/can) and make up the connection to your switch.  To do it right and to tidy it up-go above and fasten the wires to the joists.

          4 cans are plenty. 

  4. User avater
    Mongo | Jan 02, 2014 03:00pm | #8

    Exactly what Calvin wrote...

    This is "old work" (existing construction) so I don't know why they are recommending you use "new work" can lights with joist hangers.

    You can get 4" -  6" cans for $10-$15 each at the box stores. Look for "insulation contact" and "air tight" rated cans. "ICAT". Some folks get frustrated with the retaining clips that latch the can to the ceiling drywall. Play with them a bit before you install the can, and once in place use a screwdriver to set the clip. For the life of me I can't figure out why so many people have trouble with the clips, but they do.

    View Image

    I've pretty much completely retrofit my house with LEDs over the past couple of years. In my ceiling cans I installed CREE lights into the old cans. Easy to do, and the light is ridiculously good, even in the working area of our kitchen. These go on sale every few months for $20 each:

    View Image

    Locate the ceiling joists so you don't hit them.

    Mark and cut your holes.

    Run the wire, let it hang through the holes and into the living space.

    Then do all the wiring from the living space and once wired up, set the cans into the holes and clip them in place.

  5. User avater
    Mongo | Jan 10, 2014 12:34am | #9

    can you daisy chain them together?

    Just for clarity...

    If the lights will be on one circuit, you can cut the holes, then have a wire go from hole #1 to hole #2. Cut the romex so it hangs out of each hole and below the ceiling by about a foot. The next wire goes from hole #2 to hole #3. Cut it. The next wire from hole #3 to hole #4. Cut it. And so on.

    With all that wire dangling, then you can wire up the cans while standing on a ladder in your living space. Wire them up, then tuck the light up into the hole and secure it with the clips. 

    The last wire will go from hole #4 and I'd guess be wired into the lighting circuit via a conection made in a junction box up in the attic that connects to the switch or to another light in the switched circuit. That last connection will be the only one that needs to be made while up in the attic.

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